neil20vtc 0 Posted October 9, 2014 Very nice mk2!! And a VRT in the future, good set of motors! What size Comps are they (17x7.5?) What size tyres are you running on them? Adam Cheers the mk2 will most likely go once the corrado is done currently using it all the time as for the comps 17x8 with 205/40/17 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted October 9, 2014 Good start on the strip down. I'd stick some rags down the inlet holes though before something gets dropped in there :) Rags were inserted just after the pic as well as tape across the exhaust ports thanks for the heads up though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerfish 10 Posted October 9, 2014 Rags were inserted just after the pic as well as tape across the exhaust ports thanks for the heads up though ah cool, the thought of something disappearing into one of them isn't a pleasant one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 10, 2014 i went as far as booking myself in to do a evening course at college doing tig welding so i can make my own downpipe plus i just think it would be something good to be able to do, but the original nite was full and the extra one they were going to put on didnt get enough numbers so im going to have to wait until feb to get started on that Good man, defo a good skill to have! Personally, I would get yourself a Clarke 135TE Mig welder from Machine Mart and learn with that. It's what I did and after welding a few bits of scrap together for practice, I was able to knock up my own exhaust sections for my R32 conversion. I think Tig is worth the investment if you're doing a lot of welding that will be on show, or tricky 6 branchers, otherwise Mig is plenty good enough for exhaust fabrication! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted October 10, 2014 (edited) Why do you recommend the 135te Kev? I've been looking into learning myself and most places I read and people I've spoken to have recommended the 151TE model. Would be good to have feedback on what others have experienced. Edited October 10, 2014 by Sean_Jaymo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted October 10, 2014 Good man, defo a good skill to have! Personally, I would get yourself a Clarke 135TE Mig welder from Machine Mart and learn with that. It's what I did and after welding a few bits of scrap together for practice, I was able to knock up my own exhaust sections for my R32 conversion. I think Tig is worth the investment if you're doing a lot of welding that will be on show, or tricky 6 branchers, otherwise Mig is plenty good enough for exhaust fabrication! yeah a local lad who has a vrt haldexed 4x4 caddy did all his own downpipe and even his tubular manifold with a mig as you say probably not the best for show stuff but he has it all heat wrapped so you cant tell anyway may have to ask the guy i rent the barn with if i can have a play with his mig welder, i decided to do tig as thats what the college suggested to me when i told them what i was after plus they said if i could tig i would soon get the hang of mig welding Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted November 28, 2014 not really done much on this got the box off which was a right mare by meself ill definatly be getting someone to help me put it back on! and all ready for stripping the head off but have been waiting the past few weeks for a load of parts to come from bar-tek in germany has anyone used them before? as im starting to get a bit worried, they say they are waiting for the manifold to arrive from the us before posting everything out to me cheeers neil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted January 25, 2015 well the parts turned up from bar-tek about a day or two after my last post so shouldnt have been worrying they consisted of a peloquin lsd,turbo manifold,470cc incectors,sachs sinter clutch kit,and a oil cooler kit and some arp head studs so after that arrived i had intended to get a couple of days on the car in a row over christmas so i could replace the chains and tensioners and install the arp studs and whack the spacer plate and gasket on whilst it was fresh in my head how it all came apart but this wasnt to be as the head was a bit crusty around the water ports so thought it be best to get it skimmed the machine shop gave me the head back and informed me that it needed new stem seals and the valves cleaning up and lapping in so thats what i have been upto this wekend cleaned the carbon off the valves with a wire wheel on a bench grinder at my freinds work he then kindly lent me the stem seal pliers and valve spring compressor to do the rest at home, new genuine stem seals are now in and valves are lapped in just need to refit all the springs etc some progress pics tensioner was about goosed! state of the head you can see where it has gone crusty from the coolant head studs in lapping the valves in new stem seals going in all of this is new to me by the way that i have never even removed a head from an engine before but im thouroughly enjoying doing it all and learning along the way neil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted January 25, 2015 Top work getting your hands dirty on this. Lapped some valves in years ago on an old BSA for my old man..... And there was only 4, not sure I'd want to do 12! Looking good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted January 25, 2015 I always put the wooden post in an electric drill on slow speed before finishing by hand. You can buy an oscillating valve lapper to do the job. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-G4095-Eezilap-Valve-Lapper-/281125002833?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41745b1e51 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted January 25, 2015 Yeah was fairly time consuming doing 12 wish I had thought of putting the stick in a drill could of made it a tad easier! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted January 26, 2015 Nice work mate good to see someone getting stuck in , i wish i had the bslls to do my head swap and change but i just know id **** the timing up and break it haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted January 26, 2015 Cheers and yeah it's the job I was least looking forward to doing but it seems to be going ok, I'm going to be extremely nervous when I start it up again for the first time! