davidwort

I don't know what the problem is, governments set targets so companies do whatever they can to meet the targets, pretty ingenious to detect the car is in a test rig situation though. There was a time when only specially prepared examples were sent for testing, making them even further from the real production vehicles people buy. It's no worse than test images and showroom settings on big screen TV's. At the end of the day if you are going to buy a new car anyone with any sense will find some independent reviews first, would you select a hotel these days from one glossy brochure picture?? There is a big issue about Governments favouring CO2 emissions over particulates, but then again that's only a result the EU setting emission targets for our government!

Yes, factory calibrated metering head, so it has a tamper proof cap

MOT time again, failed last week on the rear wheel bearing adjustment, picky tester IMO although the offside rear was probably a bit too wobbly :) He seemed happier this time after I tightened them up a little, so another 12 months ticket applied :)

The engine sits on the two rear mounts (main block and GB mount) on top of the subframe, which is then bolted right under your feet, with the less than smooth 4cyl engines you just transmit everything to the body and steering, to make it worse the rear mounts compress slightly under power so any give is even less, although idle tends to to feel the worst. Time and time again people have advised not to use VT or similar mounts on anything but the front mounts but I can see it's tempting to go for mounts that hold the engine very firmly. As for the fixed steering column, removing the height adjuster joint will probably just make vibration worse, I'd recommend the best quality standard hydraulic mounts you can source, possibly with a VT front mount on the more powerful/torquey engines as the strain is in the lifting of the front mount and that seems to be where the standard rubber/hydraulic ones fail. I also think the 2L 8v engine is probably the smoothest so probablt feels the best out of the 4cyl cars on hard mounts

if you attach them to a post make sure they are smaller than a couple of mb, or use something like flickr and get the bb link from the share option, then you'll get a thumbnail added automatically in your post sometimes phone or tablet browsers don't like the forum upload feature, use basic uploader and you should stand a better chance

it's worth putting something over the vent, even if it's just some old tights ( :lol: ) always a bit of a shock to get a face full of dried leaves

I'd probably approach your neighbours first, gently ask some questions around the subject of where the plots end etc, just to sound them out, even if you had clear land registry maps they might not like what you tell them!

if not then cut a slit in the rubber mount then pop the rivet out and super glue back up

it does come out but the part you need to remove is the skin off your knuckles and some of your wrists

fan overrun switch for when the engine is off but under bonnet temp high, think it's like 105 degrees, the part is used on other cars including audis, it's not essential but prevents fuel vapourising in the fuel lines in very hot conditions and causing starting problems

very nice looking car, lovely interior and a good colour IMO. I'd set the price fairly high and hang on to it until you get a very strong offer, 8k seems a lot but there are fewer and fewer good ones around now and for comparison a concours car would be several grand more I think.

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?12282-davidwort-s-16v-looking-a-bit-shinier/page28 there are some pics of my early 16v door here and some earlier pages have the late spec door of my old 8v, they might help

can't.. resist.. any longer... up yer tailpipe would be my suggestion

the centre panel locks into the roof panel with the roof just partly open I've found, hard to describe but you slide the trim panel including the surround forwards and then lift the opening part and slide the whole thing back and the opening panel clicks into place

I think that's worth a go, it's probably cheaper than any two tin purchase online of any 2k lacquer and handy you can spray it straight on. If for any reason you get a run or dirt in it you can always flat it back and Polish it up again. I remember painting yellow tint on my mk1 spots years ago and with no prep that stayed on at least a couple of years so this is well worth a try I reckon.

have a look at page 22 of my 16V thread, I repaired a cog with a 13mm bolt cut down

there is a review of the golf gte in this month's volkswagen driver I think

there's a place in Birmingham I think that does rechroming of mgf plastic headlight reflectors, was discussed on here a while back, not cheap to get done though, but it's either that or second hand I think now.

Mine arrived today too, fantastic thank you, great service too.

I'm sure they'll be fine, after all the Prius has been going since 2003 and they don't have a particularly bad reputation. Whether they'll be an economical buy privately from new is another thing altogether, despite quoted mpg figures and general public impressions of diesels, hybrids and full electrics the most economic buy for most when everything is factored in would probably be a conventional petrol.

if it's a bar type system (which it is) it should mate up to the cat or downpipe the same for 2L16v or G60 But if it was me I'd take my time before buying a S/H stainless system, they can be loud, make no difference to performance (worse in some cases) and although the pipes and boxes may be sound they still get loose rattling baffles, cracked bracing or mountings and generally sound really poor (mainly loud) a new mild steel system can be a better buy and a custom made system (maybe stanless) not dramatically more, with that you get something that is new, warranty and to your requirements.

no it's simply a 2 part mix of lacquer and hardener so chemically cures rather that's evaporating thinner, goes off in about an hour at room temperature and is far tougher than cellulose/rattle can paint, the stuff I've used was left over from a kit of vw wheel silver and lacquer that I repainted some wheels with, very tough impervious to Petrol, thinner etc once cured and sticks like the proverbial so hoping it bonds to the glass well, no reason why not, I've had old lights with over spray on them and that sticks well enough with no priming oh, and I just used a soft modelling brush to apply it. I've also had a go at repairing a stone damaged glass from the inside and that's looking good too 20150716_075401 by David0011, on Flickr

Well have a look at the photo here Early corrado fog light by David0011, on Flickr anything look odd? half has been coated in 2k lacquer, the whole glass was pitted the same before I'm amazed at the difference it's made, all the pitting has pretty much disappeared Early corrado fog light by David0011, on Flickr Early corrado fog light by David0011, on Flickr Early corrado fog light by David0011, on Flickr

there were minor body changes like thinner rear arch lips, but nothing that affects running gear other than the exhaust hanger type change AFAIK

yep, no worries there, only dampers and springs were rated differently on the different years/models.