fendervg

As above - great diagram. The current coming in from the headlight switch (this will be the old main beam cable, which is one of the reasons why these are needed as the current goes through the stalk and the headlight switch) will open the relay to send current direct from the battery to the headlight. Will 9v be enough to trigger the relay?

I think I saw this on FB if you posted there too - dim dip resistor disconnected is correct if you have an uprated loom. Could be a relay failure, most decent looms keep the OEM plugs intact (if not they will use spade connectors), so you could try bypassing it by connecting the original loom back in - one plug (usually drivers side) should just be sitting loose and unconnected in the bay, and the other on the passenger side will be connected to the new loom to control the relays. If the relays and fuses are not in a water tight sealed box, they can get wet or corrode.

Welcome to the forum- they pop up on eBay once in a while, or as above - a tandem gear shift bicycle cable - at the end of the day it's just a bowden cable cut to a certain length.

Looks like the wiki went awol during a recent upgrade of the forum.....

Please use 2 x axle stands and wheel chocks for your own safety! Depending on the variation, the filter will either be held on with a round steel loop band with a bolt to tighten it, or a plastic cradle that it sits in, which has fixings on the corners that you need to undo to drop it. The loop band cradle type is often rusted to bits or seized if the filter has not been touched in years. First pic is the combined pump and filter housing, second is the VR6 style filter.

Pierburg will have a blue fuel level sender on it, with different mounting and loom connections - the VDO one is white and slots into the side of the swirl pot. So depending on pump, you will need the matching sender unit - as the Pierburg pumps are no longer made, this means buying a sender as well when replacing with a VDO or "VDO style" pump. It is possible to jury rig the old sender on to the new swirl pot, but not ideal - also if it is just the pump that has failed, it's possible to open the swirl pot and just replace the pump unit with one of similar dimensions. Somewhere on the Internet, there is a site that sells a billet mounting that fits inot the OEM rubber pads in the tank bottom and allows you to use a Bosch motorsport pump body with more fuel pressure than you will ever need! The main thing, as already said, is that you get a 4 bar pump for the 2.9 VR6 (ABV).

It's a bit of a pain alright - another reason why som upgrade to the later ABS system - this does away with the brake pedal sensor.

Sounds like the residual pressure was not holding, so the pump would have to build up the pressure again during starting.

Sounds like the mech is broken - most likely the lhs cable guide has snapped. There are at least early and late versions of the motor - some Mk3 ones fit. Best bet is to get the part# off your existing one and try and cross reference online.

Have you tried operating the sunroof with the allen key? It should slide back ok - if not, it's a sign of a broken mech or cables, or one about to break - most common symtom being tilt but no slide, and the lhs side one seems to go more often. Also sounds like your motor could be on it's last legs, probably overworked trying to shift a seized mechanism.

It runs from each corner of the sunroof cassette. There is a small plastic host attached to it which runs down the inside of the A pillar, into the scuttle area and out of the drain channel near the wing.

Also the sunroof drain as well as the door membranes. The water will pool at the lowest point, so it can be hard to work out where exactly it's getting in - but doing the seal on the fresh air intake is a good call. The issue is you will need to remove at least the right one of the three piece lower window edge trim, and this is most likely stuck on with sealant, which will have to be very carefully cut off so as not to damage the glass. Originally from the factory each panel is held won by a couple of two-piece plastic clips, but as these are old and brittle they are likely to break during removal - but replacements are easily got online.

Ha- "Stark Industries"! They must be having a laugh, or else it's a play on the German, "stark" meaning "strong", or in slang cool/sound/great.

Haha. In Ireland the premiums only ever go up!

With AXA on a classic policy here in Ireland, €290 fully comp with two drivers and claims protection. Need to have a daily insured with them though.

Based in Germany, seems completely legit. If they list on fleabay.co.uk they should be willing to ship? Could be an issue with the carrier, so maybe ask them to ship DP/DPD standard post. I get stuff from Germany all th time, alebit to Ireland, but I use an AdressPal service in the UK and US for sellers that won't ship internationally and just pay a surchage for the final leg.

Seems strange - from where? They just need to declare a customs value - it’s more likely the shipping agent they are using.

that's a good idea - I've only kept mentioning it because that is what seemed to sort my warm start problems after replacing and checking nearly everything else. The non-return valve and a new FPR fixed the cold start long cranks. I don't think the relays would be the cause - they'd either work or not, or give you lots of other problems, but they are cheap, so no harm in replacing.

My bet is on the cam/hall sender, unless it’s already been replaced.

Get a Sealey pressure bleeder that has the pump in the reservoir - never had any issues - and make sure that you bleed the ABS pump, clutch slave and master and the brake master in order, finishing at the brake master, after doing the callipers and alternating n/s and o/s. The idea is that you gradually work your way towards the highest point in the system. To be honest, none of these older cars have a great pedal feel anyway, because the mechanical advantage is just not there at the servo. Vacuum leaks and weeping seals in the pistons don’t help much either.

Yep, it’s possible. Access is easier with them off, but you will likely break them or crack the windscreen trying to get them unstuck. I’ve replaced mine with an SWG one piece panel. Don’t forget to u do the bolt on the bracket to the firewall near the wiper motor. It’s well nigh impossible to get the motor off with the wiper mech in place.

I think the pressure is holding fine - I went through all this testing about 4 yrs ago and the results were pretty similar to yours - I do remember the NRV making a big difference to the residual pressure.

When you say "crank sensor", do you mean the cps at the front bottom of the engine? The other component I ended up replacing was the cam (hall) sensor, for my car it came with a new dizzy, but on the coil pack cars it is a seperate part - worth checking. The issue is often that there are numerous sensors that have to work in tandem with the ECU to get everything as normal, and an incorrect or intermittent reading from one of them can throw things out.

I had this - long cranking when cold and warm, and the non-return valve fixed it for me, would definitely recommend it anyway. As far as I know, this was actually a recall at one stage, and you will come across a number of cars with the valve retrofitted by the dealer with an official VAG part number.

Is the issue that the drain section can't be removed or that the old cap is in 3 parts?