seanl82

Top work, glad it was a nice easy fix. :thumbleft:

In answer to your question, yes. Looks like it's a GCSE design technology piece by a camp 15 year old boy......... :lol: I'd rather have a Dacia. :lol:

Think it's six months from date of offence that they have to change you Rog. Not sure if there's a limit to sentencing though tbh.

Looks cracking! Look forward to the time when they are available. :thumbleft:

Rear speakers accessed by removing parcel shelf supports. You should be able to see the proper wiring if its not been used by checking down the rear turret carpets. Centre bit on the dash is not a speaker, just a blank. Outer two are removed by levering up at the front corner nearest the door. The covers just clip in. Wooden strip on seat just pushes up into a recess. Heater dials removed by pulling the face of it off, and its secured by four corner screws. Cables under the car are handbrake cables, that do stick down a bit, and the blue one and those next to it are fuel lines. Look a little low to me. The bit on the gearstick surround should have a Karmann sticker on it.

Just pull it down carefully. Its held on by about 12 push clips but they pull out if you're careful. Theres enough flex in it to bend from the middle, and pull each end out from the side trims without damaging it.

They display constantly but the green backlight should be off when the lights are off. If you like, I have a fusebox cover but it has a couple of holes where a previous owner has lost the correct securing clips, and just screwed a couple of self tappers in! It can't be seen, but it's yours for postage if you want it?

Fuel flap is correct, seat cover trim bits should have press rivets in to stop the bending out like that but chances are the splined bit at the back that keeps them in is broke. Dash lights should be off when lights are switched off, battery has obviously been on and off so many times the posts are worn, so it won't clamp tight enough, hence the foil, and finally there should be a fuse box cover which also hides the top part of the bonnet release handle, along with the trim in your footwell on the right which looks broke at the top.

Also it's worth upgrading the rear indicators to super bright led as they will flash red, and be an MOT failure.

That abs sensor isn't taped up. The coils are heald in place by that yellow sleeve. There's an outer casing over the top of it which is assume is still stuck in your hub though. They're a nightmare to get out without removing the brake disk and forcing them out!

Depends what the seller wants for it. It obviously cost a fair amount to get to that state, but it's whether you feel comfortable paying the price they want or not. It's a hard one to judge especially if theyre a member, then it's not right for us to say and possibly hinder a sale. I'm sure we'll point you in the right direction if we feel you are being ripped off though. No one likes to see that and we look out for each other on this forum. :thumbleft:

Upgrading to good quality component fronts will make a good difference, but as they're only 5 1/4" and mounted to the pockets, it doesn't provide a very good acoustic environment, so they'll never be great without spending a fortune on a full blooded "system". Components are sufficient for a reasonable level of sound and a decent frequency range for clarity though.

Has all the work been freshly done or has it been done in the past? Bear in mind that someone on here has picked up a healthy 2.8 block and head for £20, and I also picked one up for £50. They're not expensive or generally sought after, so they are pretty cheap. If the work had been done in the past, it's not worth much more than any other tbh, although if it's still in the car so you can see it running, and there are receipts to prove, maybe a couple of hundred. If it's out already and you don't know the true condition, other than what the seller has told you, I wouldn't pay more than £100 for it without being certain. If it's all freshly done and you can prove its to this engine, it's what you are comfortable with. The work you've mentioned is well over 1k to do if done by a pro, but that certainly doesn't mean that's what you should expect to pay.

Ive had the same issue twice this week on standard rear calipers too Sean. A slow drive for a hundred yards or so stomping on the brakes every now and again has fortunately been enough to free them off.

Still a pointy head though........... :lol:

Its a hand built car, your a better man than me if you can get rid of all the rattles! lol. You should have PAS. Pump is down at the front right of the engine block. Follow the alternator belt. Check the belt is in decent condition and you can turn it no more than 90 degrees with finger and thumb. Probably worth changing steering fluid if its not been done in a while too. You have to use the correct VW green fluid though, rather than ATF or other red type fluid generally available.

Can't hear the vid properly tbh. At least your ABS is operating as normal though!

Yep, normal.

There should be a little bracket with a hole in on the flap (think yours is missing) that goes into the square hole above and to the left of the cap in the picture. It locks by a sliding bar into the hole in the bracket. You cant lock the car from the inside. Apart from putting the lock pin down on each door, but it won't activate the central locking. 1. New headlight required as the bracket is part of the back assembly. 2. Yes 3. Check the new assembly manually. If you remove the cover where the interior light is, you will see an allen key type tool. It fits into the little hole at the back and in the middle of the motor. Be careful though as sometimes when the mech breaks, one side will push up when sliding forward, and will scratch the sunroof panel from the outside. 4. As already mentioned. 5. As already mentioned. 6. Get either Audi TT or two VW Lupo GTI drivers side wipers. Much much better than the standard ones! 7. Not sure if still available from the dealership but I think so, were around £55 per set previously. Some decent reproduction ones on ebay apparently, although I can't confirm personally having never tried them.

Not usually a locking fuel cap. The flap locks with central locking so no need unless yours isn't working? First aid kit is a bonus that its there. Sometimes fetch silly money on ebay for originals, even though they're unusable now as they're obviously out of date! There should be a warning triangle in between the seat backs in a zipped compartment too.

Door handle can be secured by tightening the screw in the door jam just behind the handle itself. Tailgate trim is secured by quarter turn screws, which are not available and as they're soft plastic, most are in a pretty poor state so may be hard to get hold of the screws. Probably easier to get a second hand replacement trim with screws in place, though not sure how good they'll be. And no, parcel shelf 6x9s are not standard.

Not advertised for Corrado but someone else on here mentioned them being the same part number and being perfect, so I bought a set and I can confirm, they are perfect. Cheap too! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271713638194?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Rog Chatfield is still a mod on the CRX OC iirc. A few I know have come a soft spot for a Corrado too! CCoincidentally, I had a little play with a CRX on Tuesday as well. Nothing in it tbf, little pocket rockets those things! With regard to the hheadlight, there is a third screw accessed by a long Philips Screwdriver in the slam panel in the middle area of the headlight. There are always things to do but hopefully nothing terminal for you. Where are you located? As far as a service goes, I'm sure someone close by will give you a hand and show you the basics for a bacon butty! Parts and fluids can be had relatively cheaply so be a shame to fork out for something that's easily achieved by an enthusiastic diy'er, once shown how. :thumbleft: Oh, and directional dials are very common problems indeed. Unfortunately there's no easy, or certainly not cheap fix. If the teeth on the dial mech have broke, second hand ones arch fetching around £90! The cause is usually a stiff bowden cable though, so just replacing the dials will also kill them in short order. Bowden cable replacement is much more fiddly and time consuming.

There's an RR session at Stealth on the same date, sponsored by the VR6OC. Quite a few going and a few from here also. Why don't you get yourself along to there if you're not too far away? Mostly golf's, but a few of us here going to make it a worthwhile mini meet.

Grrrrr, wish I was around for this.......