P3rks

Loving this idea.. Where does the car get the delayed interior light from as standard?

I have loads of plastics around I'll chuck in for cheaps if you are still stuck. Gimmie a PM.

Fitted mine today! Well impressed with how stable the engine is, i could tell from rhe second i put it in gear.. I'm going to try the OE rubber on the bottom tomorrow and see how that fairs.. Thanks Jay.. I love them!

Nope, 195 will fit more or less flush with a 7" rim. Look on tyrestretch.com for some pictures!

The server is getting updated, routine maintenance. Could be down for another 12hrs potentially.

^This.... For looks. 205/40 for ride. I'm with Baz; 195/40 would be my choice.

Pretty harsh of me to say... But it's pretty much common sense.. A hot manifold bang next to a piece of rubber full of grease.

Hey hey, You have a 9A engine. The MK3 Golf uses a 2.0 16v engine but is a ABF engine. The MK2 GTi uses a 1.8 16v - KR Code. The Corrado 9A engine is basically a uprated, newer version of the Golfs KR engine in that it has a bigger displacement and uprated fuelling system (Electric rather than the golfs mechanical fuelling). Your fuelling system is KE-Jet where the Golfs is K-Jet. The blocks and cylinder heads are basically the same casings, just different internals. The MK3 Golf 2.0 16v ABF engine uses Digifant fuelling so is a much more advanced electric system and is completely different to that of the Corrado's 2.0 16v. It's also a taller block and 150bhp (yours is 139bhp). So, in answer to your question, I'm sure you can swap some parts with the Golf MK2's 16v engine. But mainly you are sticking to the 9A engined cars such as Corrado's and Passats. Audi's from the same era had a 6A engine fitted which is the same as the 9a just longitudinal instead of the Corrado's transverse mounting. Oh, and not all Corrado's and Passats 16V's had the 9A engine in. The earlier ones came with the 1.8 16v (KR), I think anything made post 1992 should have the 2.0 16v 9A engine. Hope that helps and didn't boggle you!

PM'd

Yes, it's unique. It has a longer body where it fixes to the engine compared to the rest of the 8v range. As already stated you can get them refurbished or just change the bushes. GSF stock the bushes but I would go genuine bosch all the time as I've had issues with GSF ones in the past. Alternatively I do have a really good G60 one up for sale. PM me if you're interested.

PM'd

Hold it for longer with more force. My 1 setting seems really slow/stiff compared to my 2 setting.

That was my thinking too. Just make sure you go for the highest speed rating available for your size. The high speed rating Uniroyals have thicker side walls, so are stiffer.

I've personally never used Michelin, but have always sworn by Conti-Sports for the past 5 years or so. Conti's are superb in the dry as you know, wear could be better but that's a compromise you pay for a sport/high grip tyre, I find they turn a faded colour easily and always need dressing with products to keep looking fresh. They are half decent in the wet but I have broke traction under fast turning before, afterall they are a summer tyre, but I ran them the year we had that awful snow and they did me well, but I was always aware they could lose traction with little warning in poor weather. I'm currently running Uniroyal Rainsport 2's and in the wet/damp/icy conditions they are unbelievably good. No loss of grip under hard accelerating, excellent stability on the motorway, great when hitting large puddles. I have never had a loss in faith with them or an unsure moment.. Wet or dry. In the dry they are pretty good too, not as sticky as the Conti's but that's expected, still the Uniroyals are a good tyre where I feel confident of there limit whatever the weather. In an ideal world I would run Conti's in the summer and Uniroyal's in the autum/winter. But as an all around tyre I'd go Uniroyal everytime. The UK is wet more than it is dry meaning you need a better wet tyre more often, when it is eventually in the dry The difference in changing the tyres for Conti's isn't worth the outlay in my opinion, unless you have money to burn. Uniroyals worked out £150 a set cheaper than Conti's for me too.

