coolrado

one thing worth checking when you remove the plastic flange is any pitting where the o-ring used to sit against the head, i had a few small pits where coolant had been leaking past the knackered seal for a long time and had erroded the head slightly, i just cleaned out the pitted bits and skimmed some automotive silicone gasket sealent into them and let it dry before i reasembled it, if you dont fill these pits it they may just get worse

its only any good for tiny amounts of rust and only then if the rusted area is totally dry, rust absorbs a lot of moisture and will just get worse if kurust is put on top of it. the only proper way to permanently get rid of rust is to cut it or grind it back to bare metal and then prime and paint it.

i have legal cover on my insurance and when i got rear ended it was angel assistance who sorted the hire car out but a solicitor who sorted out the rest of the claim. when you get a hire car ask for a golf though as they will probably give you a new megane and they are bloody horrible things to drive, afterwards they said i could have had a golf or focus if i had asked :mad:

we built the control system for a machine that squirted the fragrence onto the disks you get inside those crappy round plastic air freshners that you usually see stuck on the side of bog systerns, that used a solonoid syringe pump that could fire off at a stupidly fast rate and could be controlled very precisely, not too sure who made it though but it wasnt very expensive if i remember, i will ask around tonight if i get chance. i have had a look at those pumpe duse injectors but i cant work out if the pump part is solonoid driven or whether its driven off a cam? if it is solonoid driven it would probably be ideal for you as it does not require a high pressure rail.

bad luck mate where there any double white lines where he overtook ? how did R.O.V.E.R get past the forum swear filter??

i worked as a control panel builder for 6 years when i left school and plc's are part of the reason i left as it got a bit boring having to cut, crimp, tag and terminate several thousand individual wires for every control suite :lol: are there any injectors that actually act as a pump when they fire? something like the pumpe duse injectors from the newer vw diesels but i think they require mechanical force to pressurise the fuel then just open the valve electronically to control the output. http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/pcDies6.asp?c=2&d=1

would using multiple shorter bursts have the same effect as holding the injector open for a long time without the problem of overheating?

halfords in wrexham are selling off all there u-pol plastic primer for £2 per can, not sure if other branches are selling it off cheap though. they are easy enough to get a perfect finnish on if you take your time, but it is worth taking them apart properly to get at the bits that cant be seen until you pull the handle, you will need to drill the pin out that holds the two bits together. its also worth leaving them to dry for about a week as the paint can wrinkle if you pull on the handle too soon.

i would have thought the duty cycle on a car would be much shorter than that so would not give it chance to heat up at all especially with fuel being passed through it which would also keep it quite cool, would it be possible to fit a heatsink to the injector? could you contact bosch and find out from them the maximum safe duty cycle?

i have actually got one but i let a friend borrow it and he is in eurodisney at the moment :roll: so they are all the same as an 8v gti ? i know a site which has them all listed for a golf so i will check that cheers

hmm i tried battering the crap out of it with a rubber mallet and it didnt want to shift at all so i borrowed a pulley puller from a neighbour which did the trick but it was surprisingly well stuck on. the cambelt didnt look too healthy when i got it off, it was very shiney and covered in fine cracks and according to the service history it should have another 20k left in it :shock: any ideas what torque settings i will need for the bottom pulley bolts, the water pump pulley bolts, the tensioner, and the camshaft caps? i seem to remember 15lbft for the camshaft caps but i cant remember the tightening sequence either :wink:

it was done on a ford pube (probe) where the plugs are quite deep down, he just used an extension shaft on the reverse tap, you can usually find a multi-point socket that will fit the square drive on the reverse tap.

yeah it looks like all the ceramic is still attatched so the only bit left in should be the thread with the side electrode which should come out quite easilly with a decent reverse tap, then if you are worried about any tiny fragments in the cylinder connect a hoover to a small piece of pipe and jiggle it round through the plug hole. a friend of my dads used a vetinary endoscope (spelling?) to inspect the bores on his after a similar thing happened

remove and clean the earth to the clocks and also remove the plug in the back of the clocks and clean the contacts on the back of the clocks and the plug as well. do you sometimes see the rev counter and speedo dip at random while your driving?

do the new replacement heater matrix's still need the extra bypass valves that where fitted in the engine bay?

yeah but you have a few replacements dont you? :lol:

i think they still have an isv at d-reg my mates old golf gti was on a d-plate and he just cleaned his isv and it was fine for another couple of years he just left it in a jar of carb cleaner for a while.

cheers so is it just a face to face mounting then? i didnt know if i needed a puller or something ah well i will just have to get the scousers screwdriver out :lol:

just got a new cambelt, tensioner and tappets which i need to get done before i drive down to ed38 on friday. i have removed the 4 allen bolts that hold the outer two pulleys onto the crank but they dont seem to want to come off in a hurry, how the heck does it come off? or am i not swearing at it enough? :lol:

when my caddy got smashed into on the m6 the copper said the police wont be pressing charges but if i wanted to make a comlaint the woman who hit me would have been sent on a driver re-habilitation course and if she refused it would go to court. seems like there is something very odd going on in your case, would it be worth taking private legal action against her?

its the air con system from a seat leon same as the vw climatronic system with a bigger display

something like this? i used a soldering iron with a fine tip for the larger sections and a dremmel for the finer stuff i had to dremmel a little bit out at each side to accomodate the bezel for the bottom headunit the heater controls are being replaced with the seat climatronic controller at the moment so it will look a bit different at e38

hmm led brake light? i did start making one in the rear vw roundel on mine that looks standard and then lights up bright red with the brakes

i was just thinking it was bad enough when my mates 8v golf let go and he bent all 8 valves, and how bad it would be if it was a 16v but then you put the pics of 20valves all bent :shock: ..........i feel very sorry for you mate. any other damage you can see? do you think it will ok in time for e38?

a suzuki whizzkid (sc100) only ever seen one, and thats in a mates dads garage wierd little car