davidwort

K-jet 16v specific, so mk2 16v parts will be the same, or possibly from other K-jet cars like old fords or volvos. 2.0 16v 9A Corrado system runs different pressures though (KE jet) although the system is very similar in appearance, edit: nope, I lied, checked the part numbers and the KR and 9A share the same in tank pump and external fuel pump but accumulators are different parts

CO needs setting at idle first (long hex key into top of metering head) before using the idle speed adjustment screw to tweak the rpm, need this done on a gas analyser to get about 1-2 % CO, but you can do it quite well by ear, i.e. when it runs smoothest. Ideally a new set of injectors is required to get a really good idle on a 16v, after 100K the injectors get worn and don't spray nice and evenly, particularly at idle (cleaning won't recover them). Correct Idle should be in the range of 950-1050rpm

or get some of the Wurth or similar plastic trim dye mentioned in the recent plastic trim restoration thread, this will permanently re-dye the plastic with the same chemicals/colouring used in their original manufacture

got a small leak on the cap on the bottom of the 02A gearbox (under the selector tower), looks like the cap has been off before, sealant looks messily applied and squeezing out, anyone know if a sump sealant would do the job? the loctite stuff from halfords or the Dirco Elring stuff that GSF do seems to cover this sort of use? http://www.gsfcarparts.com/982vg0010 or http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_173106_langId_-1_categoryId_255217 I actually need some to redo the pan on my mk4 (alloy sump which uses sealant not a gasket), so need some anyway and can't be bothered to deal with the local vw dealer and to pay through the nose for the VW stuff, I know some people will only use the VW sealant, but how different can it be? BTW, I had a new genuine alloy sump after a piece of metal dropped by an HGV punctured the old one and the genuine VW sealant applied by the garage (some years back) is leaking, although I think they rushed the application and didn't clean the surfaces properly :roll:

What you really need is plastic dye: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WURTH-PLASTIC-DYE-BLACK-75MLS-BUMPERS-RUBBERS-CLOTH-PLASTIC-FOOTBOARD-TRIMS-/120871417777 or possibly the cheaper... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plasticare-Trim-Dye-BLACK-Plastic-Rubber-Bumper-Paint/261275125932?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D74%26meid%3D942928462537596466%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1048%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D120871417777%26 the Wurth stuff does look very good: http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/11881-wurth-bumper-dye-in-grey-before-and-after-pics/

how about this sketch, my attempt to show the difference in cross section structure of a saloon with a pressed metal rear bulkhead up to rear window base height, a hatchback and a hatchback with an X brace, which do you think will distort when it hits a bump on one rear wheel :) [ATTACH=CONFIG]75511[/ATTACH]

anyone else notice how much the corrado body distorts when you jack it up, on both my cars the doors don't shut as well if you jack the car up at one corner, my mk4 golf has a much stiffer shell and the doors don't seem to be affected by jacking up. I'm assuming it's mainly the rear that twists as the front has the big bulkhead and bonded screen to stiffen everything up. what I'm not sure about is whether a X brace would cause any problems making the shell too stiff at the rear and a simple straight bar with pivoting mounts that allows up/down movement would be better, vibration/noise for example I'm guessing the X bar that Kev suggests would probably be better all round as the Jettas I've had were definitely much better bodies than the golf equivalents and the saloon structure effectively gives the X bracing.

good forum that, read a lot on there myself, no substitute for trying yourself though! I bought 500ml of basecoat and resprayed two Corrado wings with it - just, I'd be on the safe side and buy a bit more than a professional would spec for a certain size of car, gives you the chance of making mistakes without having to go to the expense of ordering more. I've also found 2 pack clearcoat far harder to get right than basecoat though, easy to put too little down and not get the gloss or too much and it runs very easily. Good fun learning though, because once you get a good finish on something it's very rewarding :)

good luck with the car, plenty to keep you busy there :)

I think some of these aftermarket braces are very over-engineered, if you look at strut tower braces on cars like the S3 they're not massive as all they do is stop the towers bending towards or away from each other so just take a bit of compression or tension. There seems to be a trend to make braces look like heavy duty roll cage sections, attracts the punters more than a small bar I guess.

don't have an answer I'm afraid, but my 1990 16v has only ever had the fuel filter here replaced (everything else is original) and I think I'll be investigating this over the weekend as I'm suspicious about a fuel leak here too.

they can be well siezed up though and due to limited access have some irwin bolt grippers or similar on standby :)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75507[/ATTACH] 16v passed with no advisories!

Why are wheels measured in inches anyway? Did the British invent the wheel? I love the fact that tyres are inches in diameter and mm in width, but on inches width rims. :scratch:

well you might have not seated one front spring properly in the strut or have a collapsed top mount but the rears are way too low, I don't hink I've ever seen a fixed height spring and damper kit that would make the rear sit that low, even my konis on the lowest spring plate setting and my eibach springs wouldn't drop the rear that low, something is very wrong.

Yeah great, will pm you.

bump

Sounds like you've found the problem then, I don't think cleaning ever fully recovers that type of maf sensor, It may well need a new one. If you can get the ecu scanned, preferably with vcds (vag com) It should throw some light on the cause, sensor giving out of range values etc, at least this type of maf is fairly common as used on lots of golfs, passats etc with the 2l 8v engines, should be able to get one for a reasonable price new/recon.

I agree, but I use the eezi bleed for service/changing fluid every year or two and resort to other methods if needing to get pedal feel back after doing major brake component changes.

I'm sure there's some other postings on this but the early corrados had a panel for two round gauges in the centre cubby hole. there is also a feed in the existing loom from the top of the oil filter housing to the fuse board area (blue/ white wire) you need to replace one of the existing low pressure switches with a dual output sensor for the low pressure warning and variable feed to the oil pressure gauge. you then need to take feeds for ignition switched power, illumination and earths from elsewhere in the dash looms, cig lighter is good. the proper plastic gauge panel is discontinued, if you can't find one second hand then it's not too difficult to make something up.

What connection, If it's a low speed USB cable it could literally take days! A bit of googling and at USB 1 speed, which could be as low as 1Mb/sec I reckon I will take 130 hours :lol:

Dilemma comes with heavy shopping a long way away though :)

Anyone have one of these kicking about in good nick? The short side rub strip that goes on the wing in front of the door rub strip? Must be a few about from rusted out wings and cars with them removed altogether :)

Late cars have a 70l tank, early shell 55l (lower boot floor and higher gallon figures on dash!), other changes include moving from hook to bar exhaust hangers and revised electrics, sunroof closing on locking iirc

Depends on fitting to the block, I know the 1.8 16v had the early type but the 2l 16v the late type, looks similar but top bolt is offset on the late type