seanl82

A thumbs up and some very enthusiastic nodding from a guy in a very nice E30 BMW on the M27 today.

Dead battery. You have enough juice to light everything, but the current demand of the starter shuts everything down. Very apparent in this weather especially.

Not good to hear mate. Give it a few days before jumping into something youbmay regret. It's a fair amount of work but if you can find someone close by that knows what they're dodington the cheap, you may think differently.

It's just a circlip holding it in place. 5 minute job to replace no bother. From what I understand, nothing actually breaks on them, it's just a potentiometer inside giving variable resistance based on the position of the piston. I think to refurbish them it's just a case of re-soldering dry joints. I don't know how to disassemble the unit though as I've not looked, but imagine it's a simple procedure. Worth a try whatever the outcome I reckon.

I believe DG Autotech refurbish them if you're in no rush. They are obsolete now but DG offer them with a lifetime warranty iirc.

Just pull the injectors and sit them in a small plastic bottle or glass jar, then turn the ignition to position 2. Fuel pump will prime and you can observe spray patterns, and see how much each one is putting out by how full the bottle/jar is when it finishes.

Also cheaper than RSs too! Are you getting to the point where your expecting to spend on the car as you're so used to it, even if it doesn't really need it Chris!? :lol:

Swap the spade connectors from side to main on the one that wrong?........

Rust on arches, bumpers have small scuffs, doors have car park dings, bonnet stone chipped, scratch on tailgate, wheels need refirb, but the rest of the exterior is in great condition......... the roof? :lol: I may have added some of those above by the way......

Haha, he's even called Barry! https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=AsjPVNGHN_Cf7gai6IGQAg&url=http://www.barryboys.co.uk/&ved=0CB0QFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGNp22ZFtlfQ5Y_bMpACxL7uheADg

It would work on your handbrake trim perfectly well. I refreshed mine and there's not a mark on it now. If your after some leather trimmed A,B&C pillars though that have already been done, I could oblige!?

It does but you need more coats. I wouldn't put it on high friction areas of plastic either as it will wear. My b pillars were hacked to death when I got the car so have black replacements. The paint has worn off just below the drivers side belt guide through friction.

They colour matched mine. I sent them my headrest to match as it's not an area that gets sun bleached or worn much.

Mine was yes. Some say to hire a compressor but I did it with the kit provided and it worked perfectly well, although I'd suggest getting 1 or 2 more air tins. I left about a third in each one to maintain a good pressure. I also went with satin rather than matt clear coat but it's your choice with the finish you want.

Sure. Only thing is my interior is beige, but gives you an idea of what can be achieved. I used the furniture clinic kit. Before. (When I bought the car). http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=79984&p=960492&viewfull=1#post960492 After a bit of a clean! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=79984&p=960728&viewfull=1#post960728 New leather sewn in on the bolsters. (Different colour so you'll see the change after restoration) http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=79984&p=990612&viewfull=1#post990612 Finished article, including some befores again. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=79984&p=1026569&viewfull=1#post1026569

Do the lot Pete. I did my entire interior, and the leather paint was suitable for vinyl too which the other parts will be. Even works on plastics which is spot on. When you apply the abrasive cleaner you should get some paint transfer onto the scotch pad if that's the kit you have. That's when you know you've got the clear coat off. You won't get any transfer if it's vinyl, and you'll be able to tell when scrubbing as the leather will absorb it and feel softer.

The mk3 mech is slightly different. It doesn't have the hooks to raise the panel when in the tilt position and doesn't have the means to fit them. The bits Daren is after can be used though. It's what I used to repair mine.

As title, must be mint/near mint with securing clips intact. Thanks!

:thumbleft:

Dead easy. If you get these they really are plug and play. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=81540 Don't get the cheap kits from ebay. You have to cut into your wiring, and they're not very good quality at all. I can vouch for the quality of this kit. As an engineer by trade, they really are well made.

I need to get the Aqua Blue VR finished so I can get on and fit mine! I can't start on mine for at least 2 weeks though. Damn I want them fitted!!!!!!!

Welcome Ross! Congrats on the purchase of a great car, I had wondered where it'd gotten too! Look forward to seeing it now, and how you progress with it in future. As you can see, Daren didn't last long before pining after and getting another! :lol:

Yeah if you put it back in with the tilt pin in the bracket on the right hand side, just tilt it forward from the top, undo the cable and vacuum line (if its early), then lift it up so both tilt pins are free of the brackets. Lower the column to the lowest setting if its an adjustable one, bring one side out whilst the face of the cluster is facing downward. Shouldn't have a problem from that.

I don't understand it. He obviously spent a lot of time and money on the exterior, yet the engine bay lot seemed very lazy imo. Why wouldn't you remove the gearbox end plate and sump. Just painting over everything including nuts, bolts, gaskets, drive shaft cups, and even alternator windings isn't the way to do it if you ask me. Not a fan of the red all over the bay either if I'm honest. Don't get me wrong, that is a build of epic proportions, but for a couple of hours and a just a few quid more, that could have been perfect.

Just the seal, no need for sealant.