coolrado

High modulus just means high elasticity, so it flexes more before splitting, most good quality silicone sealants will do the job. Some people talk about certain silicones giving off acidic gasses that can attack the tyre rubber, but once the silicone is set it stops giving off any gasses so should be absolutely fine.

most gasket sealers like quick gasket or instant gasket are just high temperature silicone, so should be ok, make sure you dont use a non setting gasket like hermetite or a hard setting sealant or they wont stay inflated for very long :lol: make sure the sealing surface is spotless, use some thinners or paint prep or the silicone wont stick very well, then when the wheels are spinning any loose bits will be flung outwards and break the seal. I used tigerseal Polyurethane adhesive sealant for mine as it's a hell of a lot stronger than silicone, which means i can remove the bolts to replace or clean them without having to re-seal the wheels, it also sets faster than silicone but it does make it a bit more difficult to take the rims off if you need to.

normally I would say stock, but I think the badgeless grill and eyebrow works better on yours, maybe with the addition of a G60 badge, it seems to tie the front end together a bit better, the stock one looks a bit out of place with a smoothed bumper.

I have one of the ones that was originally an amplified FM shark fin, they are are ok-ish, but nowhere near as good as the signal from a working OEM aerial, I never intended to use mine for that though, i ripped out all of the internals and fitted the gps antenna from the the pioneer sat nav in there instead. It wasn't really for looks either, I bought it so I didnt have to remove the aerial every time I put the cover on the car when i worked away, It stops thieving pikey scum from nicking the original one whenever It's parked, and it doesn't get in the way of the roof box (dead hooker transportation device). And to be honest i quite like it now, but i was thinking of doing it the same colour as the car.

Good to hear it's running a bit better, but do yourself a favour and get rid of the multi electrode plugs, they are a waste of time, instead of getting one big consistant fat spark you sometimes get 2 or 3 weaker sparks, they also seem to build up deposits quicker, they made my car run like poo and reduced my fuel efficiency by about 5mpg, I was surprised they made so much difference and i though i had knocked a connector loose when i had changed the plugs but after checking everything i swapped the plugs back to the old ones and it was fine, get yourself some decent platinum or iridium tipped plugs, you can get them pretty cheap from the likes of sparkplugs.co.uk or other places online.

It's not an electrical fault that causes this, its just a dry or gunked up starter release mechanism, when the key is turned it triggers the starter solenoid, the starter solenoid pushes the gear on the starter motor outwards and at the same time closes a larger electrical contact which supplies power to the starter motor to spin it, when the sprung mechanism that pushes the gear outwards becomes dry or the grease just gets old and sticky the mechanism becomes slow to return to its rest possition, this and sometimes a worn out end bush causes the groan noise that you get imidiately after the engine starts as the gear on the starter is being spun by the flywheel, as has already been mentioned, it's best to remove the starter, dismantle it, clean all the old sticky grease out and re-lube it with some new grease (not too thick or sticky as it will cause the same problem), It's usually worth replacing the bush at the end of the starter shaft as well as they tend to ovalise a bit and they are a cheap part. if it's been doing it for this long it will just be dry or gunked up. when the starter solenoid is knackered or has welded itself shut the motor will keep spinning itself until it or the solenoid burns out, it will usually only do this a few times before it welds itself permanantly shut and burns itself out. Leaving it until the point where the mechanism is so dry or gunked up that it wont return at all can also cause it to burn out though. I have probably refurbished about 15 of these style starters from various cars and it's a pretty simple job.

what make are they? IN-PRO angel eyes and the sonus or whatever they where called are both switchable between LHD and RHD as far as i know.

which ones did you get? as different kits seem to vary quite a lot.

Have you looked on volkswagen.msk.ru for the wiring diagrams, they are probably as detailed as you will be able to get.

