coolrado

to make use of the second hole in the charger when the boost return kit is fitted, would probably make a lot more noise but would be sucking up hot air which sort of defetes the object of having the heat shield around the other filter?? :?

if you have the back completely out try rotating it by 90 degrees and it should come out. as far as i know nobody makes "cheapy" handles for them so it should be a normal one

i recently had a problem where the brakes where juddering when braking from high speed but wasnt really noticeable at lower speeds, it turned out to be a badly cracked disk

try looking at page 21 of this pdf http://volkswagen.msk.ru/vw_doc/vw_corrado_90.zip

is it the silver corrugated pipe that has a split in it? if it is it looks like standard heatproof ducting which should be availiable at any decent motor factors and should be pretty cheap, or you could go for some harder wearing ducting from somewhere like demon tweeks

looks very clean now chuck a g60 in it you know it makes sense :-P

t-cut isnt a last resort either, its just crap :lol: if you have to cut the paint back use g3

and whats the bleeding/re-filling procedure?

am i the only one who read the title of this thread and expected something to do with corradowales's fashion choices? i have just had t1r's fitted at demon tweeks and was told by a couple of the lads there that the shoulder wear has improved a lot over the t1s's as i had t1s's before and the shoulder wear was quite bad from taking roundabouts too quickly and for £70 for a pair fitted they are a bargain

i really dont know why t-cut is so popular when there are far better products availiable for the same price which dont contain amonia, i actually tested the fading affect on my old spare boot i polished two patches one with t-cut that my dad bought and the other with g3 and the t-cut patch was pink again within a week and that was after thouroughly washing both patches the g3 patch had faded a little but nowhere near as much, my dad then took the t-cut back to halfords for a refund :lol:

its a fine cutting compound used by a lot of bodyshops to restore the paint finish, i think there are finer compounds available from them too

you can buy various grades of pure carnuba in flake form on e-bay if your any good with your junior chemistry set im sure you could knock up your own polish :lol:

carnuba wax is a natural wax from brazilian palm trees and give a very hard protective finish and good gloss shine. dont make the mistake of going into a bodyshop and asking for a brazilian wax though you will end up with something else entirely :lol:

i tried using t-cut to restore my tornado red corrado and like you say it fades again very quickly, a friend of my fathers who is a chemistry professor and has a couple of classic cars said he would never use t-cut due to the amount of amonia in it and said it will make it look nice for a short time and then actually help to bleach the paint. and the guy at my local body shop said he never uses it and prefers ferecla g3 instead and then a good quality wax polish or carnuba wax polish to seal and protect the paint, but like what has allready been said the only way to sort it out permenently is to get a re-spray i find that a good waxing with a carnuba based polish lasts for about 2 months before it starts to noticeably fade again, i am using a carnuba wax that was given to me by the guy who resprayed the back end of mine after it was shunted by some dosy bint, i think its a bodyline product but i am steadily running out of it.

as are most vw's, odd really as its seems nobody likes them like that.

there is also a chat option at the top of this page, rarely seems to get used though

when i first got my lupo arms and blades one of the blades had been kinked in the bag, and it left a streak across the screen for the first couple of months but after it settled down it was fine and still is. just dont use cheap screenwash with a high alcohol content as they harden the blades and cause judder

i see where your coming from, this car is built for a single pupose (which it is very good at) i was just a bit surprised at how much of it was still original. especially as most of the drag cars you see about are like you say just fibregalss bodies over a space frame.

it is actually surprising how much of the original car still exists, and there is no reason why it couldnt be road legal with a little work (a mate used to run a ford pop called fizzy pop and that was fully road legal and ran in the same class as the corrado i think) its not just a fibreglass shell either its nearly all the original body from what i saw, boot modified slightly :lol: to fit thoses huge tyres in and the engine bay widened a bit it even has the original doors (with working handles) does that mean phat, biggerbigben, or coxylads car's are no longer a corrado ? they have had to replace the rear floor pan changed the interior and modified other bits to use the 4wd system and the different engines

spencer tramm is a member on here and yes it is pretty quick i have seen it run a couple of times.

yep i wouldnt mind a price either and would there be any problem with the air con? also what tensioners would you need as you get rid of the sprung tensioner dont you?

yep have got an oil cooler allready and an sns chip with 68mm pulley and boost return mod, i havn't had it rollered again yet but it was putting out 177bhp on the rollers at stealth before any mods. the stand alone oil feed is good as it supplies the charger with its own pressure regulated supply of oil which can be a different oil to the engine and better suited to the charger, and will also run cool which should help even more, appearently the oil pressure varies wildly with changes in rev's a mate of mine is hopefully sorting an intercooler out for me so that isnt a problem not too bothered about big power gains i just want to try and protect the charger as much as i can to keep my mind at rest in-between charger re-builds

my parents have finally caved in and agreed to get me something for the corrado this year for my birthday (didnt get anything for the last 3 years as when they asked what i want i said something for the car, and they think i spend too much time and money on it ) :lol: well this year they have said they will get me something big for it, :cheers: so i was thinking either a toothed belt conversion or the stand alone oil feed from g-werks they both have advantages, the toothed belt kit eliminates slip, sounds cool(heard the one on henny's jdub on the rolling road 8) ), and relieves tension on the charger bearings and the stand alone oil feed should ensure the charger allways has a good oil feed which after having a blocked feed line leading to knackered bearings and a stripped belt has left me a little paranoid :pale: the problem is i am also thinking of getting air con and im not sure how this would effect the pullies i would need for the toothed belt kit. i dunno what do you lot think?

one of my local scrappies has a few new clios in, including an 05 one. they are all front enders or have been in ditches, i could have a look on wednesday for you, are they colour coded?

i bought a full set of greenstuff pads for mine to try and reduce the dust on the bbs rm's but there was hardly any difference, they are crap until they warm up and then seem to overheat too quickly the brake dust also seems to be brown instead of black (pads look like they are full of copper strands). what dust they do produce seems harder to remove, oh and the first set i got one of the front ones seperated from its backing and fell to bits, so i think i will go back to weekly wheel washes and get some pagid fr's