Yandards

No wasted space there!

Had me going there! Those wheels need polishing to mirror though :wink:

Didn't Henny film all the runs on his digcam last time?

Nice but there is no way they will get that trolley jack under the front splitter - it musy be slammed :wink:

I have most of the tool but am missing the section the fits over the bush to push it back in. I do know what it looks like though so if you have a spare bush it would be possible to make one. CNC is the way forward!! I can bring it to the RR day if you want.

Like the sound of that Jim, you could edit the 'closing fly by' shot to be shown before/after the road run for each car. With a bit of co-ordination on the filming side it would be nice to get the inset shots of the dyno readings as the cars run up the rollers this time. Would also like to see the plots on all the cars as an extra feature. (If someone takes a pic of the plot Vince hands over to the owners post run it should be doable that way) A long fly by shot of all the cars on the day in a long convoy would be awesome,(in age order to be anally retentive :wink: ) could do it coming out of stealths carpack and go left. If the camera is set a little way down the road and out in it a touch you could achieve a nice snake effect.

Dave drop me a PM with your e-mail on and I can send you some, er, 'originals' of the rack section of the drivetrain manual. About 55megs worth though.

My C has lived in a garage all its life except for about 9 months when I first bought it and I didn't have a garage with the house. It really has kept all the rubber bits of the car looking fresh, even after 16 and 1/2 years I am still on my original roof rubbers with no sign of having to trim the inboard edges. Using some toolkit foam screwed to the wall instead of carpet as it is a bit thicker. I must be dead lucky as I can get my C in the garage, with an engine stand and have enough space at the end for some cuboards! (Moving soon though and I have my eye on a 23 x 26ft monster garage that comes with the house - its all about priorities!!)

Fitted my ARP bolts no problems to my 16v G60 build but can't comment on anything else as the engine is still in bits!

That's just crazy! Can't be legal.

And you can't get those in MPH anymore. If you have the later instrument pods with the digital mileage and trip then you will need to change the entire PCB in the pod.

I suppose Suzuki figure it will do more for there image by letting Top Gear total 10 cars in a 5-10 minute section that looks like a complete laugh than a few prime time daytime :wink: advertising slots on TV. The new Swift was all of 7k I think, and that's retail price so you could probably chop 50% off that. So for a grand total of around 40k (They used 11 cars) lots of people will talk about it and the new Swift has a good image in the fun department. Great show as well, they really don't work for a living - love the comment about the Jag being like Hammond.

As one of the forum members subject to Nick's abuse it was all good clean fun :? :wink: We had most of it done in a less than a day just struggled getting a top nut undone from the suspension that had been air gunned on too tight. Nick, you forgot to mention the 40 minutes arsing around with the CV joint circlip and the technical adjustment on your BNC Carbon can as well. I have driven Nick's car after the work he has done to it - it really is a superb example of some fairly discreet mods that make the car a lot better.

Totally agree with you Paul. Ratios do need to be well matched to the output of the engine you are using and suitable for what you want to use the engine for, drag, track road etc. This thread has been more interesting in the aspect that it is possible to find a newer VAG box that is 6 speed and pretty much fits 'off the shelf'

You can have a look in the flesh soon Chubby as I am moving up to elgin area with work in a few months :wink:

Er when I bought it was about £400 more than it is now.. You can get it from here for pretty cheap( :? ) http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/2313.html As I mentioned in another thread the hide away box is slim enough to sit under the Corrados seats and the GPS receiver is tiny enough to hide in the front window without it really standing out. Vehicle dynamics are a good laugh to look at too - lets you know how many G you are pulling etc.

Can recomend the AVIC X1. Sticks out a little bit but the hide away box sits nicely under either the driver or passengers seat. Pic of install is not the best but you get the idea.

Myself and 2cc are currently doing some investigation into the infamous Koni TA and H&R setup on valvers/G60's as the ride quality on that set-up when compared to a VR is a lot crashier. Worth noting is that the H&R springs for a valver are also intended for use with standard dampers - unlike the VR6 springs which H&R recommend for use with sports dampers. On top of that Koni TA dampers that fit the VR6 are also, according to Koni, identical to all other Corrados both front and rear. Interestingly this also ties in with what VW fitted to the cars - the dampers on later 2.0l 16v, 2.0l 8v and VR6s are identicle. I had a set of FK konigsport coilovers and didn't like them as they were too crashy even on 185/60/R15s!! Switched to Koni TA's with H&R's and they are better but still not as good as I would have liked. To re-iterate what others have said - it is best to try some other peoples cars to get a feel for what you find acceptable.

Well if it is it will be a darn sight cheaper if whoever wants one can source one from somewhere than the £1800 you would be looking at to buy the quaife conversion kit! Lets have those pics please Cole!!

Right so to clarify, if you want a six speed box that is a direct replacement for any corrado gearbox you need to source a gearbox with a code of GLB? These are fitted to Audi A3s from 5/03 to 8/03 and Golfs from 5/04 to 5/04 BTW. Anyone know what the cruise ratio is in 6th for these?

Very interesting thread. Cant seem to find any reference to an 02J box though.

Tidy car, sad that is more than likely to be broken up due to the seats. :(

Cloth reccaros are worth as much now as they were as an option when the car was new. Work that out :?

Okay for some dumb reason the top nuts on Koni's are 21mm not 22mm If some chimp has done these up too tight when the were first fitted (Only needs to be 60NM or 44 lb.ft on a VR) then you are really going to struggle to do this by hand. Easiest way we found was to go to Halfords, get a 21mm double depth impact socket for an alloy wheel (It has a red plastic sleeve on it and is very thin walled) You will then to drill out the plastic insert inside the socket to clear the top of the strut. After that it was a quick trip to Kwik fit and a case of, "Can you put an air wrench on that please mate?" Job done, no scuffed knuckles and no rounded off nut. Kvwloon if you still on OE springs and dampers then you will need spring compressors to replace the top mounts. Also the torque loadings for an early setup are the same for the top cap nut but different for the strut bearing retaining nut (The one with the two cut outs in it) - this should be 40Nm or 30 lb ft.

This also applies to brakes - fit larger radius rims and you shove all the weight and inertia out by an inch, your brakes have to work harder to overcome the mass, so they are not as effective at stopping the car. There is also a school of thought about the damage and increased wear on your suspension by fitting heavier wheels; more mass for the springs and dampers to deal with will only make them wear out faster. I have noticed a difference between using the standard 'Sebring' wheels that I am on at the moment and the BBS RMs that I usually run. The 'sebrings' are crashier over bumps and the car feels slower. Given the choice, I mean funds :) , I would love a set of 15" BBS RSs on there as they are a full 800 grams lighter than the RM's. Here is a link Kev posted up a while ago about wheel weights: http://www.wheelweights.net/