davidwort

A random pic from gaydon earlier this year, sits much better now the rear konis have had another spring baseplate groove machined at about 10mm higher than the normal top position, those pesky eibach springs... Corrado92.pdfIMG_4729.JPG[/attachment:3fk1kxsx] arse, april 2009 when the CV boot split and splattered grease everywhere, god knows what stabbed it :shrug: passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfIMG_4739.JPG[/attachment:3fk1kxsx] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfIMG_4741.JPG[/attachment:3fk1kxsx] new boot next to old, both pattern parts, new one has an extra lip/bead? 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfIMG_4743.JPG[/attachment:3fk1kxsx] tidying a few things up after the front bearings changed, cleaned and repainted hub and carrier: IMG_4600.JPG[/attachment:3fk1kxsx]

That reminds me of earlier this year Jim, fishing all the bits of guide out of toad's VR sump :) no wonder it had been making some funny noises.

yes mate :) I was loitering with sukh (blue95) as he's quite interested in the carbon bonnets, took me out in his synchro 1.8T, :salute: to the work he's done on that.

ah, sorry, see what you mean, so the carbon bonnet only has a fixed nut for the pins to screw into rather than a floating plate?, TBH I didn't realise the standard bonnet was like that, thought they only adjusted up and down.

saw one today, looked adjustable just like the OEM bonnet, owner said it took him a while to get them adjusted right, but that's just the normal process.

one more pic, the modified konis with two more grooves cut 10mm and 20mm above the original 2 grooves the original two grooves are the two bottom ones in the attached pic, they are about 20mm apart, I now have them set on the first of the new grooves I had cut i.e. 10mm above the highest original setting, the car now sits just right front/rear koni-sp-rear1.jpg[/attachment:1vvsxx3v]

you may find the fan still runs on if the water temp switch on the radiator is still hot enough

that's the fan run on switch I mentioned

the wire on the HT lead isn't needed for a 1.8 KR it's from a 2.016v ignition system blue and white lead is for a variable pressure gauge not fitted as standard (VDO centre console type pressure gauge ) 1st pic is the rad fan run on switch, stop fuel pipes getting too hot when engine is switched off, should run the fan if you earth the wire to the block

if the bolt is snapped off but the captive nut is still welded in place you should be able to drill the bolt out, I had to do this last weekend on a rear bumper mounting bolt, PITA, but done carefully you can avoid any damage.

this is the off-the-car adjustable sport damper from koni comes as standard with 2 grooves apparently, I couldn't remember since this pic was taken I've had two more grooves cut above the top one (one on left of pic) IIRC this is the 2587 sport and the top groove is the normal position koni-damper1024.jpg[/attachment:258lkvvf]

the MFA is definitely back lit with a conventional bulb, if the mileometer/trip is too, then the gear selection indicator should be, it's not clear from the parts diagram though.

when you cut the existing live feed to a headlight to connect it up to the relay, you need to use the wiring loom side of the cut wire as the switching feed to the relay, if you have one relay doing both sides then obviously the power output from the relay needs to go to both headlights, you don't need to use both of the existing loom wires as the switching feeds though, one will do. you also need to disconnect the big resistor (yellow wires) by the battery (on a 16v at least) as this provides dim dip on the original VAG loom and will cause your relay to trip to dip beam with just sidelights on if you leave it connected. work with just dip to start with and one relay, then it's the same process for main beam, keeps things simpler. Obviously the dip relay needs a switching feed from the old dip feed part of the loom and the other relay (main) needs one of the main beam feeds for it's switch.

ah cool, didn't see they did the flange bolts, they seem quite difficult to source generally. I need M10 flange bolts for the rear bumper fixings, at the moment all I could get was plain stainless M10 bolts from Screwfix and M10 zinc plated washers from B&Q as screwfix had no stainless washers in stock, will be a temp fixing until I get the right ones :salute:

:lol: I've already started a list of bolts and sizes, reading every page of ETKA

It's just the bracket mounting the cables to the top of the gearbox, as said above (about 20cm before the shift tower connections) pre 92 cars don't have any rubber mountings anyway and only two fixing points as their cables are mounted side by side and not on top of each other. I think the rubber bushes are just to help stop noise/vibration, but cables don't tend to transmit this as much as rod change boxes anyway.

well the Corrado is not far off twice the weight, so none of them are like go-carts, but they are much more forgiving if you enter a corner wrong :) In fact you have to be pretty stupid to get into trouble cornering in a Corrado. Lots of soundproofing too also contributes to the feeling of solidity in a C, the different type of gearbox and shifting mechanism also feels a fair bit different to the mk1/2 golf, all c's have power steering and of course the brakes work on Corrados :) A VR6 feels quite different to the other corrados as the v6 engine is so much smoother but also heavier and mounted quite far forward in the engine bay, with all the minor differences a VR6 is about 100kg heavier than most of the 4 pot corrado's (A g60 is slightly heavier than a 16v), to compensate for this the VR6 has a wider track which also helps contribute to it feeling like a different car from the 4 pots. A standard 16v engine doesn't suit the C very well, but they are quite nimble nonetheless. If the MK1 GTI was a fun car, it was mainly because the power/weight and handling was so well balanced (or on the edge!), the Corrado chassis is capable of way more power than any of them had from the factory so it's not like the mk1 in that sense, but as a fine handling FWD car the Corrado is probably on a par with the mk1 for their respective ages and competition from their eras

I understand that HT (High Tension) steel bolts shouldn't be replaced with stainless steel bolts on the car. So which bolts are considered HT? Presumably ones like the hubs to suspension legs, but what about ones like the fairly beefy M10 bumper mounting bolts? I've a lot of rusty nuts and bolts on the car and buying stainless assortments are a whole lot cheaper than buying individual bolts from VAG.

Come to think of it 2 different metals, like a steel bolt in an alloy component can sieze in quite nicely, add lots of heat and plenty of splashing with salt water and I guess it's hardly surprising it doesn't take long to make a mess. After spending most of last saturday having to drill out the rear bumper mounting bolts on my car I think I might be replacing them with stainless ones.

for simplicity just use all the stuff already on your car, 2L heads are basically identical to 1.8 ones apart from some very minor casting differences that make next to no difference.

same as mk2 16v I think, there's probably little info on here, but Club GTI might be a good place to search/ask. I think some ran just the plain K-jet system and others had extra sets of EFI injectors run by an additional ECU.

:lol: I have no idea what you are on about but it sounds great or nasty! do we have a metalurgist (spelling?) on the forum? just out of interest, I take it heat would be a major factor in this, as clamped on downpipe shields and exhaust manifold heat deflectors (for warm air pickup) seem to corrode very fast too.

they seem to be a very springy steel and galvanised, they're more of a nut than a washer :) where about's have you had trouble with them because most of mine and a lot I see on old golfs etc in scrap yards are in pretty good nick, as they are exhaust heat shields they support, are yours in a very high heat area? you could paint them in high temp paint or hammerite or something before fitting new ones.

you might get away with 1cm, but more than that would be visiable I think, I guess you could slide another (separate type) spring baseplate over the damper body to sit on top of the existing one?? - but you'd see that easily if inspection is likely to be a problem.

the bits circled in your 1st post are simply a nylon anti-creak washer for the bottom of the spring and a dust cover for the top of the damper, some dampers just don't have those fitted, no real problem though. If you increased the size of the rubber upper mount I don't think you'd get the top nuts and washer on inside the car with the top rubber bush too, you'd loose thread length on the top of the damper piston.