Yandards

As you are still using the Vr box then won't an LSD help with the application of the extra power you now have?

Trivia of the day is that the 16v crank and G60 are the same component for those who didn't know. Gotta agree with rmn, as long as you get everything checked over and balanced etc then the 4 cylinder blocks are all very similiar.

Very interesting article, especially with reagrd to the oil scrappers for the crankshaft and getting the block crankshaft bearing houses milled for true alignment.

G60 16v's done right are a lot of work and you can cut corners but it seems to impact on the reliability of the setup from what some people have reported. If you do upgrade to more power you need to think about brake upgrades, the 16v driveshafts can't take the extra power and torque so you will need to swap them for G60 ones. As for budgeting a G60 16v then you are looking at getting a charger, which I would then recommend you get rebuilt by G-werks, so thats the better part of £1000 out of your pocket. You will also need a load of G60 parts like charger brackets, rad, ECU, engine loom, fuel rail, a mix match of 16v and G60 cooling houses, custom alternator brackets, a scirocco 16v inlet manifold, G60 throttle body, intercooler, boost tubing, lots of different pulleys, preferably custom low compression pistons although you can get away with stacked head gasekts, custom map on completion, and that's just off the top of my head!! From my personal experience I would say it is a hell of a lot better to start with a G60 for this conversion, as most of necessary wiring and components are already in place. Done right this conversion kicks about 210bhp on a 'standard' set-up, although with various bits of tunning it is capable of kicking out over 300 (Or so I am told) The difference between the charger and the turbo is that the power is much more usable with the charger set-up - no point in having a 400bhp turboed valver if it torque steers into the hedge when the boost comes on!! A few bits of furthur, although not extensive reading on 16v 60's can be found on some of these pages: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/16vG60/ http://www.clubgti.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=76016&PN=1 http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/16v.php

Hope it all goes smoothly for you.

Nuts. Without sounding like too much of a selfish doom monger I hope they are still able to do tours this year.

Ok Sam looked at fuel pumps for you. There are at least 3 different types fitted to a G60. I assume you have no external fuel pump and that it is all contained in the tank with the sender. According to a popular VW parts catalogue (Ahem) you should use part no: 1H0 919 651 Q between chassis numbers 50-L-005-733 to 50-M-035-000, this is a VDO pump assembly. For chassis numbers 50-N-000-001 to 50-R-008-000 you need exactly the same part number as before :? The only difference I can see is in the senders - you either get a VDO or a Pierburg one but as the pump is that same I would hope that it is interchangable between the two types of sender. It does state that you need 2 sets of parts when fitting the pumps - for the first VDO pump you need 000 979 105 - this is a set of electrical connections, and 1H0 979 673 F a VDO fuel gauge sender. The later pump also requires the electrical connections but the fuel sender is different, part no: 535 919 673 F, just listed as a fuel gauge sender. Hope that helps as it is all bit muddled on the manual as well.

Early/late difference as well as a 4/6 cylinder difference. Up to chassis number 50-S-004-000 you will need part no: 536 721 555, from 50-S-004-001 it's part no: 536 721 555 D. Both are £23.08 each from VAG

That sounds like a plan to me! Think we had better leave it until the scuttle covers have been done though :wink:

I can see why a wobbly bolt would be a cause for concern!! Sounds like you got away with it - lucky it wasn't summer.

Very tidy install. It is a shame no one is making a molding for this sort of work so the rest of us who are less talented can do it too..

I assume you are running an oil cooler in all that setup? If so then the head should be fine, but that is useful info for anyone using cambelt tensioners to tension g-lader ribbed belts.

It's on the water flange attached to the cylinder head. There should be 2 sensors on top of this held in by U shaped spring clips. You want the sensor closest to the cylinder head and it should be either green/black or a combination of the two. That's assuming it is the sensor and not the gauge, my water temp gauge sticks sometimes after a period where the car has not been used.

That's a tough one, I think it would depend on who was selling and who was buying it. After all it is only worth more than a standard VR if someone is willing to pay that much.

Does anyone know what the warranty is for FK konigsport coilies? My front ones no longer extend when compressed so it is the damper that has gone tits, I was under the impression these were lifetime warrantied so I would like to return them for replacements.

