coolrado

I replaced the solid brass bearings in mine with radio controlled car ball race bearings, I just used some polymorph to make a new housing for the bearings, the fan motor is now silent and carries on spinning for ages when you turn it off, hotpoint washing machine motor brushes also fit with a little bit of fettling.

Try tightening up the two pinch bolts at the top and bottom of the steering column, (number 17 and 19 in the above picture) It's quite common for them to work loose over time and can cause odd knocking or slack in the steering. I was told mine needed a new rack by a VW mechanic when it had its MOT, which i knew was a load of Bo11ocks as i have the reciept from the previous owner for a new steering rack at 60k miles, it was just the loose pinch bolts, had the same on the caddy van and the same on my mates MK2.

are you talking about the bit at the top left hand side of the picture above?

if you havent already, remove all of the pressed metal nuts from the inside of the boot lid, dont be surprised if some of them snap off though. then as mentioned use a hairdrier or carefully use a heatgun to gradually heat the bottom edge to soften the adhesive while gently pulling the top edge outward. if you dont seem to be getting anywhere with the heat or you are worried about melting it, get yourself one of those cheapo retractable knives and extend the blade fully, then pull the top out just enough to get the knife behind it, and slice away at the double sided foam that holds it on.

my guess would be water in the closed throttle switch, give it a squirt of WD40 and it should be fine, I take mine down to the tesco jet wash and do my engine bay every couple of months and had the same problem, it's fine once it's dried out or had a squirt of WD40.

It was cylinder 1 on mine that was dead and i have seen a few PG blocks with scoring to bore 1, my number 1 piston had litterally fallen apart, although the rings where still intact, they where the only things holding the piston together. when you remove the oil filler cap with the engine running is there a lot of pressure or pulsing pressure? it should be no more than a gentle fluttering sort of pressure. have you tried pouring a small amount of oil into the cylinder and then try the compression test again? if the compression increases with the oil it's usually a good sign that the rings are fubar, if not it usually points to valves.

:wink: sell them to a robin reliant/trike owner.

:shock: :clap: :notworthy: just out of interest what and where is the show? :lol:

i tried but i just keep imagining that episode of the simpsons when bart works as a doorman in a burlesque house :lol: :lol:

Really sorry to see this, I think everyone here knows how much you love your corrado's, hope you get it sorted one way or another. :pale: but.... :worthless: :norty: :lol:

Even if the central locking is not working the key should still unlock it, (unless the key doesn't match the boot lock) could you turn the key at all? as the boot lock rarely gets used they do sometimes seize up, a quick spray of WD40 and a few jiggles of the key usually works.

This is quite common with the air cooled scene on the camper front axles, they drill the hole in the end of the arm out and then fit a tapered sleeve and flip the track rods over, not sure if the tapers are the same size as the camper ones.

yeah mine did that at first, but it was caused by the cable being kinked slightly where it entered the cable clip, I just used another nut to space the clip out a little so it lined up with the cable, also make sure there are no bends in the cable and run some light oil down the cable guide tube, it makes it much smoother to release, i think the main reason the crappy clips break is the cable getting stiff and putting too much strain on the clip.

Yep I did exactly the same last year, much more reliable than that crappy little spring clip.

yep definately get a genuine VW one, the febi and other patern ones are utter poo! they warp and leak after a couple of weeks. The G60 side flange is just a straight through flange with no sensors so it only takes 5 minutes to change, it might also be worth getting a front flange as they tend to fail at around the same time and it will save having to drain the coolant twice.

^^^that probably works very well on paper :wink:

Doh!!! :lol: I have an intact one at home, but i'm not sure what side it is, will have a look when I get home.

I'm willing to bet thats the first time that sentance has ever been used on here :lol: Most of the members on here are UK based so it may be a while before you find a US spec lens, are they still available in the dealers over there? as the uk lenses where quite cheap when they where still available here.

there are a couple of different ones fitted to the golf mk2, a flimsy shiney black plastic one and the thicker, matt finish hard plastic one My mate had both types on two golf's the same age, so i'm not sure why they are different, neither of the golf ones seem to cover the wiper motor though.

As far as I know it's usually the tank sucking in air, if it was blowing out and the fuel level was high or the car was on an angle the fuel would be forced out of the filler. once saw this happen when someone I know tried to blow the dent out of their fuel tank with an air line, which worked really well, but he decided taking the fuel cap off was the best way to relieve the pressure, which caused a fountain of petrol to shoot out of the filler :lol: My old MR2 used to create a vacuum and hiss when you took the cap off but it was meant to due to the design of the breather but my corrado or any of my mates various golf's, polo's ect have never done it. make sure there is no blockage to the breather on the tank as they sometimes get blocked up with mud and crap. Just out of interest you haven't removed the carbon cannister have you?

Just got my membership pack through the post, :thumbleft: The sprinter looks very well put together, and the sticker will be going in the back of the car later, I should have joined ages ago to be honest.

If you do remove the speedo surround, be very careful with the two lower screw covers, the clips on them are fragile, and the covers tend to go flying off never to be seen again, Oh and one of them is obsolete and very hard to get hold of.

I take it as you are in the US by passenger side you mean the right side of the car? If so it sounds like you right rear engine mount has gone, it's best to have the car up on axle stands or ramps as you need to get to a couple of awkward bolts from underneath, you will also need to lift the engine up a bit to remove the mount and replace it, you can either use an engine lift, or a trolley jack with a block of wood across it to protect the sump but make sure you dont jack it up too far as you could damage the exhaust manifold or crush the sump. It would probably be worth changing both of the engine mounts and the gearbox (transmission) mount, as if one has gone the rest usually follow soon after and worn mounts will put strain on the others, also check the front engine mount bracket that attaches to the top of the front engine mount for signs of cracking, which is quite common on the G60, and if it fully lets go will leave you with a nice charger shaped dent in your bonnet (hood) :lol: Have a look on volkswagen.msk.ru for a manual if you can't get to yours.

I always find it easier to remove the passenger side under dash tray, this usually gives you access to the cables at the back of the headunit. what is the old stereo? they sometimes have a bulky inline filter on the power cable that gets caught up in all the gubbins behind the stereo, you should be able to free it off with the under dash tray removed.

according to vagcat it's LHD only, and it also requires the fitting of a reinforcing bar that goes all the way across the car below the dash, would be good to get a closer look at them though to take measurements to replicate them for RHD