MikeVR6

Is Greg's work good also? I could do with a few bits here and there bodywork wise.

My Corrado Storm is going into Stealth Racing next week. I'd like to get the screen replaced whilst it's there. Can anyone recommend a good fitter in the area. I know these screens are a pain. I had one replaced on my last VR and the poor guy from Autoglass spent an entire day on it. Loads of rust had to be ground back and treated at the top of the screen.

I think there is a wee bit of green in there. It's not completely clear. I'm going to meet with a company and discuss. I don't want anything chav as it will completely ruin the look of the car. I'm really trying to capture the style of more modern Veedubs with their factory tint.

Just to resurrect this post. I would like to put a light tint on all the glass. But I want to be very careful because I really don't want it to be Chav at all. My Mk4 Golf TDI had factory glass and it had a lovely look to it. I'd like the same on the Corrado. Not just for looks mind. It's also to try and reduce some of the Greenhouse effect I get in the Summer. The interior of my car today was HOT after only sitting in the sun for 5 minutes. Here's what the law says. Copied from Redwood Tinting in Bristol's website.... So it says "most modern cars have a VLT of 80% to 70%."Do you think the Corrado falls in this bracket? I mean the windows are pretty much completely transparent IMO. Opinions and photos would also be great. I was thinking of just a 50% or 35% tint on all windows bar the windscreen.

Exactly. But to be honest I'm quite happy with 288's and grooved disks. Even with 285bhp under the bonnet, she stops fine.

288's just about fit in the end.

Best I know is what Kev suggested earlier. Disconnect the MAF and take it for a cold to hot run. See how it performs then. These things are tricky to track down. I think the ISV comes into play if the car is cold on startup - running "cold map". Kev? Always check all the pipe work on the air intake to throttle side and the exhaust gas and tank breather. Little splits can appear, particularly near the hose clips, as the rubber ages. This was the source of my issues in the end. But I overlooked these and ended up spending £££ on MAFs and ISVs needlessly. €40 hose fixed it in the end! But at least I have some spares now. ;)

No probs. I think on Charged cars they're more prone to go. Never had to replace one in 60k miles of driving my previous VR.

Happy to post you one of my spare MAFs (sensor only mind). See if it works for you. I wouldn't do this for everyone but we've met and we're Forum Oldtimers :) Best thing to do is get another VR6 owner to call round and do a quick swap to prove the fault. Have you had the car on VAGCOM? The sensor takes literally 2 minutes to remove. If you have the right Torx screwdriver bit.

The early one is! With exchange it's over £300 from ECP. Both come with the complete plastic tube. I wish they'd just sell the sensor on its own!

I had this a few weeks ago when I had my running issues. Replaced MAF twice and ISV twice. Turned out to be a friggin tiny hairline split in the fuel tank breather hose, which only opened up randomly. At the time Vince gave me these MAF part no's from Eurocarparts. Late "film" type 434440230 - £84 plus exchange deposit Early "wire" type 434440480 - £215 plus exchange These are for a 1998 2.8 Golf. Enter Reg "R109EHP" and search for MAF. You don't need to change the housing. Just use torx to remove the sensor from the new and swap with the old. ISV I got brand new for £30 from e-Bay. Search for Bosch Part No. 0280140559 - Manufacturer "LOEWE" (we should sticky this info) The hose I needed is obsolete from VW but available from Classic Parts here in Germany for...... €95 !! Ordered a Ford Galaxy one instead. **** Not exactly the same and wouldn't suit someone using a normal VR. The original had a t-piece and tube masked off by Stealth during my Supercharger install. The Ford one is just a straight pipe. But at €40 was less than half the price and perfect for me.*** I won't post that part no. here as it is not useful to NA running VRs. Part #2 on this diagram. http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24538&s_id_model=98

Hadn't really looked at those. Good idea...

Leaning towards the Audi now after doing some more research. It has only slightly higher than average mileage at 93k and is (probably) the more reliable, given age and mileage.

Audi is also better in the snow. Especially with Winter Tyres, which are mandatory here in Germany. I'm buying RHD by the way. Hence I can't get a car locally. Gotta do as much of the inspection process remotely as possible.

You're right. It's likely out of warranty after 100k miles. Or maybe less. I'll look into that. It was my own assumption. My problem is my love for gadgets and the Superb is full of them. It makes the Audi look like a poverty spec motor. And I could get my full Geek on, adjusting things with VCDS until the wee small hours every weekend. However, I believe the Audi is the more fun car and (probably) more robust. Every engine has its issues but the 2.0 Tsi seems pretty solid. I haven't driven the Audi yet. I have driven a Superb and it was smooth and sedate. A big comfy cruiser. But I have the Supercharged mental Corrado for FUN driving. We have only one Toddler but this car will need to see us through the next addition to the family. Whenever he/she comes. And one kid already generates a lot of luggage! I've looked at A6's and they're also a possibility. Still big money for a 2006 with Nav and Leather though. And E60 Bimmers are mental prices. I don't like the dash layout either. I need an E61 "Touring" anyway and it would need to be the Facelifted post-2007 model. (I've spent a lot of time on research) ;) The 5k miles we do in the Family motor are all over 30 mile trips. Normally longer. I learnt my lesson about modern diesels and town driving with a Mk5 tdi. Disaster! My heart says Skoda. But my Head says Audi. I won't get the chance to drive the Audi but it's not far from my Mechanic mate. He'll go see it tomorrow. I have driven a similar Superb and it was very nice. But not something to throw into the twisties. Much too long! Then there's price. £6k is ok. £8k is a stretch at the moment and really the most I could afford.