Drool... Jay you are going to have to stop making that car better, even if it was by accident this time. That is a truely stunning looking piece of workmanship and I am sure the pictures don't do it justice. How much would that quality of work all over cost the rest of us mere mortals?

Yeah the wiring diagram is just a straight run of wire, according to my info it should be green wire with a black stripe on it. It should run straight to the back of the fuse box and is on the G2 plug at terminal 1 if you wanted to test the wire.

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 818#120818 ;) I knew someone had one just couldn't remember who. I did say you would be 'hard pushed' not impossible. I bet RW1 probably has an OE one just because he has everything ever made for the C, even if it's never been fitted :wink:

Wiring diagrams I have don't show a relay either.

The bottom part of the bumper that is cracked and bent (Not the bit that fell off) is called the air guide grill. This has two variations depending on when your car was made. I am guessing you need VAG part number: 535 853 671 J this is about £45 inc VAT and is suitable for cars 50-N-000-001 to end of line, you can find this number as part of the VIN number. As for re-attaching the front splitter I would go with the get some bigger washers plan and fit those as it will save you some serious cash (£100 + for a new 90mm one from VAG) You will need the following new bolts and fastners if you have some missing. 5 x N 015 946 1 Hex Head Panel Screw (A6 5x19) 5 x N 101 473 01 Snap nut (ST6 3x24.5x16) 5 x N 904 338 01 Fitted bolt self locking (B6,3x30) That is all the bits that hold the splitter onto the bottom of the bumper, I would expect you to have some of those missing and I would also expect you will need some washers so they don't pull through where it was ripper off.

You would be hard pushed to find a C owner on here who owns a roof rack let alone fitted one! £1800 does sound quite reasonable and you have already done the hard part by finding someone with a good reputation. If you get just the front blown over then make sure you get the wing mirrors done as well; a few chips in these are really obvious.

And for those that are wondering furthur here is some geeky info: Some specs: - Flying 50-200ft above automatically using ground terrain following radar at up to 800 knots - Max speed in excess of mach 2.5 - a mere 300mph slower than the speed record set by the SR71 'Blackbird' - Take off time of 12 secs and up to an altitude of 50,000 ft in another 50 secs - Built in test equipment for all major systems (Self diagnosing electrics etc) - Aircraft were mostly self-sufficient and all equipment required to operate them was airportable. - 1800 ft take off distance - Moving map display - First aircraft to be equiped with a Zero Zero ejection seat (Meaning you could safely eject from a static aircraft, all other previous seats required forward speed of the aircraft usually above 80 knots) - A wingspan of less than a Hurricane fighter plane - Faster than the chase plane Lighting aircraft which is basically an engine with a very very small wing. What was truely brilliant about this aircraft was that it was just so far ahead of its time. All of the above was flying in 1965 after only 8 years from the initial specification being placed. It was an entirely British project and was 15-20 years ahead of anything else made by anyone in the world. I have no doubt that if it was not still in service now it would only just have been retired. It is a more cabable aircraft than its eventual replacement, the Tornado, and would have cost at least 4 times less than that airframe. The final piece of irony is that this project was cancelled due to politics. Namely the government of the time cancelled a huge number of British aircraft projects - a supersonic Harrier (Only now just finishing initial flying trials as the JSF) and a Vertical take off transport plane. All of these were replaced with an order for American F111's (Which were over 10 years late and many times more expensive) Phantoms and Hercules. It is also possible to blame Mountbatten (That tool the IRA blew up) for going to Australia after the sales team for TSR2 had been and persuading the Aussies to buy the F111. Why did he go? Mostly because he wanted the Navy to have more carriers and buy Bucaneer instead - an infinetly less capable aircraft. The best example of a TSR 2 can be found at the RAF museum at DCAE Cosford in the Midlands.

Nah not really - just really liked it when I first saw one and doing some digging into the project just made me like it even more. Shame it was cancelled, was a good 25 years ahead of it's time in performance and capability. You can blame that t**t Mountbatten for the cancellation more than most though. It was a Bloodhound SAM for those who are interested.

Would put mine back to totally standard and get a standard one of each model. Then get a couple of sheds, G60 and VR, and turn them into a G60 16v and Supercharged VR for fun.

Ahem.. :wink: