seanl82

Yep, normal.

There should be a little bracket with a hole in on the flap (think yours is missing) that goes into the square hole above and to the left of the cap in the picture. It locks by a sliding bar into the hole in the bracket. You cant lock the car from the inside. Apart from putting the lock pin down on each door, but it won't activate the central locking. 1. New headlight required as the bracket is part of the back assembly. 2. Yes 3. Check the new assembly manually. If you remove the cover where the interior light is, you will see an allen key type tool. It fits into the little hole at the back and in the middle of the motor. Be careful though as sometimes when the mech breaks, one side will push up when sliding forward, and will scratch the sunroof panel from the outside. 4. As already mentioned. 5. As already mentioned. 6. Get either Audi TT or two VW Lupo GTI drivers side wipers. Much much better than the standard ones! 7. Not sure if still available from the dealership but I think so, were around £55 per set previously. Some decent reproduction ones on ebay apparently, although I can't confirm personally having never tried them.

Not usually a locking fuel cap. The flap locks with central locking so no need unless yours isn't working? First aid kit is a bonus that its there. Sometimes fetch silly money on ebay for originals, even though they're unusable now as they're obviously out of date! There should be a warning triangle in between the seat backs in a zipped compartment too.

Door handle can be secured by tightening the screw in the door jam just behind the handle itself. Tailgate trim is secured by quarter turn screws, which are not available and as they're soft plastic, most are in a pretty poor state so may be hard to get hold of the screws. Probably easier to get a second hand replacement trim with screws in place, though not sure how good they'll be. And no, parcel shelf 6x9s are not standard.

Not advertised for Corrado but someone else on here mentioned them being the same part number and being perfect, so I bought a set and I can confirm, they are perfect. Cheap too! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271713638194?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Rog Chatfield is still a mod on the CRX OC iirc. A few I know have come a soft spot for a Corrado too! CCoincidentally, I had a little play with a CRX on Tuesday as well. Nothing in it tbf, little pocket rockets those things! With regard to the hheadlight, there is a third screw accessed by a long Philips Screwdriver in the slam panel in the middle area of the headlight. There are always things to do but hopefully nothing terminal for you. Where are you located? As far as a service goes, I'm sure someone close by will give you a hand and show you the basics for a bacon butty! Parts and fluids can be had relatively cheaply so be a shame to fork out for something that's easily achieved by an enthusiastic diy'er, once shown how. :thumbleft: Oh, and directional dials are very common problems indeed. Unfortunately there's no easy, or certainly not cheap fix. If the teeth on the dial mech have broke, second hand ones arch fetching around £90! The cause is usually a stiff bowden cable though, so just replacing the dials will also kill them in short order. Bowden cable replacement is much more fiddly and time consuming.

There's an RR session at Stealth on the same date, sponsored by the VR6OC. Quite a few going and a few from here also. Why don't you get yourself along to there if you're not too far away? Mostly golf's, but a few of us here going to make it a worthwhile mini meet.

Grrrrr, wish I was around for this.......

A thumbs up and some very enthusiastic nodding from a guy in a very nice E30 BMW on the M27 today.

Dead battery. You have enough juice to light everything, but the current demand of the starter shuts everything down. Very apparent in this weather especially.

Not good to hear mate. Give it a few days before jumping into something youbmay regret. It's a fair amount of work but if you can find someone close by that knows what they're dodington the cheap, you may think differently.

It's just a circlip holding it in place. 5 minute job to replace no bother. From what I understand, nothing actually breaks on them, it's just a potentiometer inside giving variable resistance based on the position of the piston. I think to refurbish them it's just a case of re-soldering dry joints. I don't know how to disassemble the unit though as I've not looked, but imagine it's a simple procedure. Worth a try whatever the outcome I reckon.

I believe DG Autotech refurbish them if you're in no rush. They are obsolete now but DG offer them with a lifetime warranty iirc.

Just pull the injectors and sit them in a small plastic bottle or glass jar, then turn the ignition to position 2. Fuel pump will prime and you can observe spray patterns, and see how much each one is putting out by how full the bottle/jar is when it finishes.

Also cheaper than RSs too! Are you getting to the point where your expecting to spend on the car as you're so used to it, even if it doesn't really need it Chris!? :lol:

Swap the spade connectors from side to main on the one that wrong?........

Rust on arches, bumpers have small scuffs, doors have car park dings, bonnet stone chipped, scratch on tailgate, wheels need refirb, but the rest of the exterior is in great condition......... the roof? :lol: I may have added some of those above by the way......

Haha, he's even called Barry! https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=AsjPVNGHN_Cf7gai6IGQAg&url=http://www.barryboys.co.uk/&ved=0CB0QFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGNp22ZFtlfQ5Y_bMpACxL7uheADg

It would work on your handbrake trim perfectly well. I refreshed mine and there's not a mark on it now. If your after some leather trimmed A,B&C pillars though that have already been done, I could oblige!?

It does but you need more coats. I wouldn't put it on high friction areas of plastic either as it will wear. My b pillars were hacked to death when I got the car so have black replacements. The paint has worn off just below the drivers side belt guide through friction.

They colour matched mine. I sent them my headrest to match as it's not an area that gets sun bleached or worn much.

Mine was yes. Some say to hire a compressor but I did it with the kit provided and it worked perfectly well, although I'd suggest getting 1 or 2 more air tins. I left about a third in each one to maintain a good pressure. I also went with satin rather than matt clear coat but it's your choice with the finish you want.

Sure. Only thing is my interior is beige, but gives you an idea of what can be achieved. I used the furniture clinic kit. Before. (When I bought the car). http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=79984&p=960492&viewfull=1#post960492 After a bit of a clean! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=79984&p=960728&viewfull=1#post960728 New leather sewn in on the bolsters. (Different colour so you'll see the change after restoration) http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=79984&p=990612&viewfull=1#post990612 Finished article, including some befores again. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=79984&p=1026569&viewfull=1#post1026569

Do the lot Pete. I did my entire interior, and the leather paint was suitable for vinyl too which the other parts will be. Even works on plastics which is spot on. When you apply the abrasive cleaner you should get some paint transfer onto the scotch pad if that's the kit you have. That's when you know you've got the clear coat off. You won't get any transfer if it's vinyl, and you'll be able to tell when scrubbing as the leather will absorb it and feel softer.

The mk3 mech is slightly different. It doesn't have the hooks to raise the panel when in the tilt position and doesn't have the means to fit them. The bits Daren is after can be used though. It's what I used to repair mine.