MikeVR6

Have a read of this thread http://www.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=56506 Sounds similar. Defo start with a fluid change if you aren't sure when it was last done.

Can't remember the exact fault codes from mine. Just it was 3 corners of the car. Must have been intermittent or out of range faults.

Yup. VCDS Scan will tell you which sensor is kaput. Does a bad sensor keep the light on permanently? When I scanned mine 2 weeks ago there were 3 sensor errors, I cleared them and they haven't come back. ABS light was behaving as normal.

In VCDS the Lambda is giving readings. They're just outside its normal +-2% range. So I think the problem lies elsewhere. It's with the mechanic now. I gave him my original ISV which I've now cleaned thoroughly, asked him to check fuel pressure and look for vacuum leaks. Failing that he'll need to start delving deeper. Checking spark plugs for fouling, HT leads (new Dubsport ones fitted in October), coilpack etc...

I see R32/Audi TT bushes are recommended. Powerflex going on eBay.

You might be lucky and get a second hand one. I sold a set on here a few years back. That was part of the last batch from VW. It is possible to get parts re-run if there is enough demand. Maybe contact these guys directly.. http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_act_vwclassicparts.home.htm

Arz-tuning.de used to have them. But I just looked and no longer listed. Obsolete from VW in RHD fitment. Rare as rocking horse poo. Maybe VW classic parts could get a fresh production run? But they wouldn't be cheap. Should have been standard equipment IMO!

Fitted a brand new Bosch MAF sensor today. Had some fun getting it out of the housing it came with (from a Golf). Security Torx not the same as the T20's my MAF uses. Couldn't get the right Bit. Had to hacksaw through the center of them and use a flat blade screwdriver in the end. Anyway, MAF on, went for a drive. No better. Still throwing up..... 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation 11-10 Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent I've just disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and I'm going to go through the Basic Settings procedure from here.. http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_ecu_reset_procedure.html If not, I'll try a lambda. But the VAGCOM readings indicate it is working. All the pipework that I can get at looks free from the leaks. The MAF and air filter are behind the bumper near the foglight and hard to access without ramps. Is the ISV only used during warm up? The car runs almost fine below 80 degrees Oil Temp. It's when warm the problem is more frequent.

Aye they just stick a pressure gauge on the fuel rail? I'm sure he has one of those.

Thanks for the top tip ;)

Coilpack is also possible. How can I test that though? Physically it looks fine and nothing in VAGCOM.

My local guy is good for oil changes and general mechanical things but I think this would have him stumped too. I need to go back to Stealth soon to get the car rolling road tuned. That's a 400 mile drive from here. I'd rather spend a bit of time now trying to fix it myself. I'll be with the mechanic at the weekend getting the A/C re-gassed. So I'll ask him to take a look.

Car is only slightly better after fitting a second hand MAF sensor. I've sprung for a new Bosch one and I'll fit it soon. 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation 11-10 Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent Could be because the MAF is still not right. But I see this can also be fuel pump or pressure regulator related. I might change the FPR as this is relatively easy (I think). But this could be what I've always suspected about the aftermarket fuel pump. I'll start with the 167 Fuel Pump relay as that's cheap and easy

I bought 2 of these Bluetooth ODB reader adapters. Neither or them would work with my VR6. Although they worked fine with my ODB2 Mk4 Golf. I then bought a "VCDS 12.12.0 VAGCOM VAG COM cable" from Amazon. This is a real cable and works 100% with the free version of VCDS from the VAGCOM website. Make sure you set the Latency on the virtual com port on your computer to "2". You will be able to interrogate the ECU, ABS Controller and Immobiliser. Read fault codes. (Although you'll only see detail for the first code in the list. The rest you can lookup online.) Clear fault codes, look at measuring blocks. Basically all a novice user needs. The immobiliser controller is probably of most interest to you. If the car won't start at all or intermittently refuses whether hot or cold. It's probably the transponder key reader coil in the lock barrel. Check the connector on it behind the dash near the headlight switch. Mine had those symptoms and I just had to clean the connector with some contact cleaner and a cotton bud.

There you go :)

Part Number for the wee clip is 032121142 If you search eBay for 025 906 041 A (the PN of the Sensor) you'll find kits with all three items from £7 to £22 in price.

Glad I read this thread. I was going to get my local mechanic to do this next weekend. But since it seems a little specialised and the car is going to Stealth later in the month anyway, I'll ask Vince to take care of this. If I use Powerflex bushes rather than VW ones. Is the job any more difficult? And will they make the ride much harsher?

