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If you don't know how old the sensors are, the readings could be off as well. Worth replacing them as they are not too expensive or hard to do. Full coolant fluh and change with G11/12+ as well would be recommended. I find for checking temps around the engine bay, a handheld infra-red thermometer is really useful.

The "hit it with a mallet" method can buy you several more years - using the windows often will also help stop them from seizing. We'll try anything to save us from doing this jjob - both beacuse it's a right pig, and because working replacements are so hard to source. The motor is part of the cable assembly, so it can't really be detached, especially when it's in the door They are also not (and have never been) available separately, although you can get aftermarket versions that have a separate motor. These were intended as an upgrade for cars without electric windows. Any time it is ever mentioned, the whole assembly needs to be replaced, although you could in theory open it up once off the car and refurbish the innards. In any case, you will need Inspector Gadget arms.....

Absolutely - it's always very suspect when someone offers somethign directly by PM wihtout even replying in the thread - and don't get me started on the "friend of a friend" part - but with parts so hard to come by, we are all potential victims. So sorry to hear someone got scammed and hope it gets sorted or at least that it wasn't too much. I would only buy on here or off FB from people who have been around a long time.

Same here - reported it and ignored - very obvious scam, just picked a wanted post with unobtainium NLA part which a "friend" has plenty of. Mods should ban the accounts.

Just checked mine and it is laid out the same - and as dirty, but the routing is correct, all above the pipes.

It could be worth having a good trawl with the part number you're after online - sometimes Classic Parts stock gets bought up in quantity by aftermarket resellers and appears on fleabay etc.

Parts seem to list only one number for the rear, but 4 variations for the front, depending on year, aircon etc. This should give you the part#s and paint marks. Hope this helps with your quest - I run Bilstein B6 with H&R -25mm springs, and the ride is nearly standard with plenty of give. I'm not sure if you can still get all the standard parts, but for shocks, the B4 ones are an exact match for factory, and black to boot.

There were two different sets of spring heights for the VR that changed around 93. Customers were complaining about the front catching kerbs and the splitter scraping on car park ramps, so they raised them a bit and fitted the 50mm splitter - hence the famous 4WD stance My car is an early 1993 and had the factory springs and shocks still fitted at 36k, and didn’t exhibit the high ride height that the later cars are known for.

VAS1551!! Is that the one that can print a receipt from some till roll with cryptic fault codes (and probably how much it will cost to fix at the VAG dealer)? Yeah, the G60s would be 2x2, to be honest, for early ones I would doubt that there is much to be interrogated - I know that my 8v Digifant Golf (PB) from 1990 did not have any diagnostics even though it was largely run by the ECU. The US models had additional diagnostic features to assist with meeting Californian emissions control standards, so don't go by the Bentley as that covers only US G60 models - you'llbe unlikely to find all the same options on a UK G60.

Looking forward to any develpments with those new bushes of yours seeing as the parts are now NLA. Great to see stuff like that going on. I didn't realise there were any rubber grommets there at all either, until I checked the lip of the aperature - mine were still in there. I think they are still available as they are a standard part, and probably worth replacing to make for a more secure mounting.

Early VR6s will have the 2x2 connector, later the 16 pin OBDII purple one. The Engine ECU and the ABS ECU are the only two options you will have once connected. The Ross Tech site for VCDS will cover any port adjustments you might have to make.

Yes, from FPR to nipple on front right of inlet.

Correction - there is also a rubber grommet that sits on the hole in the bulkhead - so the metal washer goes on the spindle, then the spindle is inserted from below through the grommet, then the spacer, sits around the spindle but in the grommet from the outside, flat side out, then the lock nut. You can see it in the second picture, the flat part the same colour as the lock but is the flat side of the spacer.

Thanks for that - so it looks like the steel washer sits on the four shoulders of the spindle, then the plastic spacer, flat side to the washer and the lock nut on the outside. Will give that a go. Many thanks for the photos.

