Scott

One thing that brake guide doesnt mention is when pushing in the pistons in the calipers you MUST un do the bleed nipple before doing this...............

I have a dented rear wheel too on the inside of the rim that is clearly evident when they were balancing my new tyres... yet it doesnt affect the handling of the car at all...

But you also have over 20lbft of torque more.... :lol: If you use the torque of the engine to pull you round the corner you will more than likely go into understeer......... :?

Agree with Kev - I do all my own servicing on my VR which means I can spend a bit on service parts and making sure its all up to date and mint - once a year I get a major service done by local VW Specialist just to keep that service history book stamped!!!! Scott

Clean it all off first with a jet wash and then keep an eye on it.....

Or Yokohama AVS Sport Tyres *:) - just had four fitted and WOW!!! *:)

LOL The only difference in the lights are the lenses.....

Yeah too much white looks tacky....

I have owned the 1.8 16v in past..... and driven a few 2.0 16v's..... 1.8 16V is the quickest... although you have to rev it.... 2.0 16V is the easiest to drive as has more mid range torque if overall slower.... Obviously if 1.8 16V you get pre face lift..... 2.0 16V has post face lift (and IMAO the best looking) ... 1.8 16V has the centre rest in rear seat though *;) (anorak alert!).... If you are thinking of going from a 1.8 to a 2.0 16V then I think you will be dissapointed......... My 2p. Scott

VERY GOOD! - my mate has one and rates it better than anything... he had a few BEL before and the Road Angel is supposed to have done excellent in tests, etc

Yup I would get down to VW and at least see if it has SOME history..... then get a FULL service and inspection done (perhaps by VW for first one or even a specialist at least) and see what needs doing.... Although Im assuming you had the car inspected properly before purchasing with no history?

Well it isnt rare - but I have not yet seen another Aqua Blue Corrado up here..... but I reckon its one of the best colours *:) - looks awesome in the sunshine .

Alot of the problem is most of the weight in Corrados is over the front wheels therefore braking too hard when going into a cornering especially in the damp / wet conditions we get will let the rear end go light and start sliding - its even worse in the VR6!!! Scott

If they have dis continued the RC's I'll cry :cry: - they are my fav wheels on the Corrado and Ive yet to buy some :cry:

You can buy a decent buffer yourself from Halfords for about £60.... I run over the car with a decent cutting compund, then followed by T cut then followed up by a cutting polish and then wax.... all my cars have always looked mint after all that :lol:

You are the same age I was when I bought my old 16V 1.8.... cracking cars - once you get past 21 the insurance should ease off a bit - it got to the point that when I got to 25 I was paying just £500 a year fully comp.... Im now 26 and running a VR6 that is still only costing £700 fully comp with named driver :D As for the cylinder head yes you are right most do need the head doing after 100k miles but this is only really true if the car has only been serviced as per VW intervals - I bought my old one with 60k miles on it and serviced every 5k miles on it - before it went to the car yard in the sky it had 115k on the clock and the engine sounded better than it did when it had 60k miles on it with not an ounce of smoke.... it really depends on how it has been looked after. Try and have a listen to a known 'mint' 16V engine and compare it to yours - the 16V's tend to get chatty on idle and suffer from valve guide / seal wear...... As for prices - expect to pay around £500 / £600 for a reconditioned cylinder head fitted. Scott

Fix the water leak and leave the engine alone :lol:

To be honest compression figures are only used as a guide of the engines condition as they can vary quite a bit just from the way you are doing the test.... I would only be concerned if the engine sounds rough, burns oil (can be seen from exhaust pipe on acceleration) and idles poorly.... otherwise leave it alone. Did you have reasons for doing the test? I did a compression test on mine a little while back and got around 160 - 170 psi according to the guage yet the engine has been rollered at 192bhp... standard. So there is pretty much nothing wrong with it - it uses half a litre of oil per 1000 miles and is smooth when accelerating hard with no smoke. Dont forget that the valves can lose their 'seal' and leak compression hence possible low readings. My 2p Scott

Help!!! I need four new tyres for my lovely VR6... but Im getting stupid quotes at the moment!!! £324 at the mo is the best!!! Can anyone help? Am in the North West........ Am not even sure what tyres I want....... LOL - must be decent obviously! I actually had one muppet who quoted ' you dont need a high performance tyre on that car............' Mmmmmmmm..... Scott.

I disagree - I cruise at 85 - 90 on motorways and get 31-32 easy...

It never fails to amaze me that people will go to great lengths to make their car secure AFTER it has been broken into.... Surely before ANYTHING else security should always come first - at least if you want to keep your car... Older cars being stolen / broken into are on the increase simply because most thieves do not have the technology to get into newer cars.... Scott.

Means sensor is 100% kaput - dead cam sensors are common and you will be about 40bhp down too

I love my speedlines too on my VR... they need refurbing and will be done soon but also fancy some 17's for shows.....and they WILL be : BBS RC's 8) :D

Excuses :lol:

You DO NOT need low mileage!!! - You need LOOKED AFTER! *:) Entertain anything with average miles and a FSH in excellent condition and you wont go wrong... my old one had 110k on it and was immaculate! - Cleaner than my VR6 I reckon !