I managed to find a MAF relatively cheap. Just the later type film sensor on its own, no housing. £33.69 from eBay. Just search for Part No. 0280217512

That's exactly what I mean. At the time with paying for a rebuild, charger install etc, a genuine fuel pump was just the straw that broke the camel's back. Probably the pattern one is fine. Certainly it doesn't whine like the original 18 year old one. But maybe I should have gone for a performance one at the time as they were half way between pattern and genuine in price.

Interesting you should say that. I had my fuel pump replaced last year at the same time the Charger was fitted. I used a pattern part as a VW original was £££. Since then I've always wanted to blame that fuel pump for everything that goes wrong with the running of the car because I know it's not genuine. Maybe I should go for a uprated pump. I'll speak with Vince. Regarding the MAF. He said.. "If you want new cheaper maf then get one for a Golf VR6 OBD2... Use Reg Number R109EHP on euro car parts website to get price" VAGCOM 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation 11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent 00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) 29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent 00513 - The Usual Engine Speed Sensor Fault when running VAGCOM with the engine off. All of these are historic faults. IE: before I replaced the MAF sensor. So I cleared them and I'll take it a drive tonight and rerun VAGCOM. It could be a Lambda fault but I tend to think this is showing an error because the MAF has been faulty. Could also be a wiring problem. Stealth will have extended the MAF wiring to relocate it behind the bumper. I'll try and trace the join. Must "borrow" a multimeter from work ;) I've also just ordered a new Bosch MAF. Which should arrive on Monday. I'll grab the part no of the sensor itself when it arrives.

Bosch Part No's for the MAFs are:- Early - Hot Wire 0280 213 021 VW Part # : 021906461 Late - Hot Film 0280 217 504 VW Part # : 021906462 Taken from this thread These are the entire MAF body and sensor

Symptoms returned this morning. Bloody thing! My VAGCOM cable has arrived though. So I can VCDS-Lite it during tea break and post the codes.

Yup it was the MAF. Swapped it for a spare one and went for a drive around town without a hitch. I'll keep the old one as a spare after I've given it a going over with contact cleaner. Mine's the later "hot film" type. Here's some info I found on the earlier "hot wire" model.. *** Air Mass Sensor (G70) *** A hot-wire air mass sensor is used to measure the airflow into the engine. The air mass sensor is attached to the air filter housing. The sensor housing includes a baffle grid which reduces air turbulence and pulses. The sensor has no moving parts. A thin, electrically-heated , platinum hot-wire in the sensor is kept 180°C (356°F) above the air temperature measured by the thin-layer platinum temperature sensor. As airflow increases, the wires are cooled and the resistance of the sensors changes. Current to the platinum hot-wire changes to maintain the constant temperature difference. The resulting current change is converted to a voltage signal and is used by the Motronic ECU to calculate the volume of air taken in. Dirt or other contamination on the platinum wire can cause inaccurate output signals. Because of this, the platinum wire is heated to 1000° C (1832° F) for a period of one second each time the engine is switched off to burn off this dirt or contamination. If a fault develops with the signal from the air mass sensor, the signal from the throttle potentiometer is used as a substitute in order for the car to remain derivable. A recommended way of cleaning... How do I clean out my mass air flow sensor? Take the large Ziploc bag and place the MAF sensor in it. Pour enough Isopropyl alcohol into the bag to completely cover the MAF sensor. Gently shake the bag to allow the alcohol to pass through the sensor. Take the MAF sensor out and let the excess alcohol drip off. Set the MAF sensor down on a paper towel to drip/air dry. You may want to use the compressed air spray to blow dry parts such as the connector port. Allow the MAF sensor to dry completely before reinstalling it in the car. This will take between 1-12 hours. Reinstall. I also found part numbers for early and late styles on here. I'll try and find them and post the link.

Disconnect the Mass Airflow sensor and see if it runs the same. If so, the MAF is not working. You can remove the sensor and clean it carefully with electrical cleaner spray. Mine was doing something similar. Failing that, the Idle Stabilisation Valve might be clogged up. This is fairly easy to remove. At the back of the engine beside the throttle. 2 torx hold the rear engine cover on, undo the electrical connector and pipework going into it and give it a wiggle out of it's holder. Seep it in carb or brake cleaner for 10 minutes, Shake it out along with the sootie deposits. Give the valve a wiggle back and forth with a screwdriver to check it works and refit. This is a good general maintenance tip also. Once a year or so.

Yeah so I see :(