UPDATED LIST Engine: • Cylinder head - Recently rebuilt. Which is ported and polished, this has been pressure tested with new stem seals, re-lapped valves, skimmed and also had new exhaust studs. All of this work was done approximatly 2,000 miles ago by a local coach works - £200 • G-werks Stage 5 charger - Covered roughly 6,000 miles since rebuild, seals are good and makes great boost pressure (10psi on full load with my free flowing mods). I have the certificate from G-werks to prove the stage 5 rebuild. This will come with a G-Werks 68mm Pulley - £600 • Boost return delete kit - £50 • Gearbox, Original G60 - No wines or crunches, nice and tight - £100 • G60 Alternator - £40 • PG Block - approx 130k, excellent bottom end, no knocks, oil leaks or the like - £100. • PG Block no:2 - Approx 100k, was my working spare which I was going to rebuild for a 16vG60, has been sat for a few years - £100 • G60 Specific ISV - £30 • Cam Cover - £20 • Cam Cover 2 (cleaned and sanded ready for paint) - £20 • Charger bracket and tensioner - £35 • OE VAG exhaust manifold and downpipe - £100 • Solid Front Engine Mount, G-Werks Supplied - £50 Drivetrain: • 305mm Brembo Brake Calipers, complete with good 4x100 VW disks and pads, hoses, come fastened to the G60 hubs with good recent bearings - £700 • G-max suspension kit, 40mm all around iirc. Suitable for a VR6 - £100 • Fully Rebuilt Rear axle - powdercoated black, recent hand brake cables, bearings, VAG discs and pads, VAG shield, VAG rubber bushes and MK4 Alloy Callipers with hoses. Covered no more than 6,000 miles - £250 • Pair of G60 drivehafts, recent CV joint work in the past 6k - £60 • Rebuilt G60 Front subframe - Powdercoated black, with ARB, powerflex bushes throughout, recent MK2 diesel gearbox mount, G60 rear mount and wishbones - £200 • Standard G60 Front Subframe as taken off a 130k car, ARB, wishbones, all still nice and tight but with a recent MK2 Diesel gearbox mount and G60 rear mount - £100 • Front Cross Member, including standard bushes - £30 • Front Cross member, freshly powdercoated with brand new powerflex bushes - £50 Interior: • Early Style Grey Leather, door cards, front and back seats with warning triangle, good condition, slight wear as expected from 20 year old leathers - £350 • Revo Boost Gauge with SWG drivers side vent pod, all wiring/pipes supplied - £50 • Black Parcel shelf - Mint but requires one rubber strap - £20 Exterior: • Early Style Fogs, very good condition - £50 the pair • Early Style Indicators, slightly murky (just need a clean) and a hairline crack on the o/s - £20 the pair • All body panels and windows are available, it has the late wings and a bonnet too. Offers. • Spoiler + Mech, fully working - £50 Thanks!

Personally, I wouldn't. It might be worth a quick check/clean whilst it's out and check the heater box to see if the flaps are perished though.

^ very poor....

Holy ****! The golfs a right mess, it looks like its been turnover by a tank.. You made the right choice to get out though, I don't know if I would have done the same in that situation.

Whilst we are talking about cams The helpful chaps over on club GTi did a camshaft study which pretty much concluded the lift/duration etc of the VW cams. You can read it here: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156126 It pretty much concludes that the ABF cams are the daddy's.

just to question on this.. Will the ECU need remapping, coming from a 2.8 to a 2.9?

I have some Apline SPR-50C's in mine. These are compents and the door ones fit straight in no hassle, the tweeters were put in the dash and require a little messing about to make them fit such as cutting and sticking. Both tweeters and speakers can not be seen. I would however recommend building up the door speakers on some speaker MDF round layers. Attatch the MDf to the door (not the door pocket) and then teh speaker to the MDF. This'll aid bass, well overall sound quality and stop any vibrations or rattles from the door plastics. I have some alpine 6x4 SXE4625S in the rears, these are a straight swap and fit in no hassle and can't be seen.

I have one somewhere.. PM'd

Good Lad! :)

Up near Castleton, where the road ends and you get parking tickets if you wait too long :bonk:

Nice! I'd 100% want the light up needles then. is there a cost for these yet? I presume thats not showing the backlit dials though?