Yandards

Ah cool, Both the Top gear features ('88 and recent one) are on the Rolling road day vid along with the Driven episode. Would love to see the other Top Gear one though.

Hopefully they will take all of your points onboard but we will have to wait and see. Hopefully the marketing types will see the value in producing a modern version of a 'rocco that is true to the original; a light mainstream production car with a good engine is an unusual thing in the current market place.

I am more than happy with my 15" RM's when they are on the car but it is 35mm lower so the wheel fills the arches more.

Heh quality even if it did have some sort of impact on the cancellation of the TSR2. Ahem.

Ok, After looking at my wiring diagram manual for the C relay in position number 12 (So the relay with 80 on it in Supercharged's pic) is the fuel pump relay - this can be numbered 67 or 80. The two relays number 53 in the pic are in positions 10 and 11 and are for the two tone horn. The relay numbered 99 in the pic should be numbered 19 according to my info and is for the wash wipe - this is in position 8. The relay numbered 21 in the pic is for the emergency light (Hazards) and is in position 6. The relay with no number on it should be numbered 18 and is for the X contact, this runs things like the air blower, heated rear window and windscreen wipers. The relay numbered 30 in the pic is for the digifant control unit and according to my manual it should be numbered 53 and is in the number 3 position. The relay numbered 72 in the pic is for the intermitant wipe on the front and rear windows. This is all taken from a UK VW electrical manual for the Corrado but I don't have any updates hence the differing relay numbers.

Yeah work enforced but it secures my job for another 14 years! It has taken a long time and I am in a position to get the engine in; but I am worried that sorting out the inevitable teething problems will leave me with a car that isn't running when I move. Annoying as I want to drive the car with the extra power and torque thats sat on the engine stand right now.

I am getting the splits blasted and painted by some guys at work and then rebuilding them myself. Found a guy on german e-bay that does chrome bolts to TUV spec for about £7.50 for 10 delivered. When I get the wheels back I was going to e-mail and ask how much for the job lot of 120. Still works out cheaper than the £1 a shot that I can find over here. Be moving up near you soon Chubby so you could always have a look!

Thanks MM, and that is just one part of the system and will not include the manufacturing tolerances on both the wheels and the tyres.

Fairly confident it is at least 10% plus a figure as a minimum. As most speedo's are dependant on the outer circumferance of the tyre to give an accurate reading and you can start at around 8mm and drop down to 1.8mm (I think) then someone who is better at mathstthan me should be able to work out the difference in your speedo reading. On top of that older cars use mechanical systems that have manufacturing tolerances that will give a range of readings depending on where in the tolerance range the one you have fitted is. So to cut a long story short they have to give you an allowance to allow for the variables that are inherrent in the way a speedo works.

Few more pics of the engine under construction - still waiting on two bolts from VAG that hold the water pump on and then have a threaded section to hold the charger bracket on. Belt routing pic has been modded since I took it after some advice from the club Gti guys who are doing/have done this conversion.

Walsey quality vid. £680 for parts sounds steep for just parts when changing a head gasket though. After a quick look I think it should be closer to £300 for parts and thats with new exhaust & inlet manifold gaskets. Should be even cheaper if you went down the GSF route. I may be wrong of course!

There is a lot more to consider than just slapping an engine in - for starters G60 drive shafts are a larger diameter to cope with torque compared to a 16v car. You can pick up an entire 16v engine for peanuts right now and as you only want a head you can sell the other bits you don't need. I agree with some of the other posters that you have a bit of history (The only one remaining unless someone can tell me otherwise) and it is worth keeping that way.

Very good indeed, that can't be easy to do

Added to Kev's explaination would be that the original suspension set up on the C is a compromise weighted towards comfort as oppossed to handling. By fitting 'sportier' suspension you are already firming up the back end through corners and thus negating some of spoilers intended effect. As for the camp in this interesting conversation that continue to insist that spoiler does nothing useful :wink: and is purely a marketing gimick - you don't need a big change in airflow to have a massive impact on the affect of the airflow on the rear of the car. I would also expect the top end speed to be higher with the spoiler down as it induces drag, but the same experiment would produce a slower car through high speed corners.

I think this is 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. The spoiler on a C when deployed at the correct speed does achieve a function of keeping the rear end of the car more planted than without it. No-one can argue against that without changing the laws of aerodynamics. The 'moustache' on the TT does exactly the same thing but was designed to be as small as possible and to only have an effect on the car at speeds in excess of 100mph due to the accident profile with that car. The C on the other hand had a spoiler designed from the word go to be effective at speeds in excess of 75mph, so that is what it will do. The marketing point comes in as it makes less difference in this country as the deployment speeds are much lower than 75mph. What we all have to think about is that the spoiler was designed to reduce lift on the rear of a standard Corrado, many of the mods carried out to suspension will reduce the originally intended effect of the spoiler mechanism. I like the spoiler on my car, but it does pi$$ me off that it wont go down at a higher speed and it goes up too early for me as well. (47mph)

Also worth considering Miltek/JMR's big bore down pipe instead of the TSR four branch manifold. I don't have any figures but after driving my car with this setup and 2cc's standard valver mine is quicker through the revs although his does feel torquer lower down. For info on a good flowed 16v head (Up to 252bhp on a 1.8 normally aspirated) have a look and a drool over this beauty. http://www.cncheads.co.uk/vw_1800_16v.html As a taster:

I have run both FK kongisport coilovers and Koni TA's with H&R springs on my 16v. I did find the coilovers to be a very hard and crashy ride at all ride heights but I do find the TA's with H&R's to be a much better set-up. Best advise is to get your mate to try cars with both types of set-up to see which he prefers; but be aware that some cars have had fresh rubber suspension componets by now so will feel tighter.

Few more shots from E38 last year - on standard rims while I get my splitties refurbed.

Only problem with Lupos is that they need to go around in groups so they don't get picked on by the bigger cars; that and they only come in fruut pastel flavoured colours. :) They do look like nice cars but isn't the SEAT Aroza 1.4 16v the same car?

That just about does it for me but I feel these points should be added: With no 3rd party built crappo sunroof mechanism and some high grade steel components in the door handle mechanisms.. :wink: Understated but aggressive looks would drop in on my list. Oh and it has to go around corners really really well too. :twisted:

Only problem I find when polishing is looking at all the white undercoat shinning through the paint when stones have hit the car :( Think this is probably the most expensive car wax you can but though.. Divine Each year the Swissol factory blend for a very limited number of collectors and enthusiasts a wax of most exceptional quality containing over 60% by volume of ultra pure Brazilian white carnauba. It is made to order and is specifically formulated to meet the paint system of individual cars. £ 1,280.00

You and your flaming wheels..... :wink:

Damn that would have been good, I always wonder about how much of the enthusiast input they actually take note of though. In a purist rocco form it should be quick and light but I doubt that it will be both of those these days.

Just picked this mag up today in town. I am on the right on Henny, or left on the pic. Hope no-one from work spots it or it will cost me a slap of beer. Nice article Jay.

Not 100% sure about this but arn't the 16v goofs prone to a bad earth on the starter motor causing this sort of problem? Could be a sticking starter solenoid/relay as well.