fendervg

Well, there aren't many options. BBA-Reman at least have diagnostics that they can use to test a pump unit. If you or someone you know is handy with electronics it's possible to take a look at the PCB yourself. There's very few good second hand units around because most of them weren't working when taken off the car and they were only produced for RHD in the first place. VW do have some new ones in stock, but at over £2k a piece I don't think there will be many takers.

PCB is in the rectangular plastic housing that sits underneath the pump unit. Right in the way of lots of heat, dirt and water! The connector goes into the front of it. Two long Allen head screws hold the cover on, but they can seize and are easy to round off. I don't think the ECUs go faulty that often unless they get water damaged. It's all solid state and simple stuff.

I don't think the pumps changed on the RHD VR6s - probably just a minor parts revision. Once it's got the correct number of outlets and the right loom connector socket you should be good to go. Be aware that the actual mode of failure on these is not the valve solenoid (unless extremely corroded or heavily contaminated brake fluid), but the PCB that is underneath, which can crack with heat, get dirty/wet and the loom connector disintegrates.

They are getting hard to find now because they were only fitted to a few models for a short period of time and were specific to RHD. Not all o them are repairable or can be successfully refurbished as well. I remember reading somewhere that the same ABS system was fitted to some Volvo cars from the same era.

The Digifiz is too small to fit snugly into the Corrado binnacle, it would need a bit of fettling and a surround to look right.There's plenty of info online about fitting them to a Mk2 Golf. The most common digi dash conversion for the Corrado that I've seen is using the ones from an Astra GTE - there was a post on the FB group a while back from a lad that had a few of these for sale.

For the wiring, there is a link loom from the switch to the fusebox assembly, and then it's a whole headlight loom replacement with one that has the wiring for range adjustable lamps in it. Often available on German ebay, where this was a more common option. The motors are not specific to the Corrado, so should be easy to find. Replacing the loom is a lot of hassle, and it's possible to run a new loom yourself - each motor has 3 pins, one for 12v current, one for earth and the middle pin for the signal from the switch, so it's easy enough to come up with something. I have the parts stashed away somewhere and have not got around to fitting them yet - will see if I can dig out part numbers and a wiring diagram for you.

Early VR6s have the 2x2 connector - I think the change-over happened about the same time as coil packs were used instead of distributors. All are OBD1 however.

Worth checking the FPR - there is a small allen-head nipple on the front of the fuel rail on the left, near where the flexi-hoses for feed and return join, you can connect a pressure gauge here to test it. Be careful undoing it as there may be a fair bit of residual pressure there. The fuel pressure should be 3.5 bar with the pump running, and rise to 4 bar (fuel pump nominal pressure) when you disconnect the small vacuum hose feed on the FPR. With the engine turned off, it should keep a good residual pressure and still show >3 bar after half an hour or so. A few of us on here have fitted a small non-return valve on the feed hose at the pump end in the fuel tank and this has sorted warm starting issues. I'd also check the hall sender (either part of the distributor, or in the side of the head near the coil pack) as they are also known to cause hot starting problems sometimes.

Yep, it's to heat and vaporise oil residue in cold climates during start-up. On UK cars it's always a dummy part with a plug going to it from the loom, but no terminal pins in the sockets. I've never been able to come across the part number for the actual part with the heating element in it and am not even sure if they are available any more, but they are not needed on our cars.

Yeah, a good idea to always use something to spread the load a bit and protect the under seal. A good idea someone gave me years back was to use ice hockey pucks - they are made of a very hard rubber compound and perfect for this.

BKR5E will work as well. They are slightly cheaper, I think the EKU is the long life version.

Yep. They usually have them - at least that's where I used to get them. They are also used on some runabouts.

NGK BKR5EKU. Bog standard and easy to get hold off. Don't bother with any of the fancy triple electrode long life ones as they make no difference on the VR, some feel they can even cause problems.

That's a joke. What's broken on the one you have? It's a really simple circuit board and you can easily solder in a replacement bulb or even better, an LED with resistor.

B6 with H&R springs is a good compromise. That's what I have on mine and results in a reasonable drop with good handling and close to standard ride quality.

Those faults are unlikely to be ECU related, but are more commonly on issue with the ABS pump unit itself. Either a stuck valve solenoid or damage to the loom connector and printed circuit board. If the ECU was damaged you probably wouldn't be reading any fault codes from it. The pumps can be tested, and if repairable, refurbished by the likes of BBA-Reman. Alternatively you could just chance a second-hand unit. They were still available new from VAG the last time I checked, but at the price of a new car!

LOL - wouldn't we all. Probably cost as much put together as another VR6 by the time you're finished. If it's just a variable inlet manifold you want, there were a couple of Schrick VGIs put up for sale recently. There was a set of cream Recaros on eBay a while back, not sure if they are still there, and the gauges are very hard to find - watch out when you do find them as they came in left and right hand drive versions, as the centre console is different.

The only thing that should ever really be connected to that wire is the GALA feed from the radio for speed-sensitive volume control if you have a head unit that supports it - I've seen problems when this wire is left bare in the radio loom if it's not connected and shorts on the dash metal.

Check for air leaks in the intake and vacuum system and the PCV valve

Ah ok. In Dublin myself. The only other place I can think of is Autowerks in Cork! Wish I could help but my experience is all VR and naturally aspirated 4/5 pot VAG engines - but the G60 is basically just a charged Digifant 8 valve. Have you checked for vacuum leaks and tried a different ECU? Does it have any mods?

Give Daltons near Portlaoise a call - they might be able to help - http://www.daltons.ie/ You could also ask around on Autostadt.ie - whereabouts are you based and what's up with the car? Do you think it's specifically a G-Lader issue?

Sounds like the standard mode of failure for the ABS pump units. Dirt and moisture get sucked in and damage the PCB connections. You might be able to get the board repaired or else you will be looking at a second hand or refurbished unit. Is the ABS unit on the 16v the same as on the VR? If it's not it might be more common, so cheaper.

No need if it's all working properly and you have all 3 fan stages. Low temp switches and stats will likely just mask other issues that need to be sorted. These cars run hot anyway, but can handle it if the cooling and oil systems are working properly.

You can leave the fog lights in, there is a loom connector about a foot along where you can unplug them. The headlights have two screws at the top and another one halfway down the back which is accessible through a hole in the panel above. Use a torch and you will see it. And the grille will need to come out to remove the lights.

Where did you get it in the end? Just for the benefit of other forum users who might need one.