potatonet

IF the little rubber pieces arent in the exact same place that they were before the MFA will not work, therefore that is your problem, mess around with them and try it out, it will fix the problem, I had the same issue.

actually its running rich, so I have plenty of fuel, oil heat is about 200F 95C I have a mocal oil cooler that is gigantic, pressure is max of about 80 psi(about 5 bar). it overheats when I punch it, no other time just when I lay my foot into it. I really need an AFR gauge.

wow it does look nice, I like the fender flare look better myself

ok I let it idle for about 10 mins or so and I got it to about 210F or 100C, and the fan didnt turn on.... =-/ I think the BRAND NEW 18 dollar thermoswitch doesnt work! I tested the wiring yesterday to see if it was that, the wiring is fine and works flawlessly, there is a 12V relay system on it which works as well, I tested the wiring using the thermoswitch plug, cross the wires and voila it works, that means that I need a new thermoswitch, a very very low temp thermoswitch! OK lets just say that if my thermoswitch doesnt turn the fan into full blast mode when I am flooring it, would this lead to the coolant overheating and bubbling out of the top of the reservoir? roughly 14 psi and lots of fuel included in the mixture too.

someone make a video please, and post it on google video or something were all messed up on this one!

the cylinder head was pressure tested and is not cracked or warped. will do that test tonight and post results this evening.

agreed 8)

negative, I'd try for a moment and then realize that it was a waste of time as he would be slowly crawling up on me. 8)

ok if anyone has been here for the past yea we all know my G60 overheats... I have replaced everything, EVERYTHING! The fan, the radiator, the switches, the thermostat (twice), the heater core, the hoses, the flanges (4 of 'em), the water pump, the headgasket, the fan wiring harness, coolant lid, coolant resovoir, the relays for the fan (all 3), the oil cooler, I simply can not figure out why my car overheats! let me explain, maybe someone can simplify this for me. I go on flat road, floor it get to 100 temp shoots up to the max and stays there for a while, I will remind you that the coolant is just filled and properly too. takes a while to get back down, then its stable at about 180, the thermostat and fan switch temp, Go up a hill the temp climbs up, not even flooring it! floor it and it peaks, it only takes about 20-30 seconds of flooring it for the thing to overheat, cant even do a smog test without overheating! I go for a drive, 30 mins, come back after a thrashing and the coolant light goes on, the water bubbles out of the coolant container this is where I am losing coolant, If I had a cracked block the coolant would be emptying out on just a trip to work, so I know its not that, the head was rebuilt completely and there are no divets in it at all, there is no coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant, coolant is perfectly clear. I can drive for about a month under normal conditions without running out of water, this is me accelerating at almost every stop light but only going up to the speed limit. ANYONE, PLEASE HELP ME, I AM SO FED UP WITH COOLANT ISSUES! btw my friends C230 sports coupe can do everything that mine cant we tested each car side by side on all tests, his got to a max of 189 degrees (the hill test), so I know something is wrong, I am running a lot of boost and a lot of fuel but this shouldnt make it overheat.

I have a G60, read mods below, against an R32 its fairly even, at higher speeds they pull up on me but thats those 2 extra cylinders, higher speeds being over 100 mph. my car can take them till then though, trust me my buddy has one, its heavy like a tree though, 3400 lbs 1550 kg for you other folks. my car weighs 2600 after some slight modifications, power to weight ratio in an R32 is about 14 lbs per 1 hp. in my car its about the same just slightly lower, I have 190 hp, just dyno'd (rolling road) it yesterday. I have 215 torque so thats why I beat him till 100, once his extra hp starts working for him his car pulls away, only normally at higher speeds. I could see how a VR C could keep up with an R32 however the VR c is heavier than the G60. Fast x, you can not compare a mini cooper S to a corrado, they weigh as much as a stock G60 and have 4 more hp, power to weight on these is 16.4 lbs per 1 hp. on a corrado VR6 (euro model) it is 14.7 lbs per 1 hp. corrado VR6 would scream on a mini cooper S, as would a modded G60. the R32 was trying, could have been that the driver wasnt the best, but a corrado VR6 should be able to keep up with an R32, 600 lbs makes a big difference.

