Scott

I thought it was 6.7 to 60mph for the Type R ? - against 6.4 for the VR6 ? I was surprised too mate.... and to top it I also had a passenger (my mate) and the Type R didnt.... I expected to get beaten till I hit third gear but I was ahead all the time.... and like said by the time I got to 100mph it was way back... my mate was laughing his head off... I slowed down then and about 10 secs later the guy comes flying past me at about 120mph - too little too late me thinks :lol: :lol: But its like some people mention - it can be down to the driver and without being big headed Im better than your 'average' driver ...... :)

Blimey, I've driven a Type R and you need a lot of power to leave one so convincingly! They only weigh around 1100Kg and have good engine response in the vtec zone. Not much happens below 5000rpm though. With all the VWs I've driven, they all respond best at 4K! Except the diesels. They must come on the cam at that rpm. Kev Well I have had mine up against Type R too from standing start on the M602 (where the traffic lights start) - it was door to door till 65mph then I pulled away from it at a rapid rate... by the time I was at over 100mph the civic was way back!!! :D :lol:

LOL *:) nice one mate... Mine past first time on the first MOT that I gave it.... was a little worried I can tell you!!!

Hence why I park as far away from everyone else as I can ............ *:) - Festival Village car park is a wise choice....

Dodgy *;)

Yeah thats my mates Celica GT.... its not a bad car but its no match for my VR6..... its gutless till you hit 5000rpm then takes off like a rocket but red lines at 7000rpm... so very narrow power band... The car was a write off about 2yrs ago - my mate salvaged it and repaired it - took 9 months and vasts amount of cash.....

Yup she is *:) Well Im luckily enough to have already bought my house which has a lovely 36ft long garage out the back 8) 8) - so thats where my baby stays when not in use and fully secured like you wouldnt believe :lol: You'll have to stop by mate for few mins - am in all weekend although I am off racing Sunday so wont be in from about 12 ish... LOL - I know what you mean.... I went to Toyota dealers the other day with my mate for some parts for his Celica - Got out of the car to hear some guy tell his mate within ear shot of me say ' now THATS what you call a real car' :D :D - so off I went with the induction kit roaring on the way out - turned a few heads :lol:

You mean Springfield road :D Ive got the same delimma as my next job will have company car due to support role / contract but the missus has convinced me not to sell the VR6 if that should happen 8) Why sell ? - treat it as your weekend / fun car *:)

I have got a space and a pass with the CCGB........

I am in between Bolton and Manchester 8) Kearsley exactly..... Meet sounds good

Yes - the VR6 engine sits higher hence the need for the 'bulge' bonnet... for the engine to clear... Also on the VR6 the ABS modules sit next to the water res. tank... or just in front of it - to get the strut to clear I imagine you would need to move these.... Am pretty sure would need to buy a brace for a VR6 - and am pretty sure would still have a couple of problems getting it to clear as its very tight between bonnet and engine.....

VR Brake disk and pad change easy... although the retaining screws in front discs can be buggers to get out! :mad: Otherwise front is very simple.... Rear is a little harder as the disc has the bearings integrated into it and you also need to swop over the ABS rings I think.... Im doing the rears myself in next couple of days - already done front but dont expect any problems at all. On the rear you will need a tool to wind the pistons back into the caliper and they 'rotate' back into caliper rather than push like fronts - this is to do with the handbrake setup... Cheers Scott

Bike every time.... even if only to sample the excitement for a year or two!!! Direct access courses rock :D

I agree with Munkay to be honest. Get the G60 sorted in standard form first before doing any bodykit mods.... I would strip down and rebuild the G60 engine and have the supercharger rebuilt too - that sorts the mechanics... ready for mods... If going for a full respray (keep it SAME colour!!!) then obviously look at some body mods before you do - although bodykits and corrados go together like porsche and reliant robins! :)

Not sure about the coil overs mate but I know 100% certain that the strut brace will not fit the Corrado VR6 engine bay... it might be wide enough but it WILL foul on the abs unit / water res tank, etc....

I would just change the shocks and bushes to be honest in your situation... just go for some high quality shock absorbers and replace the top mounts, etc at same time - will make a big difference to the handling and you wont need to tell the insurance either. Cheers Scott

Well I will get the diagram out and tell you whats in it *;) Trust me - it works fine 8)

Its a easy job and involves jacking up car and removing the large hex plug....as mentioned... It made a heck of a difference to my gearbox which was very stiff when cold... nice and fluid now all the time. I got my VAG specialist to do mine whilst he was sorting a load of odd jobs *:) heh Scott.

I'd get it to Stealth racing as near you and trusted / recommended.... could be a whole host of problems.....

God, it's like 16V ownership all over again. And just like the 16V, the VR seems to get better with age and some engines are just really strong in general and some aren't! Which explains why one motoring mag couldn't get their test example to 60 in less that 7.5 seconds. Kev Couldnt agree more ..... I had my old valver rolling roaded (1.8 16V) and in standard form with nearly 120k miles on it - it was producing 138bhp / 122lbft torque.... higher than VW figs.... My VR rolling roaded with 102k miles on it at 192bhp / 185LBft torque.... standard form again.... although thats now changed :wink: So it does prove these engines get better with mileage - I drove my mates Storm about 3 months ago with 72k on the clock and let him have a go in mine and straight away he said that mine revs up quicker and feels a little faster .... all down to the mileage I feel!

Usually just opto-isolators, some resistors and a tranny.... (as in transistor not an Izzard...) I can sort a picture no problem - but yeah opto-isolators and resistors are basically what it is..... remember its not a self powered device - it is just a converter for the pulse segments - the software does the main job....

Got a mate who is a electrical wiz to make me one *:) He took apart a friends OBD connector for his Golf VR6 and made me one up from scratch - works a treat *:) Charged me a pint of lager *:) Scott

I been told this before - its not the alarm that is the problem - its electronic and rarely goes wrong - sensors do fail but I have been told by a friend who installs alarms / hi fi for a living that reliability all comes down to how the alarm system has been fitted..... He has seen taped up wires.... alarm boxes loose and banging about - you name it! As it goes I rate Clifford as one of the best systems out there... am aiming to upgrade mine to Clifford once have the pennies as my old C used to have it and never caused me any problems. I have a CODE system at the mo that is CAT 1 - but no remote locking, window closure, etc is not cool :lol: Kev is right - problems with window roll up / sunroof closure is down to the usual VW gremlins - not the alarm.... try shutting the windows / roof with the key... Scott

Mine was free :D

LOL *:) Really? - So if the 2.0 16V engine is electronic fuel and ignition controlled where does it get its info from for the engine to run? :? Scott