coolrado

hmm cheers for the info, i think i might just go for it anyway as in the grand scheme of corrado ownership 100 quid is bugger all :lol: plus i like the look of the controls in the leon and its all practically brand new, the engine bay is totally undamaged as a tree fell on the rear of the car, its a leon cupra as well and apart fron the tree shaped dent in the roof and rear quarters looks spotless. hmm interesting idea about the leon dash but i think i prefer the rado dash the way it is i will have another good look at it next week

i should be at deva dubs and might be camping over so should see you there

well i do have a company van with private use so i wouldnt be without transport, and a mate of mine works in a machine shop so has full acsess to plenty of cnc machines and lathes so the brackets shouldnt be a problem, and my centre console has allready been adapted for double din. the odd thing is my water pump allraedy has a pulley with an extra ribbed section that isnt used for anything, would this be for air con? the wiring also shouldnt be a problem for me but i still havnt seen the under dash fan assembly yet. it does look very tight down at the front of the engine, anyone got any photos of a standard setup?

i know of quite a new seat leon in a scrappy and they have said i can have all the air con bits i need for 100 quid. is it possible to fit it to a g60? the aircon pump on the leon sits down at the front of engine below the power steering pump. its the full aircon with the full digital display so should look pretty cool fitted as well, i might buy it anyway and flog it on if i cant use it anyone ever fitted leon air con before or know if its possible? and what exactly would i need off it , i can take some photo's to identify the pump which looks very similar to the pics of standard corrado air con pumps that have been posted on here.

as i got a set of rear calipers from a mk4 golf gti with delivery mileage on them for £30 quid the pair (car had been badly damaged on the transporter), i decided to clean up the front brakes at the same time and replace all of my seals, a friend of mine who works at a machine shop let me use the bead blast cabinet to clean up the front and rear calipers which made them look better than new and left a perfect surface for painting and also used the proper spray gun in his workshop and gave them a nice thick coat of hammerite smooth silver. after a couple of weeks of use the paint has gone rock hard and when i bled the brakes and some brake fluid leaked onto the calipers it didnt even mark the paint after being left on for 10 minutes

where the rear mounts also uprated poly mounts? if not would'nt that cause the front cross member to twist more under hard acceleration? i have some photos to post up later of my front engine-to-mount bracket which i recenly discovered had broken apart and was being held together by a 1 cm spot of weld and i have standard mounts, so thats another thing to check

best thing to do is phone your insurance company and ask them what to do and if you are covered, they will also let you know where to take it and may even book it in for you, thats what they did for me anyway.

i never knew they drove on the wrong side of the road in scotland :lol: :lol:

i think he said they recommended sure 60 for most people which is probably what i will go for but my mates golf is on its arse and has poly's all round so he will probably go for something stiffer. while we where looking at my original mount last weekend to get some measurements i discovered my front engine mount bracket that attatches to the engine had a bloody great crack in it and was being held together by about half an inch of weld so its quite lucky we checked it really, and thats with a standard mount so it wouldnt have lasted long with poly's, i will try and post some pics of it up later as it might be worth others keeping their eye out for the same problem.

a mate of mine who has full access to a workshop full of lathes and cnc machines is going to be making some engine mounts for his mk2 and my g60 using stainless but we are looking into the various grades of polyurethane inserts to use, as there is a local company who can supply pretty much any shape size or grade of poly bush, anybody got any idea what would be the best grade? he might also be making these to sell soon depending on how sucsessfull they are for around £60 per mount so as soon as he has the prototypes finnished i will put some pics up on here.

im sure this was asked the other day and someone posted that they are only £22 from vw

and try and get a set of axle stands or ramps as working under it while its only supported by a trolley jack is a bit risky unless you want to end up looking like sloth from the goonies :lol:

:pukeright: i cant stand people who think they know better than qualified experienced car designers but who have absolutely no styling taste whatsoever, it just looks sooooooooo wrong, so what if its unique, its unique for a reason and thats because nobody wants a car that looks that bad :snipersmile:

think yourself lucky its only an 8 valve, a mate of mine has just scrapped his alfa 155 after the cambelt went, it bent all 16 valves, punched holes in 3 pistons and bent 1 of the conrods, it was 10k past the belt change mileage and we all told him to get it changed but he spent the money on a set of alloys the muppet

seen it a few times now and it looks even more gorgeous in the flesh, the attention to detail is amazing

they are held on by pressed steel nuts that cut thier own thread into the plastic pegs on the back of the number plate panel, the plastic pegs usually snap off when you undo them and leave a little stub behind, i found that by turning the pressed steel nuts around and using an allen key on the recessed side that they gripped on to the little stub very well and i used a bit of tigerseal pu adhesive sealant around the peg holes to hold it tighter and seal the holes

switchable dash illumination to any colour combination i want using ultra bright rgb led's, soon to have a leather mk4 golf handbrake lever to go with the mk4 rear callipers, next weekend custom poly engine mounts and finnish fitting the micro pc in the boot for navigation and 5.1 dolby digital 8)

on an advertising poster i have for the 1992 corrado titled "the 1992 volkswagen corrado keep up with the porsches not with the joneses" it mentions that the corrado has a low drag coefficient of just 0.32 and that the spoiler reduces end lift by as much as 64%. sounds like marketing BS to me a mate of mine and his girlfriend both have mk2 golfs the same age, he has a 16v and she has an 8v, his 16v is lowered a lot and regularly scrapes the chin spoiler and has poly bushes all round and feels very good to drive, when she bought her golf he fitted poly bushes all round but kept the original ride height and it felt quite odd to drive the back end seemed very skippy and unpredictable so he changed the rear bushes to vag ones and it felt perfect so if its lowered go for poly all round if its standard height go for poly front and vag rear or vag all round i think when i lower mine i will fit poly all round but at the moment i will stick with the vag all round.

just have to hope if they put balance weights on the inside of the wheels that they will clear those calipers :wink:

got quoted 1k for a full re-spray with dent repairs, but that was if i removed all trim and window seals. and i know he would do a superb job as the guy who does the spraying suffers from obsesive compulsive disorder so if he doesnt think its right he will keep doing it until it is

this is a proper drag car http://www.ultravwmagazine.com/quantum.html saw it run a couple of times at stratford and its a proper beast and owned by spencer tramm off the forum

erm dont you mean the peado finder general

i can believe that though, have you ever tried getting dried on weetabix off a bowl? im sure i read somewhere nasa where going to start coating the nose cone of the shuttle with dried on weetabix :lol:

what's your budget?

i use QED silver spiral bi-wire cable which is a bit of an overkill but i got it for nothing, its designed for running seperate feeds to the tweeter and mid/bass driver on home hifi but its very handy for running down the car to the left and right sides. i allways thought the claims about different cable giving different sound was complete bullsh*t but a mate of mine who runs a set of final electrostatics off a amp that uses a valve pre amp and a valve cd player when he changed from £2.50 per metre cable to £25 per metre cable the difference was quite noticeable. but the claims about digital interconnects have been proven to be bullsh*t, a lab tested two sets of equipment one connected together with an expensive VAN DEN HUL digital coax and the other with a coat hanger and they both came up with the same results :lol: