coolrado

there is another option for near instant screen demisting if this doesn't get anywhere. the vauxhall vivaro van has a rapid heater system, its basically a small manifold that you fit in line with the matrix and has 4 glow plugs in it (similar to the diesel engine glow plugs) and it just heats the coolant up a bit quicker, this also has the added benefit of getting your engine up to temp a bit quicker, although it also takes a lot of current to run but once your engine is running and up to temp you can turn it off.

yeah you can remove the rear quater glass without damaging the outer seals, all you need is a retractable blade craft knife and some soapy water, remove all of the interior trim around the quarter glass and then just slice through the adhesive seal from the inside, always keeping the blade parrallel to the glass, the soapy water helps stop the blade from getting stuck in the adhesive as if you try it when its dry it really grips the blade, just take your time and it helps to have someone with you to catch the glass when its loose.

Just in case you dont know what it looks like here is a simple guide to help identify the dizzy. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfdizzy.JPG[/attachment:3suxzipo] This is the famous computer game character Dizzy , this is not the dizzy you are looking for. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfdizzy2.JPG[/attachment:3suxzipo] This is the world famous jazz musician Dizzy Gillespie, and although very talented this is also not the dizzy you are looking for dizzy 3.JPG[/attachment:3suxzipo] I believe This is the dizzy you are looking for. :wink:

It is very good, just make sure you follow the application instructions to the letter and it will work brilliantly. Also wipe some onto the wiper blades as well, it seems to last much longer and is less likely to streak. but dont use cheapo screenwash at the same time, it just removes the rain-x after a short time, either the little bottles of VW screenwash concentrate, the shell own brand concentrate or the rain-x screen wash addative seem to be fine with it though, putting rain-x on the inside also helps to stop fogging, or you can get rain-x anti fog.

yeah thats correct as far as i know, from what i have read in a couple of manuals and heard from a few VW mechanics, the conrod bolts are use once stretch bolts that have to be pressed in and out, they are only meant to be re-used for the purpose of measuring the play with some plastiguage, i have heard of people re-using them but one of those people had a bolt snap which destroyed the engine and the bearings in the other one lasted a few months before they started rattling as the tension on the bearing cap was incorrect, ARP bolts can however be re-used as they are not stretch bolts. this wasn't an issue for me as my engine was completely stripped bare, but if you want to change the bolts you will need to have the head off and pull the pistons and rods out of the bores to change the bolts, there is no way i would tap the bolts out while it's all assembled, they where hard enough to remove when they where out of the engine :wink: . I only mentioned doing the main crank bearings because for the price of new bearings its worth doing for peace of mind but only if you have the engine out and in bits. 70 odd k does seem a little low for them to be worn out, unless its been thrashed or run on crap oil, are you absolutely sure its the big end bearings that are causing the rattle? If it does turn out to definately be the big ends, depending on how bad it is i would just live with it until you decide to do a complete rebuild, as if you have the head off to get the pistons and rods out you might as well do the piston rings and bores while your at it then if you have gone that far you might as well do stem seals, valve seats, bearings ect.......... My big end bearings where rattling for about 20k miles with no problems apart from the annoying mid rev rattle, and when the Crank was measured for wear there wasn't any so its not really an immediate threat, mine started to rattle at about 100k.

have a look on volkswagen.msk.ru for all of the torque specs and manuals. the conrod bolts are pressed in as standard and are stretch bolts so will have to be replaced when you change the bearings anyway, the main bearings dont seem to show much wear but if you are removing the crank the main bearing shell bolts can be re-used but the flywheel mounting bolts are stretch bolts and also need to be changed. the replacement bearings are now made from a slightly harder material as the originals where a bit too soft appearently.

you called? :lol: it is very cool though, black ones allways look mean.

yeah the gear linkage is normally removed from underneath, which usually means removing the exhaust and heatshielding to get at it, or the other option is to cut a small chunk out of that lip or bend it down flat, and pull the pin out.

simple to get rid of, once the attachment is uploaded click the place inline button.

It looks like a dildo with wheels :lol: :camp:

I'm not a mechanic :wink: Just be cheeky and ask for one, the worst they can do is refuse. The pump that was on it was a 6 month old genuine VW pump, for some reason the whole bearing carrier assembly in the waterpump had decided to slide out of the casing, causing the shaft and impeller to move across and jam the water pump pulley against the power steering pulley and destroy my toothed belt and power steering belt, my mate also had a seal failure on a two week old vw pump on his mk1 cabby, so i dont really trust them any more than a pattern part, (as long as its not a Eurocrapparts one) the new one seems very well made and uses SKF seals so cant be that bad, and like i said i needed it to get me home on a sunday and halfords was the only place open with one on the shelf. As for the brakes they are only on my van so i dont really care how crap they are, although i have used them on the corrado in the past, i just found them a bit dusty but couldnt fault the braking power, and unlike the two sets of EBC greenstuff pads i have had, they didn't fall apart under heavy braking, and the disks they sell are mostly made by a brake manufacturer that is local to me called Brake Engineering, who also make custom disks for motorsport and even replacement disks for ferrari's, I know as i wired up the robotic arm in the factory that moves them between the CNC milling and balancing machines :lol: Dont get me wrong, halfords do sell a lot of utter crap, the majority of the staff appear to be part of some care in the comunity scheme, and some of the prices are rediculous. But, the PRO tools are excellent, and they are convinient if you need something out of normal hours, or on a sunday when most dealers or motor factors are shut, and if you know someone who works there you can get some cracking deals on audio equipment, like my pioneer Avic 9 II DVD navigation system that i got for £150 quid reduced from £700 :lol:

