potatonet

Yesterday I put in 2 autometer gauges, boost and oil pressure, and a gauge pod into the center part of my dash, gauges have LED conversion kit in red. Today I put in bilstein sport rear suspension, and tuesday I am putting in the sport front suspension and changing the rack and pinion as well, with new tie rods.

well I hope the one I got is gonna fit, will find out tomorrow. you know its funny, the 600 pound steering column here in the US is 90 US....... the adjustable one right? yeah 90 bones....

.... think I will keep mine.... so I can still store my illegal alcohol...

zarman, nice setup, mine is the exact same cd player and all....

anyone got a pic of what it looks like without an armrest? looking at doing a conversion if its nice

ok thanks I will check that out, my fan also doesnt turn on, unless on defrost, replaced the 3 relays and the fan thermoswitch. would the little yellow one by the valve cover, the after run switch also control whether it turns on or off?

forgot to ask, anyone got any suggestions?

so my car doesnt overheat anymore, sticks at 165 F flat, with my race thermostat and fan switch.... however, racing people up hills makes it overheat slightly, and consume water... it also consumes a little water on a daily basis... have to refill every week.

ah ha you see the WRX intercooler! yeah its really easy, bit of custom hose and a custom mounting solution, also custom venting and voila you have a blingin setup!, more flow!

it was aimed at 2cc, good job with the math, your numbers are close estimating that these engines are only 40 % efficient, wish I could make a carnot cycle engine..... physically impossible blah blah.

I wish, he crashed it a month ago, insurance has it now, he got 10k for it cause of the mods

took it out completely it will fit in there though, yess add .5 quarts

did you end up replacing the radiator, the temp shouldnt go up in traffic.... or at least thats why my car overheated. I replaced everything now including fan and fan wiring. took my a year but I got it done!

I have an 8.5" by 11" mocal cooler in the front of my radiator, had to remove AC condenser but it will work without this removal, just tightly

slight modifications to mounting brackets will need to be made, nothing a intermediate couldnt handle with a welder and a drill gun

ok if you want the easy way out of the corrado intercooler problem take a WRX intercooler and make the side bit come out 90 degrees from where it is now, friend did this to his corrado, took one from an STI cause its bigger and it worked great, IN THE STOCK PLACE, gained approx 6-8 hp and 10 ft lbs.

I think its 3.78L per gallon here so in theory I should be getting about 24 when you guys get 30.

ignition was off, fan does turn on when temp is at 230, I have to over ride it by turning it onto defrost.

BHP means at the crank in simpler terms, redrob didnt mean to insult you just letting you know there were other things that could be done to make it stupid fast, as I read your first inquiry it seemed like this is what your plan would be, just adding suggestions, as for the intake... I have had bad experiences with corrado after corrado of people custom making things that go on their engine, granted you might be a good fabricator, but I have seen things like that fail more often than not, hence the suggestion of get a real intake. As for basic knowledge goes, retarding and engine raises powerband to higher RPMs any tuning shop knows this, advancing it lowers the powerband. if your powerband was more focused on the lower RPM's you are indeed advancing the timing. the gear is most likely jacked up as you said. and if by some act of god that your retarding the timing actually took the powerband down the RPM range, then yes your retarding did indeed increase low end power. accelerating like a geo metro, I know that feeling, check ure ISV, boost levels/leaks, and your dizzy. your advancing the timing or retarding it, will indeed make the car accelerate like a squirell. retarding it will make it slower than shiznit, this is what happened when my crank pulley sheared its key off, retarded about 25 degrees, slowest accell in history. check your air/fuel like henny said, probably something there. cheers and sorry for the mix up

um.... this is US gallons right? 200 miles on 12.1 gallons

ok so I got a new fan like all of you people reccomended, Gavin yes I bought one from the US. its a Piece of crap tho. the blade came with excess plastic on it, just barely, had to file it down. VEMO fans are interesting. anyway do I try to ground it out and nothing happens, the wire that goes onto the after run on switch doesnt turn the fan on when grounded. I have replaced the interior relay, #31 with a new one. there are 2 others that are in the front of the car. dont know if I should replace them, probably will anyway. but what are some reasons for the grounding not working?

if you were to have bottom end, then you would be advancing the timing not retarding it. cam retardation maximum on a G60 is controlled by the knock sensor and can go as far as 12 degrees retard, I would say you areprobably pushing around 190-205 hp, and about 220 torque at the crank... get a real intake... you have a few more things you can do, bigger injectors, stage 5 chip by SNS, eurosport IC tubes, spark plug wires, 65mm pulley, exhaust... plenty more to list. why do u want to know? Bragging rights? california in summer will drop your HP about 15 so be ready for it.

arent they a hastle though, dont you have to empty them out?

sick. thanks. this is what they said, what milage can I expect to get with it and the 30# injectors. Stage 5-5, Same as stage 5-4, except for 30# or 42# injectors, custom maps for your motor. right now I have custom map and get about 16 mpg.

this is assuming you have a manual. its located on the back of the tranny. follow the speedometer cable.