coolrado

This one germany trip clicky

had a good look around the one at e38, although I had walked past it a couple of times as it didn't really stand out especially in white, there where just so many other nicer looking cars there old and new. Its not as bad as it looks from the press pictures and I do really like the interior and the back seats look very nice, I just really think darker colours suit it more.

My G60 has had a Bosch silver on it for the last 10 years and i even fitted it on the works diesel van for a few months and it started it fine, after returning from saudi where I had been working for 2 weeks the car really struggled to start so I didn't try it again as i didnt want to kill the battery, anyway after leaving it on charge overnight I tried it again in the morning and it was still really struggling so it looks like its finally given up, I cracked the top of it off and the plates are all warped and the acid is all mucky and black, still not bad for a 10 year old battery. So I started pricing up a replacement: Halfords own battery (which i have had in the past and didn't last very long and had low acid level when i got it) was £86 :shock: Motormania had a varta battery and wanted £105 :shock: :shock: I then tried Eurocarparts and they had the standard bosch 075 for £48, not really wanting to stretch to the price of a bosch silver I decided to get a standard one, but when he brought out the battery it was actually a new bosch silver S4 :cheers: the car now turns over much faster than it ever has. Not sure if this was a mistake on thier part, has anyone else got a battery from ECP recently?

But why not? Is there something just fundamentally wrong with the car which people only realise after they've bought it?!!! maybe the owners get fed up with constantly being asked "is that jays car" or being criticised for changing it in any way, or maybe its because the sort of people who would buy it get bored quickly, they just want a pre modified car without putting all the hard work and money into it, and think they will get the same satisfaction and respect as the person who did all the hard work but soon realise thats not the case, or just get bored of it and buy the next pre done car.

AQUA G60 have you thought about putting together some service packs?, which could include plugs, a tub of oil, air filter oil filter ect... i'm sure people wouldnt mind you making a few quid for yourself and it would be easier and cheaper than getting them from a dealer.

Someone did tell me who made the corrado mirrors, I'm sure it was someone like Corello, the people who who make FIAT :pukeright: headlights. They certainly werent made by VW though as most of them still work even after 20 years :lol:

are the aftermarket wheels you have a taper seat or radius seat? I have a set of Mc guard bolts with a taper seat and slightly longer threads from My Azev A's, if they are of any use, I have gone back to standard radius seats for the BBS's so i dont need them.

I had been holding off joining the CCGB for a while, as it seemed without a fully functioning site the future of the club seemed a bit uncertain. But now the site is up and running and looking pretty impressive too, I have just joined and look forward to helping out whenever possible.

heres mine, before i fitted the audioscape pods.

Is the pump operating when you lock and unlock the car? as it's a pnumatic system it works on pressure or vacuum to operate the locks, if one of the tubes to any of the locks (remember there is one on the fuel flap too) is loose it is possible that when blowing it is forcing the tube out of the socket and just wasting the pressure, but on vacuum the suction pulls the pipe into the connector and seals enough to operate the locks, (had this on a mk3 golf) usually the pump will run for longer than normal if there is a leak in the system.

also check that there isnt anything in the cigar lighter socket, I know of someone who spent nearly £300 trying to sort an electrical fault on a merc and it turned out to be a 2 pence piece that his 4 year old son had shoved in the cigar lighter socket :lol:

you said you aligned it by using the crank pulley mark and them moving it a few teeth around on the flywheel, are you sure you moved it the right way?

which metro? :scratch:

I have a few Mk1 MR2 bits lying aroung if you need them, pair of rear lights, exhaust manifold, rear quarter glass, rear window, rear visor, and a spoiler somewhere.

And the blades have a lower profile too 8)

again for the scroll that would involve inert atmosphere welding, and then machining the groove back into the edge of the scroll, its not like anything else could be used to patch it up as anything else other than magnisium alloy would effect the balance of the scroll and shake itself to bits. the edges of the vanes in the outer casing would probably ok though, just find someone who can weld ally to build up the missing area and most decent machine shops should be able to re machine a small section of the groove, but again it comes down to cost and whether you trust the rest of the charger that has had a chunk of metal sucked through it. And just to confirm the case is not magnisium alloy (i put a chunk of my grenaded charger on the gas cooker last night and it did nothing) the displacer on the other hand :shock: I am now partially blind :lol:

Yep loads of people on here run Lupo or TT arms and blades, it's a very popular conversion, most of the cars you see at shows have them on. You can try moddifying your arms though, Take your arms off and look at the hinged area, you will notice that when the arms are in the flat possition that the steel bit rests against a flat section of the alluminium section next to the hinge, this is what stops the arm putting enough pressure on the screen, corrado arms where borrowed from the passat parts bin while nobody was looking :wink: so the arms work fine on the passat as the screen is more upright but as the screen on the corrado is more swept back the arms bottom out before putting any pressure on the screen. try grinding a bit of the alluminium away so the arm moves down further and it should be ok. I tried this before getting the Lupo arms and blades and it worked well but I prefer the look of the aero blades, they last longer and work better at high speed.

thats the sort of thing you would expect to see Jordan driving, like when she told clarkson she was looking at buying an aston and she got all excited when he told her they would colour match it to her nails if she wanted :pukeright: I cant believe its an original porsche colour though, what where they thinking :cuckoo: Only a few cars can be painted pink and still look cool but that isnt one of them.

assuming the outer case is just standard aluminium it would involve building up the wear face with a tig welder then using an end mill to re-machine the face, although finding someone who could or would be willing to would be a bit of a challenge, actually getting a welder between the vanes and then accurately machineing the face is a serious amount of work, i'm sure it's possible but whether it's financially viable is a different matter.

The scroll is a very light weight magnesium alloy, and although it is possible for specialist welders to weld it (has to be done in an inert atmosphere iirc) this is usually a very expensive process, I am also not sure i would trust a repaired displacer unless it was tested for stress fractures either with a revealing fluid or X-ray, which is also quite expensive to have done.

you laugh, but those things are quite useful! :lol: And almost everyone will have one, usually to be found in that kitchen draw full of other random crap like those pointless little chrismas cracker padlocks, magnifying glass, plastic puzzles ect.....

Just in case you dont have the manual, you can download it here If you dont have RCA's and you are using the speaker (line level) connections you dont need a remote wire as the basslink will wake up as soon as it gets an input signal, if you are using RCA's you will need either a remote connection or just jumper the +12v across to the remote terminal for testing.

best thing i found to get the screw out easily was a screw driver from a marks and spencer christmas cracker :lol:

are you sure the constant droning isn't the exhaust rubbing either on the heatshields or the rear beam? Mine did drone a bit when the rear beam bushes where totally shot as well.

its the bonnet release cable. A ticking timebomb just waiting to snap leaving you with a stuck closed bonnet just when you least need it :wink: