Jump to content

Roger Blassberg

Members
  • Content Count

    1,461
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Roger Blassberg

  1. On mine the rear screen heater is in the bottom row right with a blank next to it. Then next row up are front and rear foglights, then seat heaters. ABS light is at the top. A/C switches are next to the headlight switch. RB
  2. 36 psi is not inordinately high. Make sure though that you are not going up to 3.6 bar, which is 53 psi (it can be, and has been, done if you misread the scale on the gauge....) Best wishes RB
  3. The system goes through a test sequence at about 10mph when the car moves off from having switched on the ignition; you can feel this through the floor as a short (about a second or less) burst of vibration. Is this what you mean? If so, "they all do that, Sir". But obviously the light coming on needs further investigation. Best wishes RB
  4. The rotors usually come as part of the hub, I don't know whether they are available separately. You'll have to take the hub off to change the rotor anyway, so you'll end up having to change the front wheel bearing beacase it will almost certainly be destroyed when you press the hub out. I would be surprised if the ABS sensors are obsolete; look on ebay. Best wishes RB
  5. The speedometer drive is a black plastic sensor on the top of the gearbox, so that is the obvious home for your spare connector. RB
  6. Just to clarify, use the FINE grinding paste...... RB
  7. I have a 1990's Blaupunkt Gamma radio/tape/CD (actually in my Passat B4)which is misbehaving, not surprisingly after nearly 20 years of service. The front/rear fader sends no signal to the rear door speakers. The speakers and the cables are ok, there is a response if I flash a 9V battery through the relevant cabling from the radio-speaker connector block. Any suggestions or a recommendation to a reliable Blaupunkt repairer in Herts or North London? Thanks RB
  8. There will of course be provision for the connections to the rheostat /switch. The loom will have separate circuits for each seat as well, so it's a bit more complicated. I'll have a look in the Bentley later and see if I can find the definitive diagram. Best wishes RB
  9. If the relay is clicking, surely the steering wheel feed is working. RB
  10. The gearboxes that came from the factory with the ABF engine assume a 15" wheel diameter with 50% aspect ratio tyres.If you decide to go for different ratios, I have an ex B4 Passat 16V gearbox with very low 1/2/3, then a big gap to 4/5 sitting in the garage in St Albans. Best wishes RB
  11. 221k on mine. I had the head replaced with a factory exchange unit at 160k, and the chains etc at 205k. A bit of piston slap when cold, but the plugs are clean and there is very little oil consumption. It is not a quiet engine, but it goes very well and returns up to 35mpg driven sensibly. Best wishes RB
  12. It is, I believe, operated by the same relay as the front wipers. It's on the fuse/relay board, above the pedals. No 99 I seem to recall.
  13. I did the chains job on the driveway a while ago, so the gearbox can be done. It's easiest to do if you use an engine beam across the wings and a trolley jack to carry the weight of the gearbox. The most difficult bit is getting the gearbox lined up when putting it back in. Be careful, it's quite heavy and rather awkwardly shaped. It would be worthwhile doing the chains and clutch as well whist it is apart. Have you seen the step-by-step guide in the Knowledge Base? Best wishes RB
  14. Rainsport and Rainsport 2 , 205/50 R15 V have been my choice for years on my VR6 and B4 Passat. They are a bit noisy especially at the back, but the wet grip is good and they last well too. Mytyres seems to be the best supplier at a good price. They are pretty good in snow as well, but obviously not as good as proper winter tyres. Best wishes RB
  15. Another vote for tyres. Bearings will groan right from slow speeds and the note gets higher the faster you go even if there is no apparent end float RB
  16. All of the above, plus a complete flush through with new brake fluid, opening each bleed nipple in turn to get the fluid into the calipers and through the ABS pump and valves. I suggest that you take out the spark plugs and spin the engine on the starter first thing to get oil pressure into the crankshaft bearings and, crucially, into the top timing chain tensioner. You'll probably find that the brake discs are a bit ragged if you are in a humid climate, and wheel bearings may be in need of replacement if it has been standing on its wheels for 2 years. Otherwise it should be ok. RB
  17. O P is a novice when it comes to brakes. So it's worth stating that the coppergrease goes onto the back of the steel backing plateplate ONLY...........To be honest, unless you are absolutely sure what you are doing, leave brakes to the experts. You might be driving towards me tomorrow. Best wishes RB
  18. As David says the block is higher, in fact by 15mm if I remember correctly, so with an "early" bonnet you will almost certainly need to modify it a little. RB
  19. Can you be more specific about the non-return valve you bought from ebay please? Was there an item number for the valve? Thanks RB
  20. Ha ha. Well if you believe that you'll believe anything... I'm sure that someone with a better understanding of thermodynamics than mine will be along very shortly to explain the reasons why this cannot be. Just as an indication, the supercharger on my Jaguar needs at least 30kW to drive it at full chat. All that tiny little turbine can do whilst being driven by a 40 Watt motor is to get in the way of the airflow generated by the atmospheric pressure as the engine runs normally. I have searched briefly for the same advertiser offering nuclear fusion and another proposing an engine that runs on water. It's only a matter of time....
  21. If you haven't already, set ignition timimg, new plugs, HT leads, air filter, cam belt and tensioner and cam chain (gearbox end of the camshafts) to make sure that cam timing is spot on. Forget drilling the airbox, you will probably end up with warm air getting into the induction side and actually reducing power. Best wishes RB
  22. Mine has a label attached to the cam cover, immediately behind the fuel lines. Best wishes RB
  23. TRW is the successor to Girling/Lucas, so top quality. Best wishes RB
  24. It might be the tensioner bearing squeaking. Don't know about which make of belt, but the last one I bought was, I think, Continental. RB
×
×
  • Create New...