FrankyEight 10 Posted March 2, 2022 Hi guys Any help much appreciated. I'm still having trouble getting my 2.0 16v to start. My local garage is out of ideas and so am I it seems... fuel pump is working and the metering unit is receiving fuel, but that's as far as it gets. I initially replaced the fuel pump (new from VW Heritage) and metering unit (eBay, advertised as in working condition) when I thought that these may have been the culprit, to no avail. My garage has mentioned the possibility of an issue with either the immobilisor or ECU. I also had a chat with a local auto electrician who said that, because the fuel pump is running and that the car DOES start when sprayed with Easy Starter, the immobilisor is probably fine but did cite the ECU as a potential problem. I know that the ECUs sit below the windscreen and are vulnerable to the elements, corrosion etc so my next port of call is to pick one up from eBay, swap it out and hope for the best. Only negative there is that the mechanic working on my car DOESN'T think it's the ECU and think's it's more likely a mechanical issue, and that maybe the eBay metering unit I sent him was possibly ALSO faulty. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted March 2, 2022 A replacement ECU will also necessitate coding out the immobiliser as well, unless you get the ring and keys with it..... Sorry I can't help with you problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jenkiam 0 Posted March 2, 2022 2 hours ago, FrankyEight said: Hi guys Any help much appreciated. I'm still having trouble getting my 2.0 16v to start. My local garage is out of ideas and so am I it seems... fuel pump is working and the metering unit is receiving fuel, but that's as far as it gets. I initially replaced the fuel pump (new from VW Heritage) and metering unit (eBay, advertised as in working condition) when I thought that these may have been the culprit, to no avail. My garage has mentioned the possibility of an issue with either the immobilisor or ECU. I also had a chat with a local auto electrician who said that, because the fuel pump is running and that the car DOES start when sprayed with Easy Starter, the immobilisor is probably fine but did cite the ECU as a potential problem. I know that the ECUs sit below the windscreen and are vulnerable to the elements, corrosion etc so my next port of call is to pick one up from eBay, swap it out and hope for the best. Only negative there is that the mechanic working on my car DOESN'T think it's the ECU and think's it's more likely a mechanical issue, and that maybe the eBay metering unit I sent him was possibly ALSO faulty. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH I had a similar issue when my VR6 wouldnt start - it would attempt to fire but not fully 'catch'. Both the AA man & me thought it was fuel pump but my mechanic tracked it down to an immobiliser issue in the ECU.. So, we removed it from the car & sent it off to be fixed/re-coded by an auto electrician in Bristol & the car now starts & runs well. Get the ECU properly looked at would be my suggestion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted March 3, 2022 Thanks guys. If the problem was indeed the ECU, is there a way of disabling the immobilisor/bypassing it somehow temporarily (or permanently even if that means removing it altogether at a later date) for the sole purpose of replacing the ECU so as to get the car running? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crasher 3 Posted March 9, 2022 Fit the earlier non immo ECU, yours should be 8A0 907 404 L, the earlier version was 8A0 907 404 CC, there is one on eBay for £35. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cressa 44 Posted March 9, 2022 2 hours ago, Crasher said: Fit the earlier non immo ECU, yours should be 8A0 907 404 L, the earlier version was 8A0 907 404 CC, there is one on eBay for £35. Yes , Crasher the legend on the forum and helping us out.✔ Result. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted March 23, 2022 Thanks for the responses — managed to get a replacement ECU but no luck once changed — for whatever reason fuel is not getting from the metering heads to the injectors. The only thing I and the garage can think of is to find another metering head unit online and replace it for a second time (the assumption being that the 'working' replacement was not in working order). Otherwise, I'm stumped... Loosing patience... Is anyone interested in buying it?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted March 23, 2022 Do rpms show on the tachometer on the dash when cranking? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted March 23, 2022 9 minutes ago, Dox said: Do rpms show on the tachometer on the dash when cranking? Thanks for the reply — the car won't crank at all unless easy starter or fuel is fed in to the engine, at which point I do believe rpms show on the tacho when cranking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted March 23, 2022 Cranking is when the starter turns the engine start or non start the engine turns? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted March 23, 2022 Thanks — Nothing happens at all when turning the key, it doesn't crank, the engine doesn't turn. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted March 23, 2022 Turn the key and video the instuments, post here. Video the engine also Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted March 24, 2022 Sadly can't get to the car for a while as it's in the garage, but can describe it — key in the ignition and turn the car on as usual, light in the dash appear, mileage etc all as normal — further turn the key to start the car and... nothing! No cranking, no noise, no change of dash lights etc, just nothing. Remove throttle body, spray easy start in and turn the key? Car immediately cranks and starts as normal!... I'm stumped... I spoke to an auto electrician about whether it was an immobilisor issue (Clifford) — he said he didn't think so because fuel pump is working fine and so is the ignition switch when using easy start. Before this issue happened, I do recall having trouble once trying to get in to the car with the fob, it not unlocking or responding to me trying to unlock it for a couple of attempts and then it would be fine. Also, I'd hear the odd clicking from what sounded like the sunroof unit when driving the first 5 minutes or so, like a relay sound, on and off. I'm not sure if rain water could be an issue as I've had that problem of it coming through the passenger side windscreen and sitting in rear foot well on that side. Also, in the couple of days before the car stopped starting completely, I remember it doing the same thing intermitently; I'd drive the car to the shop, jump back in the car to leave and turn the key, and nothing! Turn the key again and it would crank and start as normal. It may have done this 2 or 3 times the week prior to it dying completely. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted March 24, 2022 Spraying easy start into the throttle body should/will have no effect on whether or not it cranks on demand with the key, it must be coincidence. I would check change the starter key switch on the bottom of the barreland maybe the barrel as sometimes they wear due to big bunches of keys hanging off the car key. If still nothing check the wiring and ground to the starter motor and starter motor itself Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted March 24, 2022 You also have to understand the terminology difference between cranking, trying to fire up and running Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted March 28, 2022 Once again, thanks for all your comments. Is it possible that a bad relay could be causing my problems? Does anyone have a diagram for the 9A fuse/relay laout and know whether any of the relays could be responsible, if bad? Thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted April 6, 2022 Based on the clicking noise, perhaps your starter solenoid is stuck. Try tapping it with a piece of wood - might free it up to start the car. Also check the wiring to the starter and solenoid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FrankyEight 10 Posted April 22, 2022 Hello all, to bring this post to a conclusion, I'm glad to say that the car is now fixed, awake from its coma! I managed to source a second replacement metering head (courtesy of Lithuania) and this (unlike the first replacement I sourced...), has woken the car from its slumber, Corrado lives on! Thanks for your comments and advice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites