oneohtwo

Thanks Dox, that is quite useful - I think d need those panel mounted resistors as well, in order to get the power rating. The inline ones don't go high enough from what I can see. Will need some thought for where to locate them.

Yeah, those seem fair assumptions to give a worst case. (removed the nonsense about the alternator) Voltage drop won't be the full 12V and I read somewhere a rule of thumb was to use a resistor with twice the power rating so I think 180W would do the job, as the voltage drop on the first resistor will be about 6V with 15a. This is good! Think I am going to go with that.

Right based on all this, I think a reasonable wiring diagram/loom could look like this: Which I don't think would need any diodes - correct me if I am wrong. This pretty well reflects the Bentley diagram: But with the take off to the second fan. I've added the colours and thicknesses of wire to the diagram for reference as well. Just need to decide what resistors are needed. I have shown the lower end of the readings I got, on the basis that at some point in the circuit the resistance was at those levels. The higher values could be due to gunk on the connectors. I am not sure what power rating the resistors should have, not being all that familiar with electronics. I understand this is the power the resistor needs to dissipate and can be found y P=V^2/R where V is the voltage drop - but how do we find the voltage drop? I know this could be found by V = IR where I is the current, but I don't know the current. Any ideas? Or just pick the resistor with the highest power rating for those resistances and hope that covers it?

Arghhh, what have you done! Now I am looking at slave cylinders and they're not horrendously expensive, and still available from good brands... Brembo, TRW, Bosch, Sachs and LUK all available from £30-£80. It's probably going to happen. I need to remove the existing again because the thread has partially stripped on one bolt. Got some thread repair for that, so may as well swap out the cylinder now as well.

I've checked the resistance on the fan motor, and it's as follows: Speed 1: 0.5 - 0.7 ohms Speed 2: 0.1 - 0.2 ohms. I double checked the multimeter against a resister with a known value of 0.66 (+/-5%) and it read 0.7 so should be correct. Took a few readings which gave the range above. Speed 1 initially was 0.7 but then had more readings at 0.5-0.6 probably after I scraped some corrosion off the contacts.

Yeah, true! Just seeing how rare they are and how much they get flogged for on ebay... I will dig out the Bentley manual and have a look. Good idea, if I've not busted it in the process, I will have a look and see what I get. Might also say in the Bentley.

Out of interest I opened up the existing motor, and partly in the hope of using the connector, which perhaps in hindsight was a mistake, but if anyone is interested it looks like this: I've traced on the circuit routes below, as far as I can see them: I suppose the only point of interest is that the flat disk (with the 046 stamp on it) on the outside appears to be some sort of resistor (possibly, electronics is not a strong point, but I did notice the hard white insulating material falling out as I took it apart) and the feed for speeds 1 and 2 are passed through this before going into the motor itself, connecting via the spade connector on the left/right before connecting up with the terminal that Speed 3 runs directly into, and then around the motor circuit. Would this mean that the current for speeds 1 and 2 is regulated at the motor, rather than entirely by the control unit? Not sure if that needs any consideration for the slimline fan wiring. Anyway, there we go. Have possibly broken a perfectly good fan motor for no good reason - although it probably did need refurbishment anyway.

Bit more progress on the rebuild over the last few weeks after I wasn't able to get on it in January. Connected up the driveshafts which was a tricky job, had to jack the engine up at the gearbox end as the shaft had dropped down and it doesn't clear the gearbox and subframe which was a pain! Gear linkages all connected up, and the slave cylinder back on, oil filter and ancillary bracket on: Starter in - went for the newer Vr5 one, found a fairly cheap genuine Bosch (alledgedly, it had the correct tag) reconditioned one on ebay. Also refurbed alternator, oil cooler and bolted down the cam cover. I had treated myself to an alloy crack pipe from ECS earlier in the year in a moment of madness so fitted that and the thermostat housing I'd had sat on the shelf for a few years from when I last changed the radiator. Not as old as the thermostat I've had about 10 years, when I first put a new rad in. Could never get a siezed bolt out so had to leave it all this time. Felt good to finally put it in! And finally got the lower intake manifold and fuel rail on. I painted the intake in a crackle grey which I quite liked and intended to do the upper manifold in his as well but couldn't get any sort of good finish with the paint so abandoned that for something else. Got to sort all the wiring out as well. All connectors are labelled so no issues connecting it, but it doesn't seem to be running in the right place. Some areas don't reach and others there's too much slack. I took loads of photos but apparently not enough...

If it's this one: I thought the same but the plug is still in the hole, so I am stumped.

