seanl82

I got my replacements from eBay for about £6 and they turned out to be genuine. Either veedubmachine or B&B components. Both have websites too.

VR for the win.

Thats gutting mate. Hope you get em all out. Carpet should be easy enough to replace thankfully. Either a good used one, or VW Heritage now sell decent aftermarket ones. The seat foam may be more problematic. Either a set with knackered bolsters that you can Rob the bases, or a retrimmer may be able to cut you a new set. Fingers crossed no other electrical problems occur mate. :thumbleft:

No, no crack pipe on the KR unfortunately.

Chazrad, the felt seal is the inner or outer seal that runs round the window. Not cheap! The one thar seals the door to the body is called the door aperture seal and are £75 each from Heritage. I also bought these and they are perfect. Door now shuts with a reassuring thunk!

Hi Wendy. I recently had my car resprayed so I feel your pain! I sourced a few of the items you require from various places, but VW Heritage is probably your best bet. The scraper seals are no longer available from VW iirc. They are called scraper or slot seals. They are both available from VW Classic parts via Heritage, and are in the region of £45 each. The sunroof seal is also available from there, although I got mine from ARZ Tuning. I did this as I also needed the wing mirror seals which were only available from ARZ, so got the sunroof seal here to justify the price of the shipping as they are based in Germany. (Was almost 30 Euros!). Door sills I'm not sure of tbh as I re-used mine, and rub strips likewise. Roof strips are obsolete, they are not available aftermarket, and you'll pay a fortune to anyone willing to part with a new or used good condition set. If the inner seal bit has perished on yours, my advice would be to just cut it off and be done with it. If you're willing to pay out for a new set, put up a wanted post on here would be the best bet. I'm pretty positive you'd be very hard pushed to find the sunroof cables, so your only option is to find a second hand one, or alternatively a moonroof from a B3? Passat, or Mk3 Golf. There are a few threads regarding swapping and which ones fit. Indicators as you've said can be had second hand, but be sure the seals are intact. Good aftermarket ones are available though.

I'm from Bristol Sean! Suppose you could call me Taff..............

You're all a bunch of miserable Northerners to me! Anything above the M4 is northern in my Book! :lol:

Release bearing. Are you paying someone to do it Matt? If not, get the proper sealant for the chain covers too.

Click on Forum at the top. Scroll to the bottom, under spam-omatic is the corrado forum statistic information

Probably been on here quite a while, but I'm not very observant so I've only just seen the statistical information at the bottom of the home page.......... Anyway, my question is, what constitutes an active member? I'm assuming its someone who has logged on or posted within a certain period? Almost 25k members with almost 1k active. Think the forum is doing alright considering! :thumbleft:

Yeah I expect it does mate. :censored:

Drain by removing the bottom rad hose, then refill as you described with the top rad hose off, until water reaches that level. Put the hose back on, and top up to max on the expansion tank. Start engine and get up to temp, leaving the expansion tank cap off. Put heater on hot and full blow, then go round squeezing the hoses. I rev to 2.5k rpm for 30 seconds, then massage the hoses for 30 secs. Repeat half a dozen times, switch off the engine and replace the expansion cap. When cool, top up to max and all should be good.

Its only maybe 5mm away iirc. If the sensor has been pushed home, and the securing bolt is on with the body of the sensor flush to the hub, then that shouldn't be a problem. Its worth getting it on diagnostic to give you an exact cause, but if you're sure its the front sensors again, disconnect the cable at the turret, and check resistance with a multi-meter. (A cheap £5 meter will do the job and well worth investing in). The resistance of the sensors should be Approx 1.1 KOhms. High, low, or wavering from one extreme to the other are indications the sensor is faulty.

The RR day Jamie? Not at all mate. Not sure where would be best to meet though as I'd assume you would take the M25/M40, where as I'd be going A34 and joining the M40 at Bicester. Happy to come across a little if you like though mate. You don't have to be a VR6oC member, as the original call was to invite forum members from here too. I don't think there are any spaces left for the RR though tbh. If you do want to run, its likely there'll be the odd spot at the end of the day though. Usually a couple can't run for one reason or another, or some can't make it at the last minute. There are 5 reserve spaces for these, but its possible they could fit you in if you want to have a go. Its only £25 for 2 power runs so if you can, its worth it just to stick in your history folder! - thats what I'm doing anyway.

Looks cracking that. ;)

Cheers chaps. Rob, its one of the thin vertical fins that reinforce the horizontal slats. Its not immediately noticeable, but if looking directly at it, you would see its missing. Finish is excellent other than that. They said it was like it when they received it. I'm pretty positive it wasn't though.........

Got the grille back today. One of the fins has snapped though. Which has ****ed me off a bit. There was also a blue valver in after some rear end damage as well. Picked up the top mounts and stuff from TPS too. I feel really seen off paying £85 for this little lot. Doesn't even look good quality to me........ Cold and tired, so I may be just being a bit negative and miserable.......... (sigh)

I've got to agree with Jamo here. How none of them realised the reference to the plate and significance is utter tosh. All that and the "coincidence" of them going to Argentina shouldn't leave any doubt in anyone's mind that it was intentional. As I said before though, I don't think it was staged, they just didnt bank on there being such an aggressive reaction.

Thanks Rob, likewise mate. I don't know why, I've seen enough of the pics on your gallery thread but I had it in my head your car was aqua blue!! :bonk: DBP is a great colour though, my old valver was this colour but wasn't a patch on yours mate. :thumbleft:

Just had an email saying the B12s will be in stock ready to ship on 19th. Boooo! Picking up front top mounts tomorrow, and rears should be with me in the next couple of days. Also finally picking up my painted grille tomorrow so I'll bang it straight in and get a phot up.

My old ones were held on with the stickle brick type velcro stuff to the underside of the glove box, and the outer kick plate on the drivers side. (Where abs ecu is on the other side).

The two outer 17mm bolts secure the bumper to the crossmember through the chassis legs. This obviously gives added strength so if they're removed, all that's holding the cross member on is the 15mm centre ones to the chassis legs on captive nuts.

Rog, when the bumper is removed the front cross member is only held on by a single bolt either side. The cross member supports the front engine mount and it'll tip forward if the bolts fail.

http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/topic/45686-rr-day-stealth-1st-march-2015/