I'm in a bit of a conundrum. Looking for a new family wagon. I've spent the last 10 days almost solid looking at cars online and calling Dealers. (I need to buy from far away in Germany) I've come down to two candidates. 2006 Audi A4 Quattro S-Line Avant (Estate). 2.0Tsi Special Edition (220bhp Petrol) Red 93k Miles Long MOT - No TAX Manual Full Audi Dealer History Full Leather Bluetooth, Cruise Control, Multifunction Steering Wheel, Tints, Dual Climate, Parking Sensors. Only really missing Sat Nav £6,000 2011 Skoda Superb 170BHP TD CR "Elegance" Estate, Diesel Sumatra (Literally a Nutella colour, I know some hate it!) :) 138k Miles 1 owner (Lex Leasing) from new and FULL Skoda History. Last service 2k miles ago included CamBelt. All printouts from Skoda Long MOT - No Tax Manual 6 Speed Full Leather Fully Loaded. In addition to the Audi spec it has Auto Lights/Wipers, Puddle Lights, HID Headlights, Sat Nav.... etc etc etc £8,000 I'm really leaning towards the Superb as it is much bigger, newer, the interior and exterior are mint (so are the Audi's). However, it is extremely high mileage for the year. I would want to remove the DPF, do an EGR delete and Economy remap immediately (I had big DPF issues with my last family car, hateful things!) Now I don't do a lot of miles. I drive the Corrado most days and the Family car is really only used for shopping and family outings more than 30 mins drive away (We all love the Corrado). And I would keep the Skoda a long time. Long enough that the Age/Mileage would eventually equalize. Fuel economy is not a massive issue due to the miles we cover between the 2 cars. 5k per year per car. But my good friend. Who is a VW Specialist Mechanic. Is pushing me towards the Audi. Lower miles, Petrol (less complicated), it's am AUDI!! I like the Skoda a lot and it certainly has plenty of room, much more than the Audi. it's newer, still has a few months Skoda warranty left and is still the current model. What experience do you guys have of these 2 cars? I've heard the 2.0 TSi is pretty bulletproof. But the 170 TDi has issues with injectors, oil pumps and engine blocks cracking. The real risk here is the outlay if anything is to go wrong with the car. I can't buy an extended warranty for either due to age on one and mileage on the other. Plus those warranties are a con normally IMO. Driving enjoyment is a consideration. But I think outright motorway cruising is much more important. We do quite a few 5-8 hours drives around Europe throughout the year. Diesel is 20% cheaper than Petrol here in Germany too! Any advice, anecdotes or witty remarks appreciated ;)

I have a small collection of MAF sensors. Hot Film later type as opposed to Hot Wire type on the earlier VRs. I'm happy to post you one to try. Sort me out later. ;)

Excellent save! The VR6 pump should be 4 bar. The 16v pumps are lower pressure. But do change the relay and check the wiring first. Always do the simplest stuff. Especially when a new genuine fuel pump is £££. Health to drive ;)

At the weekend I replaced the ISV with a "Lowe" model from eBay €36 as opposed to €200 for a VW one. Bosch part no. 0280140559 Started the car up. No improvement. But when I gave it some gas I could hear a hissing noise. Turns out a small hairline split had appeared on one of the hoses leading to the charcoal filter I think. Part No. 021133518H. I taped up the hose and hey presto. Back to normal. Of course a new one is nearly €100 from VW. They are now obsolete. Same part from a Ford Galaxy is just under €40 delivered. Part No. 1006442 So after 2 ISVs, 3 MAFs and a lot of head scratching the car is running fine again. Keep an eye on those hoses!

Second dibs on the All Red inner/outer lights if Sankysvr6 doesn't want them.

Not at all.

Hi Steve, Mine arrived the other day. The car is away at the minute. I'll post up a pic when they're fitted. Thanks a lot.

Are Black Diamond discs and any good. Which configuration is best for Fast Road use? - Cross Drilled - 6 Groove - 12 Groove - Combi (12 Groove & Cross Drilled) Any recommendations on Pads to go with? EBC Greenstuff? Pagid Fast Road?

Take a look at this.... http://www.coordsport.com/attachments/WavetracPriceList_EUR2013.pdf £702 including VAT for the Diff. No info there about the fitting kit. Drop them a line, they have a UK e-mail address.

I'd be interested. If the price is right :)