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted January 26, 2015 How easy/difficult is it to DIY lap in the valves? I've got a spare head that I wanted to recon before swapping it in for mine, and I'm just worried I'd create a worse seal than before! I want to give it a go though so I can say I've done the whole car myself, minus the head skim and probably honing the bottom end when I get round to that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 22 Posted January 26, 2015 How easy/difficult is it to DIY lap in the valves? I've got a spare head that I wanted to recon before swapping it in for mine, and I'm just worried I'd create a worse seal than before! I want to give it a go though so I can say I've done the whole car myself, minus the head skim and probably honing the bottom end when I get round to that. You cant really do any damage, boring and laborious done by hand but satisfying all the same Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted January 27, 2015 not really difficult just spinning a valve round stuck to a suction cup on a stick as Dox said it's more time consuming than anything Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lilfuzzer 1 Posted January 27, 2015 You cant really do any damage, boring and laborious done by hand but satisfying all the same agreed with dox although boring and time consuming it is very satisfying. sterling work jeff bet you are looking forward to getting the engine finished. what exhaust are you planning on running? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted January 27, 2015 OK thanks, seems I have been worrying over nothing. Sorry to clog your thread! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted January 27, 2015 I'm guessing your going to use a spacer plate? Something I have not seen yet is 4leaf clover shaped bores on the spacer to shape a combustion chamber type of thing If anyone knows what I mean? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted January 27, 2015 agreed with dox although boring and time consuming it is very satisfying. sterling work jeff bet you are looking forward to getting the engine finished. what exhaust are you planning on running? Yes May be a while before it's going again though have a house move soon and been told the house comes first! And was planning on making my own downpipe and will mate it up to the current exhaust to get it running then probably make a trip to pipewerx to get the rest of the system done in 3" OK thanks, seems I have been worrying over nothing. Sorry to clog your thread! No apology needed when the machine shop gave me the head back and said it needed lapping in I to was worried but after my mechanic friend explained it to me I felt better about doing it myself! I'm guessing your going to use a spacer plate? Something I have not seen yet is 4leaf clover shaped bores on the spacer to shape a combustion chamber type of thing If anyone knows what I mean? Yeah using a 1.5mm spacer plate, no idea about the 4 leaf clover thing though! Neil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted January 27, 2015 Reshaping that promotes swirl can help combustion More efficient burn etc I'm no race engine builder or anything but it's these little things that make a good difference There differnt heads but only pic I can find obviously it looks more like a heart shape Actually 4leaf clover applies to 4valve heads I think Just putting ideas out there Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coullstar 0 Posted January 27, 2015 If I had time this is what Id be doing. After my previous one the boost is addictive but this time Id try keep it sensible around the 300bhp mark as that just keep everything a lot more reliable and its still a bloody quick car. Well done for tackling it yourself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted January 27, 2015 Reshaping that promotes swirl can help combustion More efficient burn etc I'm no race engine builder or anything but it's these little things that make a good difference There differnt heads but only pic I can find obviously it looks more like a heart shape Actually 4leaf clover applies to 4valve heads I think Just putting ideas out there Interesting stuff didn't even know about stuff like this I've not seen any spacers for sale that are like that though If I had time this is what Id be doing. After my previous one the boost is addictive but this time Id try keep it sensible around the 300bhp mark as that just keep everything a lot more reliable and its still a bloody quick car. Well done for tackling it yourself. Cheers whether doing it all myself is a wise choice is yet to been seen but I'm enjoying it so far Managed to nip and do a bit after work got the springs and retainers back in bit fiddly but got there in the end Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted August 17, 2015 (edited) right been a while but started doing stuff on this again basically came to a standstill due to doing things on the new house,doing some work on my mk2 now that i have a garage and also making the mistake of telling the local lad who has been checking my box over and fitting the diff that i wasnt in a hurry due to moving into said house gave it to him in feb got it back last weekend! but now its back im cracking on with it and intend on the car coming to the new house in oct (when my rent on the barn where it is now runs out) whether that be by its own steam or on a flatbed! i finished my tig welding course and bought myself a welder but due to not having the box ive only been able to weld up the first 90 degree bend i can continue with the rest once the box is back on and the engine is back on its mounts got a mate coming to help me fit the box tomorrow after work so hopefully things can start progressing again i also made a start on fitting/refitting what i could to the engine before fitting the box, exhaust mani is on but due to its shape it needed some of the lower studs to be removed and chopped down also inlet is on but has required some fettling to fit, injector rail has also needed modding and just some general bits refitted some of which took some head scratching as its about a year since i took it to bits! oh and also fitted the walbro intank pump Edited August 17, 2015 by neil20vtc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil20vtc 0 Posted February 3, 2017 well think its about time i updated this! i got the box back and on the car and then the car got moved to my new house where i was able to crack on with it a bit better and also just nip in the garage for an odd half hour which wasnt worth doing when it was up at the barn fitted the turbo but the kinetic manifold i bought being intended for lhd meant the turbo inlet was inline with the master cylinder/resevoir someone on the vr6oc suggested making something to swing it up out of the way which i did made the downpipe and modified the heatshield cleaned the sump up a wee bit and welded a an fitting to it for the oil drain made a oil feed line for the turbo and fitted into t piece the short runner i bought ended up being for a obd2 car so i made an adapter so my obd1 throttle body would fit the rest of the photos have not been uploaded to photobucket yet so ill update with the rest tomorrow! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
