coolrado

doh!!! forgot about that clip

i think they are quite cheap from vw dealers (shocking i know) a mate of mine has just got a set for his mk2 gti 16v and they cost less than 10 quid i will check tomorrow

worn gear linkage bushes maybe? i think you can get a kit to re-furb it for quite cheap

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&start=30

im not professing about it im just stating the general opinion of the forum and have heard of people removing the rear poly bushes and changing back to oem as they felt it spoiled the cars feel i could understand using poly on the rear when using uprated suspension or coilovers as it would be pointless fitting stiffer suspension with the softer oem bushes. but for standard suspension i would have thought oem bushes would be more suitable as thats what made the c such a hit with the motoring press

general feeling on here is dont use poly bushes on the rear axle as it spoils the handling something to do with passive rear steer, go for some new oem bushes instead

my memory card has been through the washing machine 4 times and tumble dried for half an hour twice and still works fine :lol: gran turismo saves when you go back to the overall game view screen and takes a few seconds, if your ps2 was turned off or the card removed it could have screwed it up then

your not using the right cars then :lol: the race prepped beemer and alfa 155 corner like they are on rails

quite simply YES (and dont believe the hype about forza, from everything i have heard the only decent thing about it is it has a corrado)

nothing would surprise me from a vw dealer i took my caddy in for a service and told them the clutch pedal was sometimes reluctant to come back up like it was catching on something and they rang me back and said the clutch master cylinder was knackered and would be changed under warranty, but also that the brake pads where almost worn out which would be 198 quid+ vat :shock: i told them to leave the pads as i can get them done elsewhere for around 60 quid got the van back a week later and they hav'nt done anything, the clutch master cylinder has not been changed and none of the dirt in the enginje bay has been disturbed and also the pads have got stacks left on them. thats why i would never take my c to a dealer as the majority of them are rip off merchants who only give a crap when youre buying a new car :mad:

have you driven the car since or is this just what they have told you the problem is ?

could be a new solution to the saggy seat bolster though :lol:

most inventive way i have seen to destroy one was someone emptied a can of expanding foam into a drain hole on a gatso

the display on mine only turns on when it detects a surge and auto powers off when there has been no activity for a few minutes. and it said there was no need for a resistor on the first charge with mine but i dont know about others

thats better, i wish i had a garage to store mine in. henny's alarm system sounds interesting, you can buy shotgun mines from the back of some bike mags that fire a blank shotgun cartridge to scare people when you trigger them but with these little feckers it might be worth using proper shotgun cartridges :mad:

oops just re read and edited my post with mine it was ok to just connect it yes

if it has the display and circuit board on top there is usually a resistor built in to them mine certaily does

hmmm does look a bit fishy to me, but the reason for the dip in revs around 20mph could be to do with the traction control as the light flashes at 20 mph most speedo's have a bit of a dead spot at the start even my bosses porsche does so why does the video start imediately as the revs pick up? would be better if the camera panned down to the speedo from the top of the dash to prove you are stationary

screw them for everything you can, insist that the bumper needs replacing as the brace comes with the bumper, he has no way of knowing what damage was caused underneath the bumper and straightening the old one will leave it weaker and more prone to corrosion

i think the quoted tourqe for the wheel bolts takes the copper grease into account as most workshop manuals advise to use it and quote the correct torque

:lol: :brickwall: i think he means the blue highlighted section of his post is a link to gpc

these ones http://www.mcgard.com/deutschland/engli ... eset1.html i got mine from demon tweeks as they are local to me, i think halfrauds sell them but i might be wrong

i wouldnt bother with anything other than the paddy hopkirk ones, the spline one are too easy to get around and the ones with 3 holes are useless as the key allways breaks

is it possible he owns the company and does't want his premiun to increase ? could he have been using the van out of hours and therefore may not be insured? the guy at the bodyshop i used said he could have probably repaired my old bumper and could have had the side bracket plastic welded back on but i said i wanted to be in the same possition as before the accident with an intact bumper, it worked out quite well for me as there where a few small scuffs and chips that got done at the same time as well as my number plate panel being colour coded

i went from a G reg mk1 mr2 t-bar to the g60 and have never looked back the mr2 was only any good in the summer and was pretty damn slow really, getting the arse end out was fun to start with but the novellty soon wore off, and they eat rear tyres when i was looking at getting the mr2 i originally wanted a mk2 na but after driving a few decided against it as they where just plain boring and felt souless to drive the mk1 was more fun to drive but rusted so quickly it was unbelievable and was very expensive to repair and i also couldnt fit much audio in it, i managed to fit in two 8" subs in though i would definately go for the rado if i where you, great looks, great to drive, future classic allready collectable and rellatively cheap to maintain in comparrison to an mr2 oh and they had to change the name of the mr2 in france to the aw11 as mr2 sounds like sh!t in french :lol: