MikeVR6

Unfortunately not. That's why I suggested ripping the whole darn lot out. Believe it or not, the quality of VW Specialists here in Germany leaves a lot be be desired. Think I may have to bring the car back to the UK and have a real specialist look at it.

Hi Timbo yeah I read that thread. When I first purchased VAG-COM I had to fiddle with the COM port latency settings to get the ABS unit to connect. Back then the ABS was fine. Now, it won't even connect with the "real" diagnostic computer in the Bosch dealers. Looks like I may have a ribbon cable problem too. Nightmare! Anyone else have a suggestion?

Very useful. Thanks! :salute:

If the part numbers match then you can do it. Should be something like 1H0 907 379 with a C/D/E/F at the end depending on the year of the car. You'll get an ECU on E-Bay cheap.

The ABS light on my VR keeps coming on indicating a fault somewhere. I used VAG-COM to try and read any faults. But it won't let me interogate the ABS ECU. It gives an error message basically saying the ECU isn't there! I can read the car's other modules (Engine ECU, Immobiliser) though. I took it to a local BOSCH service center and their computer produced the same result. I also got them to check the ABS relays behind the dash and they are ok apparently. I bought a 2nd hand ABS ECU from E-Bay and tried that. Same result. So, I'm a bit perplexed. The light comes on when I switch on the ignition. Then goes off after running it's startup check, the pedal does not "kick" though as I led to believe it should. Then normally the light comes on again after I start moving. Sometimes it doesn't come back on and this is when things get dangerous as it kicks in randomly when I brake, the pedal judders and the pump makes strange noises. Tempted to rip the whole damn thing out. But I am by no means a mechanic so I'd have to pay someone to do this. Really need to get this fixed as the car is due MOT soon and this will certainly result in a FAIL. :(

I had a poke around there on Sunday night. The relays behind the glovebox aren't clicking when the ignition is switched on. From a cursory inspection, the ECU doesn't show any obvious signs of corrosion. How does one remove said ECU? There's a lot of bolts and things going on in there! I have a spare one at home in Belfast. But of course I'm in Germany, so it'll be cheaper to buy one on Ebay.de than get mine posted over. Let me know how to get the bugger out and I'll have a look tonight.

What was the cause of the problem in the end? I have a similar fault that's just appeared on my VR. On mine the ABS light is staying on. In VAG-COM I can't connect to the ABS ECU to read the faults. I think it's not getting power, so possibly the relays.

Looking Good! 8) 8) Like the euro-style fog lights and the German plates. I have a set of pressed German plates in the garage. Haven't been brave enough to fit them yet. Have you had any bother with the cops?

Tedman cheers for buying the gauges. No messing about. Paid immediately by Paypal and pm'd me when they arrived. :clap:

Smashing! That's exactly what I was looking for. I wired up the connector from a Mk3 Golf sunroof, so my gauges use a proper VW multiplug. But I couldn't remember what the wiring sequence was. I bought a nice OEM looking gearknob ages ago and want to wire up the illumination on it using the dimmed input to the gauges.

Apologies to The Mods. Just "Gauging" interest ;)

Hi Guys, Looking for the wiring diagram for the later style VDO Centre Console Gauges? I just did a quick search and can't find the diagram on here. Maybe it was on the Wiki? Does anyone have it saved somewhere? Mod edit: classifieds if you have stuff to sell ;) ... VR6

Bought a new battery this morning. Starts on the button and seems to be running smoother too. €120 for a feckin Bosch Silver S4. And I thought Britain was a ripoff! Cheers! :clap:

Thanks for the info Zak. Checked the Voltage Gauge readings properly this morning. Battery had been on-charge all night in the garage. On initial turn of the key, 11.5 - 12 volts. (not exact as the VW gauge is analogue) Car failed to start, same as before.... Jumped it using my starter pack, started on first turn of the key. On the way to work it was reading a smidgen under 14 volts all the way. Difficult to see under the bonnet when I get home at night. But I will have a look at the battery and starter contacts at the weekend.

What are the symptoms of a dodgy regulator? I fitted a Bosch 120Amp alternator and Bosch Silver battery around 8,000 miles ago. (battery has just run out of warranty) :bad-words: For the last few days the car won't start in the cold mornings, just clicks like mad when I turn the key. But starts and runs fine off a jump-start. Volt meter in the center console reads about 11 Volts when the engine isn't running and 14.5 Volts when running with lights, seats, blower etc turned off. Was going to buy a new battery tomorrow but will await your opinions.

Expensive yes, rules of supply and demand I guess. That's why I tend to buy my cars from Mainland UK. But I will contact the guy and see if he is open to offers. Buyer's market at the moment ;) My main concern was the engine. Thanks for the advice! 8)

Yes car will be registered in the UK. The same tax bands etc apply to N.Ireland registered vehicles. Although we have a separate licensing authority. The DVLNI instead of the DVLA. We have to obtain a Certificate of Export for cars purchased in England/Scotland/Wales. Further complicated by the fact that I live in Belgium, but because of my employer I do not have to go through the nightmare of registering my car there.

Had a wee look on Autotrader. Similar spec with a lot less mileage... http://tinyurl.com/a285bk But the car in question is only a short drive up the road from my folks in N.Ireland and I'm popping over next weekend. A car in Mainland UK is gonna have the added cost of flights, ferries etc Say £500. So I shouldn't worry too much about the engine then? At 118k and with good history a 20VT shouldn't need any major work? Just want something with Aircon for the summer as the Rado is like a greenhouse.

Spotted a nice looking 2001 Golf GTI Turbo for sale not far from home. Nice spec, Metallic Black, Xenons, heated leather recaros, climate, factory upgraded audio, sunroof. Exterior looks good. Owner has said this about the engine... Is this high mileage for a 20VT engine? Car is for sale at top money IMO £3995 ono and would be a stretch but it is practically on my doorstep. Worth a punt or forget it??

Agree 100% with the previous comments. Prevention is the best cure and quality parts rather than false economy. When viewing any car, I take my mechanically minded mate with me. And first stop after purchase is his garage for a good thorough going over. My current VR cost 4.5k nearly 5 years ago. Spent around £800 getting little bits sorted there and then. Including new shocks all round. Since then, beyond day to day costs and "mods", I've spent £600 a year on servicing. Only major thing that went wrong was the alternator died 2 years ago. IIRC that was £200 fitted by my mate. £600 a year wouldn't pay for a dealership to do much on a newer car or cover the depreciation. Still thinking long and hard about buying a new Rocco though.

Good job on the Speedlines. 8) But I preferred the other wheels. What were they?

Yup, seen it countless times. But it still puts a smile on my face. :D :D :D "The only 90's coupe to be seen in." :cheers:

Coincidentally, on Wrecks to Riches on one of the Sky channels the other night. There was a professional car restorer demonstrating the peanut butter technique. The natural oils in the product restore the sheen to the plastic. Rub it in well. Leave for 20 minutes, then buff it off. Smooth type of course.

Gotta agree on the peanut butter. Works a treat and you can eat what's left over. Try that with Autoglym or Back to Black! :)

Quite a handy thing to have if you drive around with a lot of weight in the back. Corpses and such like