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davidwort

davidwort's 16v - looking a bit shinier

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Yep wish i had the balls to paint mine my self , i think if the car didnt mean as much id have a go and probably emd up coming out quite nice , but because i know i love the car it would end up going tits up lol

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Looks great, David! I've been debating tackling my spare bumper with rattle cans after watching various guides on the net. That looks like a very professional finish though - did you setup a DIY spray booth in the garage then?

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Yeah, did my polythene tent job in the garage again Jim, it's required a lot of tcut and fine wet and dry to get a really good flat finish I wanted, a big advantage of a solid colour is you can do that, and you could do a reasonable job with rattle cans, metallics are another thing though, the metallic is much more sensitive to mixing, thinner, delivery from the gun and humidity, you need a good finish from the gun and then ideally a clear coat on top.

So I'd imagine pretty hard to get a good metallic finish from rattle cans.

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I did a half body respray on my mums mk1 Mondeo (wings, bonnet and front bumper), funnily enough it a very close match to my Sherry Pearl so thankfully I've had a bit of practice with metallic red-based paint.

 

Thinning isn't too much of an issue as long as you make sure you use the right thinners for the paint (celly vs 2 pk/basecoat) Ideally you want 60/40 but after a while you get a feel for the paint. The delivery of the paint as David says is the next issue, all depends on the pressure and the gun itself. You want a small nozzle 1.4mm and reasonable pressure, but it all depends on the thinning ratio. A clear coat is a must on metallic paint to really get the best finish and to protect the paint. Unfortunately even with all that taken into consideration I'm still going to have to polish the whole thing with fine grit and polishing paste to get a really nice finish.

 

As David said, flat colours are so much easier, especially as there's not necessarily a need for a clear coat over the top, the clear coat I sprayed was pre mixed 1k so I had no control on the mixture and too forever to cure!

 

Eventually looking to do some bodywork on my VR, hopefully it'll come out as good as yours David!

 

On a side note, hopefully looking to book the beetle into your dad's garage next week - been on holiday so haven't had time! Did a full respray on that, but went with a flat matt colour to save on the polishing haha!

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Well mine's just racked up it's 21st MOT pass and no advisories, very pleased but the list of jobs continues as ever, sunroof panel lining material, blower fan on last legs, passenger door motor and it's looking like matrix time I think, then I really need to paint at least the drivers door and have a new Wing to go on, hopefully most can wait till I take it off the road for the winter.

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a few pics of the bumper back on

 

15061528002_6d1f44bb34_s.jpgNewly painted bumper by David0011, on Flickr

 

15061888775_9d35c685b3_s.jpg20140822_134807 by David0011, on Flickr

 

stainless screws for the brake duct fitting:

14875351417_6c5970b3c1_s.jpg20140822_134748 by David0011, on Flickr

14875359767_f410773d5e_s.jpg20140822_134711 by David0011, on Flickr

14875322928_a8054c5927_s.jpg20140822_134727 by David0011, on Flickr

 

lots of wax on the front panel:

15061550752_dd342036ba_s.jpg20140821_160339 by David0011, on Flickr

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Well mine's just racked up it's 21st MOT pass and no advisories, very pleased but the list of jobs continues as ever, sunroof panel lining material, blower fan on last legs, passenger door motor and it's looking like matrix time I think, then I really need to paint at least the drivers door and have a new Wing to go on, hopefully most can wait till I take it off the road for the winter.

 

nice that if flew through the mot again m8

 

front bumper looking good too :)

 

blower motor is an easy job & i can personally vouch for the fact its a massive improvement once you fit the £30 unit

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seems like it's a year since I did any work on the poor old girl, but with the weather improving I decided to use up some of the paint I had and do the drivers door.

It takes sooo much time but I fially got it back on the car yesterday afte a week of flatting and polishing due to my dubious spraying skills

flatting down:

17789193042_b8c15bebfb_z.jpg20150513_201742 by David0011, on Flickr

 

17171573613_1c5a0df9e6_z.jpg20150517_103818 by David0011, on Flickr

 

polished up:

17792344461_66a5dc458e_z.jpg20150517_154941 by David0011, on Flickr

 

back on and a reasonable match, shock, horror!

17789158242_86b8ac4d1f_z.jpg20150517_185551 by David0011, on Flickr

 

17171543033_da971fd44e_z.jpg20150517_185646 by David0011, on Flickr

 

17792330981_9f7295e17f_z.jpg20150517_185701 by David0011, on Flickr

 

next job is the bonnet, should keep me quiet for the rest of the year :)

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Finally got around to starting the bonnet, but beginning the prep I realised I couldn't avoid the dreaded under bonnet foam

17850532578_d247642d0e_z.jpgCorrado bonnet stripped of sound insulation by David0011, on Flickr

 

17850527468_3bca6e5ce6_z.jpgCorrado bonnet stripped of sound insulation by David0011, on Flickr

 

17850525448_ca297d9929_z.jpgCorrado bonnet stripped of sound insulation by David0011, on Flickr

 

18038412475_9c07ae5ccd_z.jpgCorrado bonnet stripped of sound insulation by David0011, on Flickr

 

foam just fell off, glue came of fairly easily with petrol, messy but didn't take too long, plastic socket tag used as a scraper worked well :)

Edited by davidwort

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nice work on the door bud, what we diy'rs lack in spraying skills make up in flatt and polishing :)

when i removed my bonnet foam i used a tar and glue remover , came off pretty good!

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I've got 2 pack black paint for the bonnet sat in the garage, don't know if I'm brave enough to use it, not from the health side but the last time I tried to cut back 2 pack lacquer I was there for days lol, cures so hard

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Go for it! i was going to mention about the work your putting in with cellulose you could be putting in with a 2k single stage for a longer lasting harder wearing finish but ya know. give it 24hrs to cure then wetsand it with 1500 and machine buff with a compund for 1500 scratchs, i.e farecla g3 or 3m's green fast cut,

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well, primed and 2k gloss black, few minor faults but nothing that won't flat out, pretty pleased TBH always paranoid the 2k is going to go off in the gun before I've done the second coat

18107563396_602591e05b_z.jpgCorrado bonnet primed by David0011, on Flickr

 

17511492774_5c488a8414_z.jpgCorrado bonnet 2k black painted by David0011, on Flickr

 

17946195468_fbf4c6b0bc_z.jpgCorrado bonnet 2k black painted by David0011, on Flickr

Edited by davidwort

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good job! yea i know what you mean, i had that feeling of wanting it out my gun, but you got plenty of time so dont even think about it , all paint manufacturer's have a "TDS" technical data sheet, and it will specify all the things like that and how to prep it and what its aloud to be put on top of etc etc, if you dont have a tds for that paint then ask them to email it as its worth a nosey,

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I love this painting, nice job... i want to be able to do it.

 

Are you using a spray gun and compressor?

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I love this painting, nice job... i want to be able to do it.

 

Are you using a spray gun and compressorholes..

 

I've a cheapish draper hvlp spray gun and a nice big 3hp sealey compressor I bought second hand, cost me about £250 all in with hoses connectors, water traps etc, paint works out about £25 per panel maybe less

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Awesome. Would you be interested in taking on some paid work, and doing a bonnet, slam panel and front / rear bumpers David?! ;)

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I've a cheapish draper hvlp spray gun and a nice big 3hp sealey compressor I bought second hand, cost me about £250 all in with hoses connectors, water traps etc, paint works out about £25 per panel maybe less

 

nice!

 

i like your makeshift spray booth too :) do you have the polythene sectioned area ventilated? if not, do you do a 'spray & run' when working with 2 pack? lol

 

i have helped with the prep work on camper vans many a time as my friend hires one out to the public & restores them & seeing your good work here is making me think about a similar setup once ive built my garage

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I've a rectangular frame with fine fly-screen material in it to let air in to the 'tent' and some large diameter aluminium foil ducting sucking air out via a twin fan setup from a mk3 golf :lol: - put an old T-shirt over the inlet to the ducting to trap most of the paint, doesn't really keep up with all the overspray/fumes but it helps,

I should really have an air fed mask (would need a second compressor for that and breathing quality filters £££) but for now as I've done mostly cellulose paint so I've just used a good quality 2 stage vapour mask and sealed goggles and a disposable suit.

 

Jim: it's the preparation that's the main problem, I've spent days and days doing the panels and wheels I've done in the past, and then cutting back any flaws in the paint, which takes a fair amount of time too. The gloss black is pretty easy in that respect, as with no lacquer you can wet and dry and cut back any drips or dirt that gets into the paint.

I wouldn't fancy doing much metallic, I did the old 8v wing twice, sherry pearl (2nd time after my mrs scraped it! ) that was base and then clear coat, getting the metallic mix/appearance right is bad enough and then if you get a fly or fluff in the base coat metallic you are bu99ered :)

 

oh and I've just discovered these guys (I've bought paint from before) do a non-isocyanate hardener for 2 pack paint which would be even safer but you can still get the durability of chemical hardening paint:

http://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=161

Edited by davidwort

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your setup sounds decent, im making an extractor fan from an old washing machine motor {with long fan belt} rigged up to a 240v 3pin plug into a speed controller adapter, your fans rigged to a battery or mains adapter?

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I've an old car battery for the fan, only the belt driven fan is actually drawing air down the ducting so I don't have a motor sitting in the airstream/fumes

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I've a rectangular frame with fine fly-screen material in it to let air in to the 'tent' and some large diameter aluminium foil ducting sucking air out via a twin fan setup from a mk3 golf :lol: - put an old T-shirt over the inlet to the ducting to trap most of the paint, doesn't really keep up with all the overspray/fumes but it helps,

I should really have an air fed mask (would need a second compressor for that and breathing quality filters £££) but for now as I've done mostly cellulose paint so I've just used a good quality 2 stage vapour mask and sealed goggles and a disposable suit.

 

Jim: it's the preparation that's the main problem, I've spent days and days doing the panels and wheels I've done in the past, and then cutting back any flaws in the paint, which takes a fair amount of time too. The gloss black is pretty easy in that respect, as with no lacquer you can wet and dry and cut back any drips or dirt that gets into the paint.

I wouldn't fancy doing much metallic, I did the old 8v wing twice, sherry pearl (2nd time after my mrs scraped it! ) that was base and then clear coat, getting the metallic mix/appearance right is bad enough and then if you get a fly or fluff in the base coat metallic you are bu99ered :)

 

oh and I've just discovered these guys (I've bought paint from before) do a non-isocyanate hardener for 2 pack paint which would be even safer but you can still get the durability of chemical hardening paint:

http://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=161

 

nice i like it

 

thanks for the explanation

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I've an old car battery for the fan, only the belt driven fan is actually drawing air down the ducting so I don't have a motor sitting in the airstream/fumes

 

nice, my old house hold fan is absolutely mullard in overspray but it still goes strong, deffinatly rigging something up more permanent,

 

not sure what to make of that non iso paint, doesnt seem to be very popular , and for a 2.5L kit seems very cheap and its also unbranded, it does state cure and dry times are longer but thats not an issue for diy use but that would be an issue for bodyshops, for me my concern would be how long the gloss lasts, you know how much work goes into it and its almost like taking a risk..

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