seanl82

I went with a plastic one when I rebuilt my engine too. Figured it had lasted 20 years, a replacement will last at least a few more!

I thought it looked odd, but couldn't put my finger on why! Good spot! Got to admit though, she still has a cracking arse! :lol:

I don't think it's so much to do with year, as it is to do with engine. Early valvers are less sought after than late, but G60s bring the year thing up. A VR6 of any year seems to be more desirable than most, although there is obviously an overlap with G60/vr6 based on condition. Decent parts are more scarce on early models, but for some unknown reason tend to be cheaper.

There's a SS one available from the UK on ebay for about £65 delivered I linked into a thread a couple of weeks ago. Have a look in ebay & misc section, I'm on my phone so can't copy and paste from eBay for some reason, but its on my watch list!

From last years National Day. Not too keen on the wheels if I'm honest though, would prefer it on the originals.

No need to worry and appreciate the honesty mate. If you move onto something else in future, just a mention of how helpful us Corrado forum folk are, can only be of benefit to the forum or owners in general further down the line.

That would be what I'd do if I wanted to clean it up back there. If you want to go back, is easy to do afterwards then. The VW badge would be the only thing difficult to put back if it was removed and smoothed.

Think it's Carlsberg mate! Lol Seriously bud, let me see what I have first. I'll have a good look around my store and the garage on Friday. I'm a serial horder so if some of the parts can be made use of due to unscrupulous sellers taking advantage, which I was on the receiving end of too by the way, them I'm only too happy to help. :thumbleft:

The VR6 badge can be removed easily. It's just stick on. The Corrado script badge has pins that go through the panel, as does the rear VW badge which is recessed as well, so removing that will leave a big round hole about 5mm deep.

Am I the only person a the planet who thinks the Daytona is just a bit plain??? Looks like it could have been designed by Triumph............... :shrug: For me, the SL300 Gullwing is by far the best looking classic car ever built.

Yeah I'd say silver for Blackberry. Mine are yellow though so I may not be the best person to ask! :lol:

Wayne, I have VAGCOM so I'll scan your car at the weekend for you too. Also have a 2x2 lead to scan it if required. Bought the 2x2 adapter from ebay for about £3! I had a U281 code reader similar to the one in the link when I had my mk3 Golf. Was a decent bit of kit for the the money, though only gave basic diagnostics so not sure how useful it'll be on OBD1 cars.

I'm in the middle of retrimming mine at the moment. As said about the sunroof/light switch, also visors, grab handle, a,b,c pillar trims, the remove the rear trim which should just pull down. The headlining will then slide out of the boot. The front trims are often a nightmare to remove as they're bonded on due to cowboy screen fitters using far too much sealant.

I have Giorgia. Turned out to be the fusebox to light loom, and the light itself was broken too. The pins on the light unit were loose where the solder had broken down on the pcb.

You have the later style sunroof controls is is. Press up for up, pull back for back. If you have an immobiliser, you should have a little red bit on your key where it faces into the ignition. You also have the tilt bit on your seat missing. I may have one of those too but will have to check.

Not a problem mate! :thumbleft:

I have an eyebrow too I think, unless I binned it. You can have it free if I do, although it has a few small holes where the previous owner bodged it by securing to the headlight surrounds with self tappers!

I have a debadged grille I no longer use Wayne. Try before you buy at the weekend if u like!

Check your oil pump pickup, mine was cracked where the previous owner had run the car too low.

I still watch it come up in the rear view after owning one for 4 years! Lol.

If it's loosing coolant quickly, just use tap water temporarily until it's sorted. You'll only have to replace the lot anyway once it's fixed as there won't be much anti freeze left if your constantly topping up. possible causes are radiator, hoses, or crack pipe from around that area. Keep a close eye on it if I were you until it's fixed. Again mate, if you're comfortable with it until Sunday we can have a good look over and I'll point you in the right direction. Saves a few pennies in garage labour too!

If you can nurse it down at the weekend Wayne, I'll go through everything with you and we can give the car a bit of a healthcheck mate.

I agree tbh. For something so critical, I'd go for OE all day long if available. I think it's a reasonable price though considering. I'm sure the seller won't be making any money as the parts and head refurb would have cost that, so your getting the labour for free tbh.

I'd say yes and no to the previous post Max. Trust me, if you remove the bumper, then remove the centre bolt, the crossmember will drop. It's the inner bolt that holds the crossmember to the rad support iirc. I turned mine upside down and stood on the end when I replaced the bushes. It allowed me a couple of turns to mount them together before nipping up to the correct level.

Look like legal pressed plates. Available from Dubmeister I believe.