I didnt use oichans, instructions I got were from DDI.... >=-o

I took the gray piece of plastic with glue off of the back and put the polarizing filter where the grey piece was, this is incorrect right? I should put the piece of plasic on the front where there is a thin film of something correct? first remove that film then put the piece of polarized plastic on?

OMFG I DID IT WRONG! the instructions said to remove the piece on the back!

well the engine sounds nice but I still second doubt it, doesnt that transmission cost an arm and a leg? how much money does this guy have, I MEAN REALLY? how does this guy afford to buy all these parts for his car and have them put in? they were having a conversation about how fast the thing would go... 200mph would never happen, I didnt the physics conversions for the wing and the drag coefficient produced by this kit, max speed should be at about 189 mph, plus or minus 2.46 mph. he said he got to 175, he did, the 500 hp wouldnt probably help it to 189 but after that his car would need to be flat as a rail, like a lamborghini =-D.

it doesnt reverse the lcd so that when you look straight at it its like normal. If I look at it at an angle it will reverse the lcd's, I set up the lights to light up but the reversing of the LCD's doesnt happen, I am going to take a LCD setup off of a 91 and buy my own polarized plastic because I already own red acetate filtering and experiment with it.

yeah I could say some mean stuff about that car, but I wont. I will follow the bambi rule, as far as power goes... I am sad to see its a 20V turbo... could at least be a VR or something beefy to go with the beefy image. I just want to point out that it looks like a honda with that kit... especially with the hood catches and the way he did the front end... =-/ I too do like the kit as long as its done with taste. I want his hood pins though... anyone know where to get those?

has anyone made a gauge mounting solution so that you can place 2, 2- 1/16" gauges on the same piece of plastic as the one that has the emergency flasher button on it? kind of like the ones that go on WRX's... kinda like this http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/pr ... fffa8b4afd or like this

you know I have had nothing but problems with this kit, I am going to get the kit again and try it on another piece of glass, nothing works! the polarizing plastic goes on the back right? well it didnt work for me.... it really dim now. talked to ahn at DDI and he sent me another piece, different direction polarization.... nothing. maybe mine is special being that its a 90...

adjusted the CO pot, I believe I lost some power there, I only feel it missing at about 4-5k... I will readjust later, put more fuel in perhaps, it was at 525 ohms... I am getting an AFR gauge VERY soon now. the guy down the street signalled 25 with his hands at me, I was cracking up... stupid kids... >=-)

I see where you are coming from you are correct but also incorrect, the co pot adjustment will change the sensor reading at idle yes, and it isnt read once you put your foot into it, however the starting idle mixture tells the chip how much fuel to use when it changes your AFR, so if overfueling at low RPMs it will follow into the higher rpms with it. basically if you are too lean at idle you will be too lean at revline, same for too rich. adjusting the co pot to run the exact fuel at idle will allow the ecu to adjust for the exact fuel at redline. snazzy setup I might say.

rgr that, thanks Gavin! what I meant was do I have to be in service mode to set it?

when turning the CO pot do I disconnect the blue temp sender and rev above 3k 3 times? or can I just adjust it to 500-600 ohms outright?

nox failed at 25mph but not at 15 so im thinking fuel? neuspeed p chip = what stage?, i will get sns 5.5 when i get red tops.

reads 345 ohms at 750 rpms on the CO POT. will leaning the mixture out to 600, which I am going to do this weekend, make the power output less or stay the same, I am imagine the same because it wont be spitting out excess fuel and will still be burning all the fuel that goes in. If I am correct I believe the goal is to get as much fuel in as you can and have the engine burn all of it, which is in the range of 500-600 ohms on the co pot. however I took the smog test and I didnt fail the CO part of it.... I failed the NOx part of it.... I dunno any help would be appreciated. Jonathan

excellent, better gas milage... will this deplete my HP? if yes then =-(