All the AA do is put the hand brake on and put straps over each wheel, although new cars are also strapped down by the towing eyes to stop them bouncing up and down and hitting the deck of the upper row of cars on the transporter. I would strap around the wheels or wishbones, as if you use the tow eyes the car has a tendency dip a little over bumps and can cause the straps to become loose. Make sure you dont strap over the brake lines. Always use more straps or ropes than you need though, better to be safe than sorry

solenoids would be ok if it has motorcycle style sequential shift, (just click up and down) but no good for a normal gearbox as it would require 3 positions for the longitudinal (front to back) shift and 5 positions for the lateral (side to side) shift, solenoids are just 2 possitions On and Off. What you would need would either be a pnumatic/hydraulic ram system which would also require a compressor, pipework pressure tank ect..... or an electronic linear actuator system, when i worked for a control panel system company we did look into this for a disabled customer who wanted to convert his classic jag to button shift after his left arm was severed in a sailing accident but he ended up getting an off the shelf system from the states. We worked out at the time it would cost about £850 to do a basic system for a 5 or 6 speed and reverse shifter but that was about 8 years ago.

still sounds like your alignment is out, if its scrabbling side to side like you say it sounds like the wheels are pointing in different directions, this would also cause the dead spot in the steering you mentioned and the tendency to lurch when you steer more. I have driven a few cars that felt like that after being taken to dodgy quick fit type garages, but where fine after a proper 4 wheel alignment, at the very least a garage should be able to identify whats causing the poor handling even if they cant correct it. The corrado certainly shouldnt feel as you describe, there is a reason it's handling was so highly praised by the press, even extremely low ones should feel planted and stable so something has to be wrong.

Judging by the vid he is on the original 15" speedies.

Have the garage actually set up the camber and tracking? does it feel like the car is on tip toes all the time, sort of twitchy?

the carpet will be cut differently at the front for the pedals,foot rests and throttle stop so you would end up with a heel pad on the wrong side and holes where the foot rests, pedals and throttle stop would normally be, you would also have to modify the other side to fit around your pedals ect as the passenger side carpet is a bit longer. I would just sell the carpet on to someone with a left hooker.

most spark plug sockets have an external hex drive at the top, so all you should need is a spark plug socket, a spanner to fit it, and a long allen key to poke down through the hole that you would normally use for the ratchet, halfords do a long allen key with a chunky handle which is ideal for the job.

The split corrugated plastic conduit should be available from any electrical wholesalers like edmunsons, ect. the problem is it's usually sold in at least 25 meter rolls. Its the same stuff that protects the power steering hose at the bottom of the front crossmember on all corrado's. Or find a SEAT ibiza around 2003 reg in a scrappy and the whole wiring loom is covered in the stuff, does a much better job of protecting the wires than the cloth tape and stops the wires from going brittle.

But that would mean actually looking through Max Power to find the voucher :shock: :pale: I,m not sure it would be worth the shame to save 20%.

Might be something here that would fit screwfix stainless Although you may need some small washers for the top ones as the screw heads are a bit smaller than the ones that are on there. stainless washers

Bosch silver S4, eurocarparts £56, got one last week.

Running a new seperate power feed and ground to my headunit stopped the interference on mine, just used a cheap amplifier wiring kit. I tried routing the cables seperately, noise surpressor, checked all the grounds ect... which usually works but a new power feed was the only thing that worked fo me. Also check your RCA's for damage, or try another another cable if you can.

Yeah sorry i meant the lever on the caliper.

yeah they can be blown out with an airline if you are careful, did you make sure you moved the handbrake lever all the way to its limit and all the way back each time? the piston sits over a spiral shaped bar which will allow it to move out in a straight line but will only return by turning it as its pushed back.

you can remove the piston by cranking the handbrake lever, the piston moves out on a ratchet system, the tool is just for winding them back in.

Mine was broken off at the connector, so i just popped the pins out of the connector soldered the wires back on to the pins, clipped them back in and re sealed the connector with some pu sealant. if you want to repair shielded wire just make sure you cut the centre core a bit shorter, solder it together then heat shrink or tape over it, (adhesive lined heat shrink is better as its water tight) then as the shielding should be longer you should be able to pull it over the top of the heat shrink or tape and solder it together in a few places, making sure there are no gaps around the circumference then heatshrink or tape over that as well.