Roger Blassberg

Halfords do a long reach 14mm socket for a reasonable price. Best wishes RB

Sounds like a modern-day Schlumf Collection - two brothers down in Mulhouse, Alsace, collected every Bugatti they could lay their hands on and kept them secretly. They spent so much money on them that they went bankrupt and the French government took the collection over in lieu of the brothers' tax liability. It's now open to the public as the French National Motor collection, together with lots of other vehicles, in a converted weaving factory in Mulhouse. It's a jaw-dropping experience when you first walk in. Practically next door is the French National Railway Museum, so it is definitely worth staying for a couple of days. Best wishes RB

Tried to order some MAF cleaner from Amazon.com but they won't send it out of US, and Amazon.co.uk doesn't list it. Anyone else know of a supplier accessible to UK? Best wishes RB (incidentally, apologies for hijacking/monopolising this thread....)

Well you live and learn !! Real dedicated MAF cleaner. Thanks Antonio b12. Best wishes RB

I think that earlier ones do, but the later ones use a hot film MAF which is different. There is a part number moulded into the casing so you should be able to make sure that you are using the right one. Incidentally, VAG are knocking them out at about £180 at the moment. Not cheap, but a lot less than ECP. The sickening thing is that a lot of MAFs for other more recent cars are being sold for about £75, but we have to pay the Corrado tax. Have you tried disconnecting it altogether to see if that has any effect? If it does not, it is almost certainly completely knackered. Best wishes RB

Coilpack works in 3 pairs; if one cylinder fails, so does its twin. Please be careful about pulling leads off; don't do it with the engine running as we are dealing with tens of thousands of volts which will give you one hell of a jolt. And the bonnet safety catch is strategically placed to slice your scalp when you jump back. Best wishes RB

The hot wire goes through a self-cleaning process whereby it is heated to a very high temperature for a few seconds, either after the ignition is switched off or immediately after ir is switched on, (I can't remember which). It is a very fine wire indeed, (have a look, you came barely see it with the naked eye) and I can't imagine that you could clean it without damage. As I understand it, in normal operation, the wire is kept at a constant temperature by passing an electric current through it; the current required to do so is a function of the cooling effect of the mass of air passing over it and the electronics work out that mass air flow by measuring the current. The ECU meters the fuel accordingly. Best wishes RB

Yes, mine did that once or twice, and came back to life after a day or so. Oddly enough, the Passat of the same vintage (so probably the same or similar components) has never ever mis-behaved, and I have had it from new. Best wishes RB

Could it be that the atmospheric conditions varied between one session and the other? Hot, dry air will lead to a power loss compared to cold damp air. Clutching at straws really..... I'm sure that Stealth would make the necessary adjustments to the readings. Best wishes RB

Yes, use it all the time with no problems. I'm not surprised you have to top it up if you are using Mobil 1, unless you have a very low mileage engine. Best wishes RB

The camshaft bearings (plain white metal) should be given gentle treatment for a few hours running - say no more than 3500rpm for a couple of hundred miles. But the cams and tappets are hardened steel and should be ok right from the word "go". Best wishes RB

The bolts take an 8mm hex. It's a good idea to give them a good soaking in WD40 or equivalent for several days before you try them (Actually, if you can get it Wurth Rost Off Ice is the best stuff). Best wishes RB

VRTrickster, Thanks for the picture, it looks good. By the way, you have a bolt missing from your tensioner. Best wishes RB

I agree with Crasher - look at the MAF. A VAG-COM session may tell you if it has failed completely, but the little tinkers can also just deteriorate without total failure and not give a VAG-COM message. Best wishes RB

There used to be a sound clip somewhere on here. Can anyone find it? It's a fairly un-mistakeable clatter which has been likened to marbles being shaken in a biscuit tin. Best wishes RB

Do you mean the bit that goes into the underside of the dash, and then you put the pin/cap through it to lock? If so, how many do you need? 1 more, I assume. I have just bought a packet of ten(!!) so PM me and I'll drop a couple in an envelope for you. Best wishes RB

Hmmm.I wonder why he didn't tell you that the head was doubtful before he fitted it. Berst wishes RB

If there are smells and smoke coming from your brakes they must be binding well and truly, and their efficiency must have faded, not to mention what it is doing to the hydraulic fluid by being consistently over heated.I would say that this is the first port of call for your time, effort and money. It could be that one or both calipers are seized due to corrosion and/or a hardening of the main seal(s). Check that the calipers slide freely on the guide pins. If that's not the solution, change the seals which are available in a repair kit from VAG at about £10 per side; it's a fiddle but fairly basic. The main difficulty is getting the pistons out, and then back into the caliper. I have a pair of 280mm calipers in the garage which you could have if the problem is more serious. Or go the whole hog and put on a 288mm setup which is well worthwhile -(now you can understand why I have a spare set of 280mm calipers and carriers....), As others have said, the best solution for the stiff throttle is to fit a new cable. I have Dragon Green; a good paint shop will be able to match it and you'll never see the join. Best wishes RB

You may need to get the battery out of the way to get a socket onto the sensor. This will reset the ECU and it might run roughly for a while unless you can do basic settings. Use G12+ antifreeze from VAG. It's a flourescent pink colour and mixes with just about anything that will be in your system. But, given the time of year and the fact that you live in the frozen North, you might take the opportunity to drain the system, reverse flush it and refill with completely new coolant/antifreeze. Two bottles of G12+, about £12 in total. Best wishes RB

Thanks. Any tips on getting the fusebox out? Do I have to take the under-dash trays out first? Best wishes RB

Does it do it only while actually turning the wheel, or does it continue while you hold the wheel at or near full lock. If the latter, then it is probably the PAS hydraulics (pump, fluid, rack). Is the reservoir full with green (not red) fluid? Best wishes RB

The electrical connector on top of the fluid reservoir connects to the low fluid/handbrake warning red light on the dashboard and is nothing to do with the ABS system and should not effect the operation of the amber ABS warning light. If the reservoir warning light is coming on then the fluid is low, the float switch in the reservoir is faulty, the wiring is faulty or the position microswitch on the handbrake is faulty. The limited slip diff senses if one wheel is rotating faster than the other, for instance if one wheel is on a patch of ice and the other isn't. It uses the ABS system to do this at low speed, and applies the brake to the spinning wheel. But it won't prevent both wheels spinning if you accelerate too sharply - it only works as an LSD, not a traction control system. Best wishes RB

Thanks. Is the bush easily replaced once the starter has been removed? Best wishes RB

I just went over 200,000 so think how I feel! With proper maintenance, (and of course vast expense) you will get there too. Best wishes RB

My starter motor has been making strange graunching noises - it happens for one or two seconds after the engine has started and whilst the starter is slowing down once it has disengaged. So I have got hold of a second hand one with a view to replacing it. On the replacement is a label which goes on about replacing a bush. Does anyone know about these things? Is the bush on the starter motor itself (I can't see one) or is it buried in the flywheel/bell housing area? Also, are there any difficulties or necessary precautions associated with removing and replacing the starter motor? Best wishes RB