Hi all - just looking for some help and maybe pictures if possible - I'm in the middle of refubing my front wiper linkage, and forgot to make note of how the washers and spacers mount on the spindle as they go through the bulkhead. So I have: - a large metal washer - a black plastic cup spacer - a large nut So the nut obviously is the last part to go on, but a bit confused as to the spacer and the other washer - guessing that the spacer sits with the flat part up on the spindle, this mates up to the bulkhead, and then the washer and nut on the other side? Many thanks.

The OEM FRP is 4 bar, and sits on the right hand side of the fuel rail - from your picture it looks like right location and clip, but there should only be a very small vacuum host attached to a nipple, not that big hose. To remove it, take out the clip and use plumbers pliers to gently rock it out - use some silicone lubricant or penetrant spray first - but don't lever it with a screw driver as the circular housing is very soft metal and can deform easily. I guess if you are replacing, it doesn't matter too much if you damage the old one a bit.

Yeah, bent/loose or damaged ABS rings is a good bet - also, sensors or wiring can still be faulty even though your are getting good readings. On the VR6 you can pull fault codes from the ABS ECU with VCDS - not sure if this is an option on hte G60?

Ah ok - could be corrosion on the starter connections or a shot solenoid - will it jump start? Ignition switch could also be faulty.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/1157162 Any use? Seems a good price too - I'd stay away from the other cheap Chinese copies on there ("Ridex", anyone?) the names are pretty hilarious.

Do you have the full part# ? You might still be able to get a new Bosch unit - if it's used you're after, there's plenty on eBay or try the Corrado facebook groups. I haven't had any experience of it, but it's claimed that a Golf 5 V5 one will fit with some minor work, or is even a direct replacement, although that would be too easy.

Yep, stage 1 is just like any other car, 2 is noticably loud and stage 3 is like a jet turbine taking off and will drain your battery flat in about 20 minutes - don't ask me how I know!

When were you expecting fan stage 1 to come on? I presume you have read this - it gives pretty much all the low down in the first few posts: Switch On: 92-97 C (198-207 F) Switch Off: 84-91 C (183-196 F) So not too far off normal - you can also tell which speed it is by the noise of the fans - stage 1 is controlled directly from the rad sender, not the fan control unit - also remember that VCDS is taking it's reading off the blue coolant temp sender in the thermostat housing, so this may not be exactly the same as what the rad switch sees, which might explain the discrepancy. Either way there is no ECU or fan control module involvement in stage 1 - in fact the Motronic ECU has nothing at all to do with control of the fan, but monitors the engine temperature to switch from lean/rich map and engage lambda control after warm up. The coolant temp gauge on the dash also uses a sender in the thermostat housing, so once again, possibly gives a different reading. If you can get hold of a spot infra thermometer, they are handy for confirming different readings around the engine bay.

This is how the ECU reset is meant to be done to get the learned values correct: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_reset_procedure.html Clearing the fault codes is just one part of the puzzle. There was a lot of debate on if the whole procedure is needed every time, especially as it is quite time consuming and awkward, and that the car might just adapt eventually itself after a battery disconnect - some of the time a 10 minute wait with the battery disconnected seems to be enough. The main thing is, after battery disconnection, the ECU and sensor beviour can't be relied on until the learned values have been adapted to. It could also be worth taking a close look at your cam sensor/hall sender (either part of the dizzy, or to the right of the coil pack depending on year) - I've seen this cause intermittent cut-outs and stalling when faulty. Hope this helps a bit.

You can use the standard VW lights on buzzer relay from a Mk3 or later, and run some wiring to it - I think it was an earth, feed from sidelights or dash illumination circuit and the driver's door contact switch - I did this about 10 years ago, but haven't looked at it in a while - I'll see if I can find anything in the archives.

Check the blue/white wire in the radio loom - it is probably connected wrong or earthing against something randomly. It should only be connected if you have a radio that support speed dependent volume control (GALA) and not many do. Otherwise, the spoiler control module may be at fault, and worth swapping out with one that is known to work.