Need some help identifying a tiny screw on a VR6 if anyone else has disassmbled theirs. It's an M3/3mm diameter and about 6mm long. Needs an allen key to remove. Looks like this: Sadly it is the only screw I forgot to label. I distinctly remember being extra careful taking it out thinking if I drop it I'm never getting that back but cannot for the life of me remember where I took it out. My only inkling was that it was maybe around the throttle body area, or possibly the fuel rail. I was hoping it would be come apparent as I reassembled things but I am running out of parts to fit and it hasn't turned up so I am starting to get nervous! Help!

I don't know, I've not really looked into it but sounds plausible. Would match the wiring diagrams above certainly. I have got a couple of the Comex/revotec fans so need to start looking into the wiring.

Has anyone tried opening up the factory fan houseing and seen how the wiring works in there? Was just thinking within the there must be existing wiring set up to take the relevant power outputs from the 3 stages and directing to the electric motor accoridngly, doing what we try to replicate with the new harnesses. Wondering if it would be easy to keep the existing and just reconnect the outputs?

I agree with this. I think this is something that is being overlooked with the touchscreens, to do anything you have to take your eyes off the road to see what you are pressing, instead of using muscle memory. Obviously there are so many functions now that not everything can have a button or dial but keeping some key ones would be nice. Have to say I think interiors are where modern cars have come on massively over the last 10-15 years, more so than in the preceding 10. Hired a lowly Corsa the other day and it was a pretty comfortable, pleasant place to sit. Everything felt solid, materials were not bad quality and it looked pretty good. 10 years ago and in the equivalent you'd know you were sitting in something cheap and not so cheerful.

Thanks, that all looks very clean and tidy at the back there! Trying to work out why mine looks a lot more cluttered...

Thanks, that's a great help. Not seen 7zap before but will keep that in mind for future reference. Yes, it is carbon moulded. Basically my old one was rotten on the inside and I ran out of ideas for a replacement! Best option I could think of was to mould one in carbon. There's more details in my build thread if you're interested.

Hi all, does anyone know if there should be a bit of heatshield against the bulkhead here: There's an extra pin here that looks like it should have one attached, and it kinda looks like there is from otherpeople's engine bay pictures but I've not been able to confirm. If so, does anyone have a part number? My searching has only turned up the lower one so far.

Ahhh, shame! Still at least you know now. I rather suspected after you said there was an issue and was now showing out of stock that there was an error on the listing and they never had any. Probably such a rare purchase that the listing was never updated. It did seem surprising at the time that Amazon would be the only place to have any!

Hmmm, that's not so good. I haven't ever had an issue with Amazon in terms of customer service, although I have never tried ringing them. A few times I have had items not delivered and there's options next to the order (not easy to find), and they've immediately just sent out a replacement. They are such a large company I don't think I would bother trying to ring though, can see why you've had issues! Odd that you can't cancel - usually that would mean it has been dispatched I'd have thought and in transit. Have you had any email notification it has been despatched? Might have gone in junk, but they always send a dispatch notification, worth a look. Also you can track the order from your orders page: They're not some two-bit organisation so you should be able to find out some info there. That should at least let you know if it has been dispatched or they are waiting for stock anyway. If it's been dispatched then hopefully all good and it's just a matter of waiting for the delivery company to sort themselves out.

Ah yeah, it does say 3-5 days dispatch, and the time of year and everything going on isn't going to help.

Has it arrived? I'm on tenter-hooks here!

Cool, thanks, mine did the same, so that's reassuring.

When you were doing your 288s I don't suppose you found the disc rubbed on the splashguard at all? The little tab that sticks out a bit and sits behind the ABS ring/sensor?

Fair play mate, at least you'll know either way. And it's a bit of a win-win. If its a knock off send it right back and you know you've got the best available in the Dasis, but if it is the genuine article you've got one of the few remaining Nissens/Hella rads.

Apologies! I know the feeling... Unfortunately the question and answer thing on Amazon is only answered by other customers (as far as I am aware) so we could post the question but I doubt we'd ever get an answer. It's not an independent seller either, so there isn't one to contact. The upshot of it being sold by Amazon themselves is they'd have a no quibble return policy if it isn't a genuine product. Having a look at their website Dasis specialise in cooling applications so should know what they're doing, and they manufacture in the EU, so I would have thought it's fine.

I saw the Hella sticker as well - the Hella ones were made by AKG so perhaps they were making identical ones for Nissens as well? It's sold by Amazon themselves so you'd hope they wouldn't be misrepresenting a listing. You're right the Dasis core is listed as 34mm on Autodoc - but then they also have the core dimensions as 630x310x24 which threw me. Don't suppose you have it to hand to do a quick measurement out of interest?