MZpog

Welcome to the forum. Looks like nobody was up after 12 last night to welcome you then. zzzzzz Lots of info on here re spoiler sorting (wiring, module, mechanism or clocks) mine ended up being due to a failed component in my clocks the last thing I checked.

Blue/white is for the speed sensing radio that would up the volume when going faster. Connecting this to anything is likely to stop your spoiler working.

I got some nice pressed plates off ebay....doesn't help that I can't recall the seller

Noticed you've removed the "Caliber" crossovers - I hope these weren't in use with your front speakers setup as without them you could fry your tweeters.

12v power socket for mobile, sat nav or as in rear probably Nintendo's.

Welcome to the forum. Sunroof mechanism failure on the Corrado is very common (a search would have shown this). My recommendation is to swap the whole unit for a Passat (B3/B4) glass roof which is what I did and I love it.

I initially gave mine a spray round with carb cleaner, but it only really resolved when I bought a replacement (2nd hand) off ebay.

I wouldn't think that water on the battery would affect it, plus it was cranking so must have power. As for the cranking/not start, my 2.0 valver used to sometimes turn over but not start when I had an old metering head fitted which I presume was sticking. Found out (ok my mechanic did) that it would start if cranked with the accelerator fully pressed - you might want to try this when you next get the problem.

Big, so make sure you video it, lol.

OMG Wayne, you have kids so probably have the tool to see if water can get out.....A water pistol (failing this a squeezy bottle) Pull drain pipes off (like you did to shove the cable through) and at point blank, squirt water inside them and check if it gets outside. Have a cloth handy as you may just fill the pipe with water.

After fitting a 50mm intake to my valver it started doing weird/intermittent idle hunting (not sticking) but only seemed to be when it got warm. Turned out to be the elbow on top of the metering head - no obvious damage or splits, but when pressed against it stopped the hunting. Check for vacuum leaks as it will cause idle issues. Also clean the ISV while your at it.

I presume it has them as the inner/outer lifted together on tilt. Do you have a photograph or part diagram showing the piece so I can check. Wayne, keep your jinxing stares for your own car. :)

It worked on tilt only and when out of car the slide worked but then went ping so now only one side tilts. I blame Wayne, he looked at it.

I have a semi working panel up for offer. Work in Rawdon so maybe not that far for you.

Already running KR cams but thanks anyway. Done a bit of research and gains suggested are 5-10% so think I'll find something else to buy the C.

yes, as long as it comes back in the same condition

They need to come out if your not running an amp. Shouldn't take long to do. Need to arrange for you to pop up to mine one night for me to sort and fit your headlight loom.

Black doesn't need taping, red wants removing ideally (unless you want to fit an amp) but to do this you'll need to remove the fuse (if it has one and hasn't already been removed). Leave it all taped up and I'll sort it for you later.

Bolt just screws in, check its not falling inside where the catch is. The catch is holding the part that screws on

Now that red looks like an amp wire. Usually the wire would have an inline fuse just off of the battery.

It doesn't look suitable for an amp, but worth checking out. I hate bodged wiring on cars which is why I've sorted any I found on mine.

Just seen your picture of where the RCA's leads go to and saw that red wire coming from the centre consul and wondered if this was the live feed for an amp that someone left loose :suprised: It may be worth lifting your seats just to check where it goes and that it's not a live wire.

Would these fit a valver?

:thumbleft:

Wayne, put the stereo back before your set fire to sommat, lol. ISO leads power speakers from the head unit's internal amp (fronts, rears, both or none at all if external amps used). RCA's go to amp(s) to power speakers (possibly fronts, rears, sub or all 3). I assume you must have/had one or more amps if RCA's fitted and must go somewhere. Both ISO and amps can be used at the same time but not to power the same speakers. Re 6 speakers - treat as 4 speakers - the dash tweeters/door woofer are one set (components) fed by amp or head unit. The rears are the other set (you do however have 2 sets of rears - standard location and parcel shelf) The Blue wire you found may be the amp switching lead but without looking I couldn't say. Yes you found an aerial signal booster.