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Keyo

Word of warning on Aftermarket alloy Radiators

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2 minutes ago, Keyo said:

If you look at NO 9 the one with B as last digit there is no evidence of an O ring for a VAG one. 

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/corrado/cor/1995-76/9/959-238000/#9

True, but I think it better if one is fitted or something in the thread otherwise your relying on the brass to aluminium insert thread to seal it, hopefully forever. 

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1 minute ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

True, but I think it better if one is fitted or something in the thread otherwise your relying on the brass to aluminium insert thread to seal it, hopefully forever. 

If it leaks I will get some sealant string but VW must of tested it from factory otherwise they would of supplied a washer - the issues might arrive from housing it in an aftermarket rad. 

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There was never a seal or o-ring on mine, and none of the ones I bought had one. I can't see it doing any harm though.

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I thought it strange that mine didnt have one. To be on the safe side I added some pfte tape and have never had a leak

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18 minutes ago, ger040 said:

 

i bought it

Looks the same as mine-  you got that for half price you lucky bugger. 🙄

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3 hours ago, Keyo said:

Looks the same as mine-  you got that for half price you lucky bugger. 🙄

The seller is in the motor trade and had it for his own car that he had and its german !!

Not very often you get anything corrado related for decent money these days!!

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3 hours ago, Cressa said:

Glad it went to a forum member 👍

thanks starting to collect parts for a future project

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First drive in the VR today with the new Dasis radiator fitted- please note my old rad was missing the plastic airducts but sourced some used ones to fit on the new rad. 

Temp today 5 degrees  - car ran top at 82 degrees - got home to inspect radiator and no leaks what so ever- car is running cooler . 

Verdict so far excellent. 

 

Edited by Keyo

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1 hour ago, Keyo said:

First drive in the VR today with the new Dasis radiator fitted- please note my old rad was missing the plastic airducts but sourced some used ones to fit on the new rad. 

Temp today 5 degrees  - car ran top at 82 degrees - got home to inspect radiator and no leaks what so ever- car is running cooler . 

Verdict so far excellent. 

 

What was your oil temp?

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I think despite it being awfully made and leaking, I doubt you'll see a great deal of difference in temps. As above, oil temp is what you need to monitor really. The thermostat opens at 87 degrees so water temps shouldn't really rise above that unless there are genuine problems or it's really hot weather.

You don't really want a standard motor running much lower either - even though some fit lower temp stats - as the oil won't be in the optimum performance range and the map will be compensating to those temps so over fuelling.

Edited by seanl82

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Where are you measuring coolant temperatures to 1 degree accuracy? Only way to do that is to read off the ECU - even the MFA oil temps tend to jump up in leaps of 2 or 4 degrees at a time. 90-100 is decent coolant temp, remember that coolant will boil at a lot higher than pure water.

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FYI at 5 degrees outside Temp under normal driving, not track/spirited yours would seem normal water temp wise you shouldn’t hear the fans kick in. 
just wondered what the oil temp was 

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I was only looking at the water temperature on the cluster and concentrating on that to make sure the cooling system was staying with in tolerance levels - more over checking there were no leaks and working as it should. The car has had all new genuine coolant senders and fan switch - also a new water pump + thermostat + engine rebuild not sure that would make difference = car was running cooler then I remember ever has done then before - I will study oil temperature next time. I left the car run on the drive when I got home to check the fans came on which they did. I think putting on the factory radiator trims on helped as I believe it ducts the air into the radiator. You can still buy one trim new but it aint cheap - the other side is obsolete. 

So yes Sean my fans did not kick in today whilst driving. 

Edited by Keyo

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The coolant gauge in the cluster can't really be considered accurate at all - the tech is too old, as are the gauges themselves - the only real way to tell is to plug in VCDS and compare the reading there with the gauge - the ECU takes its signal from the blue temp sender in the thermostat housing. I think the dash gauge should be read as cold=>warm=>worried=oh sh*t!

Newer cars are designed so that the temp needle will sit centered on 90 no matter what when warm, unless something is seriously wrong with the cooling system - I think this is done so as not to alarm drivers if the needle fluctuates too much.  My other car does not even have a temp gauge any more, just a warming up light, and then a warning lamp for over heating.

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My gauge cluster in new tbf. Got a new circuit board last year from classics. . 

Edited by Keyo

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26 minutes ago, fendervg said:

The coolant gauge in the cluster can't really be considered accurate at all - the tech is too old, as are the gauges themselves - the only real way to tell is to plug in VCDS and compare the reading there with the gauge - the ECU takes its signal from the blue temp sender in the thermostat housing. I think the dash gauge should be read as cold=>warm=>worried=oh sh*t!

Newer cars are designed so that the temp needle will sit centered on 90 no matter what when warm, unless something is seriously wrong with the cooling system - I think this is done so as not to alarm drivers if the needle fluctuates too much.  My other car does not even have a temp gauge any more, just a warming up light, and then a warning lamp for over heating.

I had a conversation with someone in design at LR who confirmed what you say above re manufacturers fixing temps at 90 degrees until the point of boiling over. I’ve witnessed this in one of my own cars that went fro 90 - 130 instantly as it puked pink coolant all over a traffic jammed multi storey car park one summer. I’m not sure how relevant this is to Corrados but mk4s definitely have this strategy From the factory.

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Seems daft by the manufacturers- a gauge should be a gauge and what it reads should be gospel. What about the VDO gauges I might get a coolant temperature for my Votex instead of oil temp which I have om the MFA anyway,  The corrado has a sensor just for the binnacle I believe from memory so might be accurate to a certain degree duh duh bad joke sorry. 

Edited by Keyo

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