DriverVR6

Abdul, I've dropped you a PM with a question.

Did you copy mine you pirate?? lol.....Should have told you that I patented mine lol Pictures of yours???

Karl, I set mine at 0.8mm. Standard spec is 0.7mm. You should only increase the plug gap if your ignition system is in A1 condition, or you'll just get misfiring. I increased plug gap on a Golf GTI once and it was terrible! Turned out to be a "weak" coil. ---------- Post added at 1:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:11 PM ---------- Right, I've taken the 90mm front splitter off as there are just too many speed bumps by me now. I didn't want to ruin the 90mm splitter, so I've put the 50mm one on. The 90mm definately looks better, but the 50mm one just makes it more convenient to drive without worrying all the time about scrapping the front splitter! I will put some photos up later.

Jay, going right back to the beginning of your thread I'm looking at the 4th photo (rear of the car) It looks lob sided to the right. Was there a problem with the car, or is it just the way the photo was taken?

I'm after VR6 early spec interior parts. Specifically dashboard switches (fog lights, rear demister, etc). Indicator/MFA stalks. Front and rear door cards. I'm not after the seats, carpets, trims plastics, etc. Let me know what you have.

If you are going to keep the car longterm, and it is a "good one" then keep it standard. Or only do stuff to it that is easily reversible back to standard with no damage, for example, no holes drilled in it, parts cuts, etc. If you don't believe me that a standard original car will always be worth more, then take a look at the following. The original 1968 Ford Lotus Twin Cam Escortis worth/up for sale for £65,000. The modified orange Ford Escort MK1 1968 on page two is up for grabs for £10,000. A car which becomes a classic will always be worth substantially more in original spec than a modified one. And if a car has "history", for example if it was a works competition car, or owned/driven by someone famous, then the price goes through the roof. http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/list.asp?g=1&s=45&filter=TP&o=p&pc=&min=&max=&txt=&px=&p=1&pagesize=15&xsl=list&y1=&y2=&d=0&dist=&nodays=0 http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/list.asp?g=1&s=45&filter=TP&o=p&pc=&min=&max=&txt=&px=&p=2&pagesize=15&xsl=list&y1=&y2=&d=0&dist=&nodays=0

Keep your chin up, and hopefully you'll find something soon. ATB.

With a mountain bike you need to go for the smallest frame you feel comfortable on, and with plenty of seat post exposed. Road bikes are slightly different, ie larger frame and less seat post exposed. That's a very rough sizing guide, as captainredeye says, different bike manufacturers have different geometry/measurements. So it's best to try several bikes and sizes until you find one that you are comfortable with. Concentrate on the spec of the frame, as the components can be upgraded, just like on a car. Wait until you start trying to pick a comfortable saddle, that's when the fun really begins. lol.

I've always gone for single electrode sparkplugs whenever possible, for all the cars I have owned. I find that multi-electrode sparkplugs are fine if you just want to stick them in and forget about them. However, for power/performance, you can't beat a good set of properly gapped single electrode plugs.

Well done on todays progress. Going on step betond just the routine maintenance is how you keep a Corrado (or any old vehicle) in tip top driving condition, and yours is definately in top condition.

Managed to get the service done today. No issues and everything went as planned. I used Champion EON2 spark plugs the last time. They have worked a treat, no misfires or fouling at all, and 100% reliable. So I went for the same spark plugs again this time. Only downside to them is that they are not available individually and only come in a pack of 4 plugs. So last time I had to buy 2 packs, so I ended up with 8 plugs in total. So this time I had to buy 1 pack of 4, and used the 2 plugs I had left over from the previous purchase, lol.

I don't think this is just simply not doing an oil change even though it says 60k with no oil changes. It looks like the oil has reacted or been contaminated. I read a really good article a while ago which was put together by a group of oil engineers. It talked about caking and sludge, which seems to affect some engines/manufacturers more than others. It was a really interesting article, and made me take notice. I'll see if I can find the article.

I think the VR6 comes with Sachs/Boge as standard fitment.

I've not had Bilsteins on a Corrado, but I have used them in a couple of rear wheel drive vehicles and the ride quality was very very good, but rear end traction under power was not great. A Corrado is obviously front wheel drive, so that shouldn't be a problem. Bilsteins are very good established dampers with a long motorsport history, and from a build quality point of view, they are bullet proof. I've never used APEX springs, so can't comment.

davidwort, that's exactly what I was about to say. Okay they would not be original, but at least you can keep the car on the road and use it.

"so stem seals/guides need doing, which i not happy about as the engine was supposidly re-built when i bought it??" Always the risk you run when buying used parts, I always try to buy new or from sources I trust 100%.

Karl, the best way, if you want to be 100% certain, is to use a dial gauge. When the head is off, use the dial gauge to find TDC. Then mark your front pulley to make is easier in the future. That's how engine builders do it. If you're not sure how or what I mean, then give me a bell. (I do have a dial gauge, just need to find where I put it, unless someones borrowed it and not returned it !) Top dead centre for the cams, as floppyman says, is by using the locking tool.

VWVW, many thanks for the rad elbow, I'll post it back to you as soon as I'm finished with it.

I've seen the "TAH" prefix on another VW Corrado part, but I can't remember what it was, but something makes me think it was an exterior trim piece....

Here you go, screwed off, and then screwed back on. My VR is a 93 model, it has early interior, and late exterior. Not sure if that would make a difference.

Well they're the ones on mine, they screw down onto the strut thread which protrudes above the top nut. I'll screw one off and put a picture up.

Sorry I couldn't tell you as they were on the car when I bought it....12 years ago...

Genuine VW ones, Part number TAH 1H0 412 359

I have a pair on my VR6, I'll get the part number and post in a bit.

I bought all the stuff on Monday to do the lubrication and coolant service, but yesterday it was pouring with rain and today it's snowing!!