seanl82

Looks smashing Chris! :thumbleft:

Unless he's talking about vandalism, you are doing absolutely nothing wrong. The fact is that if your car has a valid MOT, it's been deemed close enough to manufacture standard noise level for the rest station not to mention it by failing or advisories. Worst case is that you're made to get a report from a valid test station, but probably nothing to worry about and I'd post a copy of it through his letterbox with a "politely" worded letter.

The ones pictured a different to the Corrado unfortunately. I need one too. Perfect candidate for 3d printing if anyone wants to take on the task??????

Guys, the OP on the VR6OC has asked if anyone here is interested, they need to get over there and register, put a post on the newbs hangout with some pics, then register interest on that thread. Change in goal posts I know but it'll only take 5 minutes to do. 7 spaces left I believe, with 4 reserves.

£25 for 2 power runs and a print out I believe.

Have you reversed the polarity Hasan? It only works one way.

When I bought my car it had half of the bottom of the airbox missing! It sounded great, but for obvious reasons I didn't want it to stay that way. I replaced it with a good standard airbox and I was honestly underwhelmed by the noise, and it felt much more flat too. I've replaced it again but this time with a BMC, and it sounds just like the hacked one, but obviously a lot safer! BMC all the way!

The ones in the suppliers forum with OE connectors is well recommended Jim. Not sure if theyre still on offer, but they have male connectors for the trigger so no plugs left open to the elements. It uses micro relays so I just pushed them up under the battery bag to keep,warm and dry. Only slight negative is that as it's a commercial loom, every mm costs, and it could do with maybe 50mm extra to the negative battery terminal to make it easier and tidier when routing. I had thought of making my own, but for the price I couldnt have made one much cheaper with the connectors. It met my very high standard of workmanship on the wiring too. It is very well made indeed!

I would Jim. Moisture is paints worst enemy when spraying, and water traps cost literally a couple of quid.

Have a search online for reviews of the companies remaps on N/A engines. Lots offer the service but only some can do it to a good standard. There are so many variables due to different characteristics of different engines, and you may end up with poor or aggressive power delivery or throttle response, or power coming in in a smaller or unusable rev range. If done right, it'll reduce the flat area in the lower revs and give a smooth but quicker throttle response.

Hmmmm, 140k or 155k? No rust, or a little bit of rust?

Service history? Receipts for work? Chains done? number of owners? There are a huge amount of variables that affect the price. More info is needed than this I'm afraid. If you put some pictures up of the car with close ups of interior, exterior and engine bay, you're more likely to get a accurate value, and certainly more likely to get a decent price at sale. Look on ebay, gumtree, pistonheads, Autotrader, etc etc, and on here for cars similar to yours. That'll give you an idea of what to expect.

Hes on the spectators list. Will it be ready in time!...................... Mic, Sean_Jaymo and Hoffmeister on on there too. Its us four one after another!

Guys and gals, the VR6OC have organised a RR day as in title. It's a Sunday as thats the only day Stealth do these block bookings on the rollers. They seem to be struggling for numbers as there will be 25 slots with 5 reserve. There are currently 8 slots still available if you want to roll, but even if not there are a few of us from here attending, so would be good for just a general meet and to have a nosey if you don't. Get yourself over there and get those slots booked up! :thumbleft:

Oooh looks very tidy in that bay! Great colour too. :norty: The lead guides look custom though. I'd assume they split, or leads are accessed from below but it certainly makes the bay look very tidy indeed. Tons of work required to get an engine bay like that though and a PITA should something go wrong! Not sure what gearbox is mated to that one either but its not standard. Throttle body has been changed to allow for accelerator cable to be re-routed, and I'd certainly never put my air filter right above the downpipe! :bonk:

Cracking work there! Where did you get the hubs and abs rotors from?

Where are you located mate?

1.8 would be my choice of the two, but if you're handy with a spanner, fitting the 1.8 cams to the 2.0 makes a huge difference, and you'll up the performance to around 160 bhp going on what others have posted. I test drove a 2.0 when I first got into the cars about 4 years ago. I was left very underwhelmed if I'm honest. The 1.8 felt much more spritely although most performance is delivered higher up the rev range. The early cars (1.8 16v) are cheaper to buy parts for even though its harder to find them as there are less around. Late (2.0 16v) are far more numerous for parts, but they do command a premium to be honest. I'd suggest a drive of as many as possible different engine types, and see which suits your driving style best.

Have a search, (I can't be arsed) as someone else had this problem with their VR6 iirc. If you turn the engine off, then re-start it goes back to reading correctly I think it was. Very strange and I'm not sure they ever got to the bottom of it...........................

I'm off in April mate. I'll have to stop by before I go if its unlikely you'll be ready to take the car out before then.

Looks a cracker Daren! Never seen a picture of the corner plastics let alone seen them fitted! Look forward to catching up soon mate. :thumbleft:

Well backed up Sean. I agreed with you on the principle, and did have a quick look for my course handout for hydraulics to back it up. I couldn't find it, and I'll be damned if I could remember anything like to this level of detail without researching! Hats off to you Sir! :salute:

The securing bolts on the wishbones have a nasty and quite frequent habit of shearing. The wishbones themselves are readily available aftermarket. Lots recommend R32 rear bushes, although I have no experience personally. The wishbones are available with these fitted from veedubmachine iirc. Its your call to replace just the bushes and doing it in situ, or removing and/or replacing the wishbone tbh mate.

What do people plug the rocker with when it's removed?

You can get adaptors for the 2x2 from ebay for about £2! They will work as they should with vcds or Rosstech software. The Rosstech software is free to download, its the hardware you have to pay for. Ebay sellers advertise vagcom cables for varying prices that work with the Rosstech software, but are illegal as its copywrite infringement................