Fiat Tipo hangers, they have a nylon strap around the outside to stop them stretching just like the cable tie idea^^^^^ , also make sure that when the exhaust is fitted the bottom of the rubbers point toward the front of the car a bit, as when the exhaust gets hot it expands and moves back a bit, if you fit them completely straight they will be stretched backwards when the exhaust heats up and will put extra stress on the rubbers, hangers and manifold.

yeah the effect may be minimal on a N/A car, but anything that drops intake temps has got to help a bit, just depends if you are that worried about 1or 2 bhp, i wouldnt bother though.

would just be for the manifold, it just stops most of the heat being conducted from the head to the manifold so should lower the intake temps a bit, i know g-werks do them for the G60 but not sure where you would get one for a VR, although i have heard of people using them so they must be available.

Swap the red and yellow wires over on the back of the headunit, most stereo's have bullet connectors on the red and yellow for this purpose, VW do it differently for some reason.

add a phenolic (or whatever they are called) insulator gasket and it should improve even more, less conducted heat, and better heat reflection because of the chrome.

If the green seal fails it would only cause oil to leak out around the flange (i love that word) and down the side of the block, if oil is building up inside the dizzy it sounds like an internal seal has failed, not sure if those dizzy's are serviceable or not but as has been mentioned they are still readily available.

You would surprised how much you get off them with the halfords trade card, i bought a set of brake pads for the van the other day and they where £24.99 normally but only £12.50 with the trade card, headlight bulbs went from about £12.99 a pair to £3.49, oh and i recently got a water pump there on a sunday as i needed it in an emergency, and it went from £36 to £17 quid :lol:

:wink: P5180125.JPG[/attachment:yc5yaq7y] And i swear the hookers where already dead when i found them :pale:

Very 8) How many cows worth in the interior?

just remove the two vertical bolts and the 3 on the other side of the power steering pump and then move the whole lot out of the way, and replace the thermo housing with a genuine one, the pattern part ones always warp and leak.

If it's really that hard to get the inner bearing seat off, chances are it probably friction welded itself to the stub axle when the bearing collapsed and locked up. they should not be a tight fit on the stub axle as once the hub nut has been removed, the hub should lift away easily with the complete bearing (including the inner seat). i would just grind some clearance slots away so you can get at the stub axle bolts, and replace the stub axle with a new one, then throw the old one through the garages window :lol:

I have had a few odd ones, a couple of weeks ago while driving to work in the caddy van the wipers decided to completely ignore the stalk and randomly turn themselves on and off, and every now and then would squirt a bit of screen wash and then stop, the really wierd thing about it is I used the corrado later that night and as soon as i started it the squirters came on for about 5 seconds, the wipers started at full speed and the rear wiper now turns itself on and off randomly. :cuckoo: The last headlight loom i had, used crappy relays that would short out when they got a bit damp, turning the headlights on and setting off the alarm at night while it was parked up, I thought the car was being nicked a few times :shock: The charger grenaded while the engine was just ticking over while i was checking the tire pressure which was hillarious :wink: I managed to do a 180 spin on a single track road just wide enough to get the car down without damaging anything, I pressed the brakes and quickly realised I had forgotten to adjust the bias valve after fitting the coilovers (serious brown trouser moment) The sunroof mech decided to fail in the open possition in the middle of a thunderstorm (had to pull into a petrol station and wait uner the canopy) but still ended up with a soggy interior. Once had a wierd vibration when i turned the heaters on and discovered a jelly baby stuck in the fan???? turned out to have been dropped in there by the 7 year old son of a friend of my parents while i was working on the car, the little :censored:

have voted 4 times so far from various computers :lol:

there are a few places that are worth checking, the fuel filter which has a short section of rubber hose on either end, its also worth changing the filter while your down there. the small section of rubber hose from the sender on top of the tank to the plastic main fuel line. the sections of rubber hose that connect between the main fuel lines that run down the car and the engine. the rest of the hoses are different depending on what engine you have. all of the rubber fuel hoses perish and split around the ends, it may not be obvious at first glance but if you remove the hose clip, pull the pipe off (fuel will probably go everywhere) and then squeeze the end of the pipe between your fingers, it will become quite obvious if the pipe is past it as it will show cracks all the way around, your best bet would be to replace the rubber hose with some new stuff, but you can usually get a few more thousand miles out of it by cutting a bit off the end. With the age of all corrado's, all of the rubber fuel lines should have been changed by now as most will be way past it regardless of milage or how well serviced it's been.