fendervg

Cheers.

Sound - thanks for the quick replies - will give it a go so - I can always turn it off real quick! Has anyone actually done it before just to be sure, to be sure?

Hi all - I have the whole front end of the car off to work on the coolant system and know that you can't move the car with the bumper off - but is it possible to start and run the engine while filling coolant? I'll replace the rad, hoses etc. Car is on jack stands and he engine mount is in place and the front cross member is on, and I have the sump and gearbox supported. I don't want to put the bumper and rad support back on and then discover that it's leaking or I have forgotten something.

Did it come off a C or a MkIII? I could be interested after Christmas if it's still around.

There's a great one I have that is a pressurized plastic bottle with a plunger and a gauge - means you don't rely on a spare tyre for the pressure. Never had a problem with it. Just don't over pressurize it or you risk wrecking some of the older seals.

No colour ones I'm afraid - although all the diagrams have the colours of the wires marked on them. That thread on CGTI is probably the best. I have some German Corrado specific ones as well for a 93 VR if anyone is interested.

You shouldn't need any washers - there are adjusting screws front and back for proper alignment

Don't complain, 96 is good. A VR will be anything between 88 and 112, with most sitting around 100, my average is 104.

They're still available - it's not a Corrado specific part.

How much did you end up paying for the tensioner unit ?

If you are replacing the tensioner it comes as a whole unit - you can replace the bearings individually but it's quite a job - there's a how-to in the wiki. The ribs need to match what's on your pulleys. I wouldn't replace the tensioner just yet - try the belt on it's own first.

Drain plug on crack pipe is the easiest - take the reservoir cap off and undo the drain - might be an idea to buy a spare drain plug in case the old one gets damaged.

I was planning to go with a different kit - an aftermarket one, but haven't got around to fitting it yet - all I have is the stalk in place. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?46616-Retrofit-GRA-Cruise-Control&highlight=cruise+control

PM me your email address and I will send on what I have

Check my post above - part number is in it.

G is for the gauge sender, WK is for the warning light - what kind of sender did you use ? They are rated for different pressures, so check that first - you will get high readings when you start the car, but once it warms up it should settle at 4-5 at idle. Original sender is 1-pin, fitted with a T piece, part#535 919 561B, but 2-pin gauges should work if they are 0-10bar, e.g. some Audi Coupes. Also check that it's not earthing somewhere along the way.

Yes - one for full size spare, one for the space saver. Essential when using bigger front disks as the spacesaver won't fit.

Nope - not them - my 93 didn't have the loom fitted - the connector is different to what you see there anyway.

Yep, glove box light is the way to go - use a good earth as well - either run one to the footwell or the cigarette lighter.

Irwins work well - use plenty of pen oil and some heat first - a bang with a chisel and hammer to shock it won't do any harm either. I've had luck sometimes with hammering on a slightly smaller socket or on a hex head, a star key to start it off. Worst case is you need to cut and drill - and this will take ages unless you have a really heavy duty drill. Just take your time and be patient.

Good choice - I run VAG 288 pads and discs and for a daily they work really well in all kinds of weather.

There are also two "air ducts" that sit below and on each side of the front splitter. These are still available with all their fixings.

Once you take it over 4000rpm the VR will give you all the sounds you need. I had a filter on my MkII and it was a right pain - I'd recommend a stainless exhaust if you want more noise. Yep, the tax and the pump prices are a killer over here! Only good car related news I've had recently is that AXA have given me life long no-claims protection. As far as the filter goes - various tests have shown that there is no measurable performance gain apart from an increase in induction noise - and some people have reported problems with their MAF when oil gets on to them. The OEM filter flows exactly as much air, and probably filters more. Only way to really get more air in there is a blower or a turbo.

Welcome - I'm in Dublin and mine's a daily driver. Don't bother with the K&N, you won't see any noticable gains - just change the stock paper filters regularly.

I has lots of problems on my MkII because I was replacing bits of the cooling system piece meal - what tended to happen was that when you replaced one old part, e.g. the water pump the pressure in the system would rise and spring a leak somewhere else. If I was to do it again I'd just renew the whole system at the same time - you will have it drained anyway. So I'd recommend saving, and doing: Rad Temp sender Stat housing and stat Water pump if noisy Hoses Crack pipe Oil cooler