Jump to content

SR_Neale

Members
  • Content Count

    702
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by SR_Neale


  1. You can buy textured paint for any decent paint supply shop and fleabay. I would flat them down with 800 wet and dry then use the texture paint after a coat of plastic adhesions promoter. I wouldn't use any type of thinners or brake fluid as it will damage the plastic. I also have some early one in good condition if all else fails.


  2. Not quite. When a car has an accident its my job to remove all MET (mechanical/electrical/trim) that needs to come off which could be as little as a headlight or in some cases the whole interior or all the exterior trim etc etc. Then the car moves onto the hairy arsed panel beaters they will bang out dents to replace new panels. Depending on type of body shop they will also do the filler work but some have prepers who will do the filler work,prime and flat work, then into a booth where the painter works their magic. Then its off for a flat and polish. Next up for a valet before coming back to me to bolt everything back on. Then back to happy customer.


  3. thanks m8

     

    seats....they will be being tackled once the warmer weather arrives, too bloody cold to be wrestling with then on a driveway

    I do like it when the weather gets better you can get so much done over that 5 or 6 days lol.


  4. time goes so fast when outside of work but then sloooooows down during work hours

     

    i constantly run out of time on the weekends & juggling refurbing my house along with 2 rado's i could do with 6 months off work lol

     

    hopefully you can get some testing done soon

     

    new job, congratulations - a good one i hope :)

    Back to playing with cars all day long as a strip fitter. Nice and close to home too so result all round.


  5. intermittent faults - you gotta hate them!

     

    our rado's somehow fixing said intermittent faults however I do love! lol

     

    typical that you had no noise on the last journey. i have always found my VR has a funny habit of something stopping working for a while & then just as i get round to having a look why it bloody works again!

     

    latest example being - heated seat drivers side in the VR - ever since i have had it it has always had times when the relay would jib out & buzz like crazy. a few weeks ago i started hunting for a relay or a fix. discussed on this forum in a thread & wouldn't you know ever since the buzzing hasn't happened again. toasty bum in cold weather i will not moan at but who knows why it has started behaving

     

    did you manage to find anything over the weekend m8?

    I haven't had a chance yet. The in laws were round for mothers day so that meant tidy everything up. Also starting a new job next Monday so having to sort all that out as well. I need a 48 hour day and I still wouldn't have enough time. I may have found away of replicating it by pulling away on steap slopes.


  6. you gotta love this new fandangled technology eh

     

    quite who's idea it was to put the send button so close to they keyboard I have no clue lol

     

    if as you say the noise goes when coasting could it be engine mount maybe

     

    I have heard someone mention whilst stationary get a friend to press the accelerator whilst you watch the engine under the hood for any movement

     

    I think in the VR for example if the front engine mount is gone you can see the inlet mani lifting & lowering - which could possibly make a knock with each up & down

     

    I will give that a go first as quite a simple test. I belive the previous owner had the front mount changed to solid one by jmr before I bought her. but worth having a look anyway. The problem i have is that it only makes noise on the move so very difficult to pinpoint problem when sitting on a ramp and it only happens every now and then. Took her out today and no noise what so ever. Strange.


  7. You may need some arch work doing but you wont know until you offer them up. Mine is on 17s and I've set it up to have a 2 1/2 finger gap to avoid rubbing but I'm guessing your set up is fixed. What I would do is jack the rear up on the rear beam and test fit with something behind the wheel to give the 20mm gap and as the car is jacked up by the rear beam the ride height should be close to how it will sit on the road. Also you will possibly need to check the centre bore size and factor that in when ordering the adapters.

×
×
  • Create New...