Definitive 24v into a (VR) Corrado thread

[Kevin Bacon 5]

They're the same size throttle, but the MK5 one is apparently better. Stronger springs or something, but yeah, they're compatible across MK4/5 AFAIK.

 

The MK5 has the bigger MAF by default. The MK4 ECU needs remapping to run the bigger MAF unfortunately. I reckon a copy / paste of the MK5's fuel map over to the MK4 ECU is all that's required.

 

It's where the extra 10hp comes from between MK4 and MK5.

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

I finished the wiring last night and started her up this morning before going to work. She fired up immediately and idled perfectly, which was a big feckin relief as I frickin hate wiring!! :D VAG-COM link to the ECU all perfect and it revs up fine, so no issues detected at present. Gonna hopefully get it all back together and tidied up over the weekend, then can take it for a spin!

.

 

looking good dude, damn your lucky to have it fired up with no wireing problems,i think my wireing problems took a year or 2 off my life!! . so the first part of your loom you got going through the accelerator pedal hole? , i was going to use that for something but didnt bother in the end, come to think of it theres nothing stopping anyone from makeing that hole bigger either..

[Kevin Bacon 5]

looking good dude, damn your lucky to have it fired up with no wireing problems,i think my wireing problems took a year or 2 off my life!! . so the first part of your loom you got going through the accelerator pedal hole? , i was going to use that for something but didnt bother in the end, come to think of it theres nothing stopping anyone from makeing that hole bigger either..

 

Thanks mate. I can't take all the credit as Stealth did an excellent job of the loom modification and to be fair, I do have a fair bit of wiring experience under my belt now, despite hating it!! :lol:

 

Yeah, basically, my power loom goes off in 2 directions. All 4 lambdas and the evap valve plug go round the back of the ECU and through the hole in the scuttle. Then the fuse box loom (6 pedal wires, the ECU comms, the MAF power wire, the permanent live, the switched live, the fuel pump trigger wire etc) all drop down through the old throttle cable hole,which didn't need enlarging, just grommeted. It's how VW do it on the MK4/MK5, but rather than dropping through the hole, the plugs connect to a distribution panel under the wiper motor. To be honest, I couldn't really see any other way to do it neatly without chopping / shortening / lengthening. I haven't seen how SWICT prepared your looms, so can't really comment on how your installs went :D

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

swict had nothing to do with mine, Rubjonny from other VW forums was originaly gona do my loom but didnt realise how buisy he was and couldnt do it for atleast 3 months so i got another guy to do it thats friend of a friend but took just aslong as what john would of taken :( he prety much did most of it correctly apart from 2 wires which wernt hooked up,

also had to re arrange the whole thing but thats to be expected seeing as my car wasnt there.

if any one wants a moded loom give rub jonny a shout he knows his stuff! and doesnt charge the earth for what he does.

 

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?234432-Rubtechwerke-wiring-services!

 

what have you guys done about declareing an engine conversion?

, seeing as its still a 2.8 Vr6 engine iv put in ,

just change the engine number and inform my insurers its running an extra 10 horses?

Edited August 11, 2012 by VW_OwneR_85

[Fanjita 1]

Getting there guys!

 

I've still got this idle issue I was wondering if anyone had a similar problem. I haven't plumbed in the SAI dummy or the EVAP solenoid yet, but I don't really think they could be the cause. Basically it starts on the button and without problem. After around 1 min of idling the engine seems to roughen slightly (is that the switch to closed loop?) and the engine idle speed drops until its on the verge of cutting out. It then fights and chugs for a short while before bringing the idle back up and working fine thereafter. I have checked for vacuum leaks, error codes don't seem significant at all, I did have a hint at a lambda problem which appeared while I was plugged in and this idle problem showed up. I noticed the lambda values on vagcom were affected too, they went from the normal 0% to something like -1%. This was on both though, so it may be something else at fault. Any ideas?

[KipVR 1]

Have you checked the temperature sensor?

 

I've just started to get back into the wiring of mine following a big tidy up of the loom 18months ago. I've forgotten an awful lot, and was in such a hurry to complete it last time I didn't document it which I'm kicking myself for now.... I think it might come down to taking the loom out agin, documenting it all and putting it back in again. This might help a few people later on down the line I suppose?

[Fanjita 1]

Temperature sensor seems fine, the only thing I did notice was the r32 sensor was reading 10 degrees warmer than my gauge. The fans ended up kicking in when the ecu was reading 105 but all the other temp references were matching.

 

I will ask soon to add all the information I can to the 24v guide! Hopefully we can document everything so that future conversions can be done with ease.

[Fanjita 1]

As an extra, I thought a video would help so people can see how I fitted mine.

 

 

Have a look and tell me what you think!

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

took mine for a little drive today :) :) :) :) :)

very very happy with it and mines only the 2.8 BDE ! can only imagine what the 3.2 must feel like,

the sound is beautiful! makes the car feel lighter as the power just comes on, feels like a completley different car, so this is deffinatley a worth while conversion!shame the weathers turned to crap right now,

[lewvw 10]

Very impressive :) were the holes in the floor for the R32 throttle pedal? Is it easy to make the pedal neat and solid/secure?

[Swompy 0]

Looks good mate, loads of room between the rad and the engine, mine is so much tighter tho, hardly any room :shrug:

[quicky1980 0]

Fanjita, I may have missed it but how did you get the rev meter to work?

[Peebee 0]

As an extra, I thought a video would help so people can see how I fitted mine.

 

 

Have a look and tell me what you think!

 

Crackin little vid mate, conversions looking great. Relocating the battery to the boot is the way forward.

 

 

Will try to get a photo of my battery in the boot if you're interested.

[Swompy 0]

OOO details about the battery move would be good :D

[Peebee 0]

Ill take a few pictures then.

[Swompy 0]

Also any details about how you done it would be useful too ;)

[Fanjita 1]

Very impressive :) were the holes in the floor for the R32 throttle pedal? Is it easy to make the pedal neat and solid/secure?

 

Thanks :)

Yeah that was for the pedal, it seems very easy to locate. I haven't quite finished that job yet however, I've been working on the EVAP solenoid. There are 3 pegs under the pedal which need holes to locate them, the top recess has a hole for a bolt to go through. The bottom two fit into two pins on a bracket you can get from the dealer. At the moment I'm cutting the carpet using a template which I made to fit the pedal as tight as poss (I made it on card, is this something I could scan and share with others?). My idea is to drill a hole for the top part to bolt down, and let the carpet hold the bottom part firmly. We will see how that works out tomorrow.

 

Looks good mate, loads of room between the rad and the engine, mine is so much tighter tho, hardly any room :shrug:

 

That was down to trimming 15mm off the rear engine mount mate, I haven't seen how it sits without doing this but I do think it sits fine this way.

 

Fanjita, I may have missed it but how did you get the rev meter to work?

 

Can bus converter Sam, I wired it up pretty much the day after I got it. Its James btw :)

[Swompy 0]

Is that 15mm of the actual mount or or where the mount is attached to!

[Peebee 0]

Trimmed off the actual mount, well that's how mine went in.

[Fanjita 1]

Is that 15mm of the actual mount or or where the mount is attached to!

 

As Peebee said, off the actual mount!

 

Once you get the 3 bolts off the mount, it just slides out, its then a case of undoing an allen bolt (good luck!) on the underside then the mount slides apart. You are basically left with the bottom cap and inside there is a rubber cylinder with a metal shaft running through it. I then simply trimmed 15mm from the end of the rubber and then took 15mm off the shaft. As the shaft is threaded I drilled it a little deeper and retapped to allow the allen bolt to tighten up properly.

[Swompy 0]

Ahh cool. Does this work with VT mounts as thats what I have?

[Peebee 0]

Ok so please find 3 pictures, battery, fitting and engine bay.

The battery was fitted by drilling down and bolting through the plate bent 90 degrees. Where wiring is concerned, it was fed through the interior and to the engine bay. Same as a normal set up just longer leads.

 

Not the best how to I know but I hope it helped some what.

[quicky1980 0]

Thanks James, do you have any delay between the actual engine speed and the rev counter? Mine is slightly slow on the rev counter but your vid makes it look like its spot on. what did you use?

[bristolbaron 10]

You have a normal battery in the boot? And it's unboxed? :shocked!:

[Peebee 0]

It's still clamped down. ;)