Renewing heater diverter flap lining

[Roger Blassberg 0]

I now have a heater blower arrangement which is useless on misty mornings. The foam lining of the diverter flaps is all breaking up, they don't move and seal as originally intend, and the rotary control is very stiff. So I need to re-line the flaps.

 

What material have people used for this purpose and where can I get it? I would also appreciate some guidelines on how to access the heater box. Is it a case of taking out the dashboard again?

 

How I wish I had done this when I had the matrix done a while ago!!

 

Thanks for any assistance

 

RB

[seanl82 23]

Have a search Rog, think it was Hofmeister that posted some pics of his all done. There's a guide in the wiki too for replacing the matrix which should give you an idea of how to access it, although I think to get the heaterbox out, it'll be dash out. There was also a thread recently about what to use to replace the foam seals. I think it was a.self adhesive wickes supplied stuff that was suggested, which is pretty much what I used when I did mine. I used heat reflective tape to cover the holes in the flap itself. No idea the reasoning for VW to use foam originally, but it seemed like a stupid idea to me, and I also have no idea why there are large holes in the flap in the first place.

[Riley 0]

I think the idea of the holes/foam is to allow a little air flow to pass, probably for less strain on the direction controls when adjusting and to allow slight ventilation to other area's at all times. If using rubber or similar I'd be inclined to pop a small hole or two in it.

 

I think people have used EPDM Rubber type stuff https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=epmd&rlz=1C1SVEE_enGB411GB411&oq=epmd&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.1360j0j7&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8#q=epdm+rubber Recently used some on my house lol, and the stuff I got was adhesive backed, but applied with heat it really sticks like sh|t to a blanket.

 

My Heater flap lining replacement, I used thin industrial carpet. Afterwards the clunk/direction change was very reassuring and the air flow was massively improved! Actually got better after a while, probably as the carpet bedded in around the sides. Probably something better for the job out there but I was trying to get the car back together asap at the time. Maybe Dynamat or something similar?

 

Heater direction control fix possibly also worth a read.

Edited December 10, 2014 by Riley

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Thanks for your advice. Plenty of useful references

 

RB

[Riley 0]

Something like this may be a good idea, could potentially be a bit of a longer lasting upgrade compared to the OE stuff? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-NEOPRENE-PLAIN-SPONGE-FOAM-RUBBER-SHEET-VARIOUS-SIZES-1-5mm-12mm-THICK-/141115616908?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item20db256e8c

 

Few other options too, there will definitely be something up to the job, main thing is not being too thick, being breathable (For where the three holes are), and being dense enough that it doesn't start to break up in small bits after a bit of use http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R4.TR11.TRC1.A0.H1.Xfoam&_nkw=foam+sheet&_sacat=0&_from=R40

 

Neil.

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Latest on this. Because of extreme stiffness in my heater controls (please, this IS a family friendly forum...)the direction dial had jumped a couple of teeth so I gritted my teeth and took out the dashboard centre console to investigate the workings of the dreaded Bowden cables and toothed wheels. To get the position right again I decided to disconnect all the cables and electrical plugs to take the control panel somewhere more comfortable than the car. The toothed wheel (behind the panel)can be separated from the rotary dial (at the front of the panel)by inserting a thin flat blade behind it an levering back the four retainers on the boss that goes through the panel. Lots of bad language is inevitably involved. Once the wheel is free it can be correctly repositioned and the dial pushed in again from the front.

 

I put it all back in, including the replacement unbroken centre console, which has been lurking around the study to Mrs. B's continual and verbal displeasure,and have left the jammed diverter disconnected for the time being, until I can work myself up to a full dashboard and heater removal. Nice pristine dashboard, a few rattles sorted out, but now the fan only works on setting 4 !!! The electrical connector is fully in, I just despair. Any ideas?? Could the thermal fuse in the blower have given up coincidentally?? The Wiki warns of not putting the rotary dials in the wrong way around, but I don't understand it quite........

 

Anyway I treated myself to an afternoon diversion at a VSCC meeting at Silverstone where I met a very nice fellow Corradiste (M13 S**). And saw a black Corrado (D5 or D15 *** ) on A5 near Milton Keynes.

 

Rambling, but you get the gist.

RB

[fla 9]

8 years old, not bad!

I'm looking to renew the foam on the diverter flaps - is it possible to get access to them without removing the dash and blower setup?  Ideally i was looking to remove just the centre console.  I believe someone did this not so long ago - if there are any pics available that would be great too.  Nice little project over the holidays

 

thanks

Hasan

[oneohtwo 8]

It is, I've done myself. Was a fair while ago though, but I don't recall it being a major hassle. I don't remember much specific though unfortunately. I think once the under dash trim and centre console is all out it's fairly straightforward. I think the screws through the bulkhead were the most difficult.

[g0ldf1ng3r 15]

13 hours ago, fla said:

8 years old, not bad!

I'm looking to renew the foam on the diverter flaps - is it possible to get access to them without removing the dash and blower setup?  Ideally i was looking to remove just the centre console.  I believe someone did this not so long ago - if there are any pics available that would be great too.  Nice little project over the holidays

 

thanks

Hasan

having done the diverter flap job twice & had the dash out 3 times it is so much easier when you have full access

you could try just removing the centre section but from memory i cant recall how much access this would give

i can email you my dash out guide which has pics so maybe you could see if what you want to do would be possible

worst case it really isnt a difficult job to get the dash out, just need to be organised & label everything

[fla 9]

7 hours ago, g0ldf1ng3r said:

having done the diverter flap job twice & had the dash out 3 times it is so much easier when you have full access

you could try just removing the centre section but from memory i cant recall how much access this would give

i can email you my dash out guide which has pics so maybe you could see if what you want to do would be possible

worst case it really isnt a difficult job to get the dash out, just need to be organised & label everything

thanks, yes that would be great.  As i dont have any covered area i think i'll need to wait until summer then if its a dash out job.

20 hours ago, oneohtwo said:

It is, I've done myself. Was a fair while ago though, but I don't recall it being a major hassle. I don't remember much specific though unfortunately. I think once the under dash trim and centre console is all out it's fairly straightforward. I think the screws through the bulkhead were the most difficult.

Do you remember if you took everything out? Based upon Goldfinger above, its probably better to do it that way and i may as well do the heater matrix then too as a preventative measure. I had the centre and underdash  trims off last summer for derattling, i should have looked at it then!

 

At the moment, my dash vents blow warm air when the diverter is set to the screen, so presumably this is to do with the foam on the flaps?  Watched a really good video from Humblemechanic where he replaced the felt and really cleaned up the airbox - but this was with the airbox removed.  I suppose thats one way to do it too, but it would be good if i had a spare airbox to revamp and get ready and then just swop it in.  I say 'just', corrado jobs are never that easy.. Funnily enough i've got a climatronic box in the garage that i've meant to graft into my aircon, but who knows when that will happen and i dont think the diavia modified airboxes are too common

[fendervg 32]

The heater box will need to come out in order for you to take it apart to access the flaps properly - so it makes sense to replace the matrix and the control cables at the same time if you can.

[oneohtwo 8]

I may have misunderstood, but yes as per fendervg you need to get the heater box out. I took it out without removing the whole dash. Think I gave myself a bit of time and did it over a weekend, but it's not a massively time consuming job. 

Be careful what glue you use to stick the felt on though. I used a fairly normal household glue (gorilla glue I think, just the general purpose stuff) but it smelt quite bad for a while when I had the blower on. Still smells a bit odd if I have the flaps open to the heater, not sure if that is the glue or not these days, as it's been a good 10 years or so since I did it. 

Also be careful to ensure the felt doesn't obstruct the hinges. I cut mine a bit too large so when turned to fully cold the knob doesn't quite "click" into place at the end of the turn.

[g0ldf1ng3r 15]

22 hours ago, fla said:

thanks, yes that would be great.  As i dont have any covered area i think i'll need to wait until summer then if its a dash out job.

Do you remember if you took everything out? Based upon Goldfinger above, its probably better to do it that way and i may as well do the heater matrix then too as a preventative measure. I had the centre and underdash  trims off last summer for derattling, i should have looked at it then!

 

At the moment, my dash vents blow warm air when the diverter is set to the screen, so presumably this is to do with the foam on the flaps?  Watched a really good video from Humblemechanic where he replaced the felt and really cleaned up the airbox - but this was with the airbox removed.  I suppose thats one way to do it too, but it would be good if i had a spare airbox to revamp and get ready and then just swop it in.  I say 'just', corrado jobs are never that easy.. Funnily enough i've got a climatronic box in the garage that i've meant to graft into my aircon, but who knows when that will happen and i dont think the diavia modified airboxes are too common

send me your email & i will send you a copy Hasan

i was able to reline the felt with the airbox in place once all the dash was out.  access was pretty decent & i wasnt  brave enough to disconnect the bowden cables etc

i used sticky back felt which a forum member here sent me, i think it was purchased from a hobby shop

it is possible to do it all on a driveway etc but you would need somewhere to put the larger parts indoors - if taking your time id guess at about 3 hours to take it out & then similar to put back in

i sticky labelled all cables etc & then had loads of envelopes for the rest of the stuff & labelled everything

[oneohtwo 8]

On 12/19/2022 at 6:54 PM, fla said:

thanks, yes that would be great.  As i dont have any covered area i think i'll need to wait until summer then if its a dash out job.

Do you remember if you took everything out? Based upon Goldfinger above, its probably better to do it that way and i may as well do the heater matrix then too as a preventative measure. I had the centre and underdash  trims off last summer for derattling, i should have looked at it then!

 

I typed a reply to this, but apparently it didn't submit!  Anyway, I think I slightly misunderstood, as per fendervg, you do need to get the heater box out. I got mine out without taking the dash out, just the centre console and under dash trims. I don't recall it being too much of an issue after that. Think the bolts through the bulkhead were the hardest part.

I used felt from a hobby shop, and if you can get sticky backed then that's probably better. If not chose your glue carefully. I used a household general purpose glu (gorilla glue from memory) but it smelled quite bad for a long time after. Still smells a bit odd on heater setting, but don't know if that's the glue or something else. Also take care that the felt doesn't foul the hinges. I made a piece slightly too big so it slightly obstructs the hinge, and I can't "click" the temperature dial at the end of turning it all the way to cold.

[fendervg 32]

Sticky backed felt from an arts/hobby supply shop was what I used as well, some others have used adhesive foil tape - but you need it to be slightly porous. It really does need to come out for you to take it apart though - buy you can leave the cables attached as you remove it and take the control dials and the heater box out as a unit, if you are worried about the cables. It will make it easier to see how it works and goes back together.

[Crasher 3]

I have used the thin 1/8” (3mm) Dynaliner from Dynamat which self adhesive but also the VAG foam used for door inner shower curtains but I would have to look the number up at work.

Found it, 3A0 867 201 H £21.24 plus some aerosol web spray

Edited January 2, 2023 by Crasher

[dragon green 5]

This is a NOS heater box I’ve had in my loft for many years, I tried to take pics to show the foam, and two doors have foam stops !
I have dynaliner here, and it is very much the same as OE,
I’ve bought a new matrix,and will be putting it all in very shortly.
I’ve done the matrix before, (dash out twice) but this time I’m going to try leaving the dash in, I’ll let you know how I get on

[fendervg 32]

Interesting - I've never seen the foam stops on any I've taken out, Corrado or Mk2/Mk3 over the years, must be at least hald a dozen, so I guess it must be one of the first things to degrade and fall off - it would stop that banging sound when the flap is open/closed fully. Something to remember when doing the next one

[fla 9]

i've managed to get the centre diverter housing out now, but how do you split the two halves?  I cant seem to work out how those clips have clipped in - probably very straightforward but i cant quite see it...

 

thanks

Hasan

[easypops 8]

The clips are pictured here mate, sort of sprung offset U shapes. The only danger is breaking the plastic part they grip around. As far as I remember I came in from the side with a small flat head screwdriver 👍

Edited May 17, 2023 by easypops

[fla 9]

Thanks for that. The ones I'm struggling with are the plastic triangular ones - just afraid I'll break them. I'll rake a proper pic and post up, but this is the box for ref

[easypops 8]

3 hours ago, fla said:

Thanks for that. The ones I'm struggling with are the plastic triangular ones - just afraid I'll break them. I'll rake a proper pic and post up, but this is the box for ref

I can’t quite remember plastic triangle ones but when I looked back it’s been a good few years since I did that task 

[fla 9]

On 5/17/2023 at 6:06 PM, easypops said:

I can’t quite remember plastic triangle ones but when I looked back it’s been a good few years since I did that task 

Its these ones. Tried squeezing with pipe grips, gentle twisting with a screwdriver and also trying to open the slot into which they've been pushed through, but no luck at all. I'm afraid they'll snap off then I'll be really snookered

[fla 9]

I've had some unsuccessful goes at these three

[daves16v 1]

I'll be attempting exactly this at the weekend, will let you know how it goes.