BigTartanJudge

Mine is 1992 J reg (March) but is late-spec bumpers, fogs / ind's and bonnet etc. Had early interior though, until I changed doorcards and switches for late-spec. Still got the early centre-console and associated switchgear though, apart from indicator and MFA/ wiper stalks.

Anyone have any contacts or know of companies that do this ?

I have seen 3 up here on the road and there is some guy on another forum selling one, and he hasn't even taken delivery of it yet.....

Look like Borbet B 9x16" all round with the flat centre-caps, nice car.

Hey all, I will be looking to get my corrado picked up from Scotland and delivered down south in the next few months to get a lot of work done on it. I seem to remember a couple of threads on this (I have done a search but can't find them) where people had done or were doing the same thing. Has anyone got any info or contact details for people or companies that specialise in this sort of service ? Cheers, BigTartanJudge

I feel I can offer some useful comments here, after all I worked for the biggest car rental company in the UK for over 4 years, who has a sports, prestige and executive arm. In short, I would pay be prepared to pay about £350 a weekend for an e46 M3 (thats 3-day weekend, midday Fri to midday Mon). It's not up-to-date now, but I didn't know of any other large companies that offered this as a hire car when it was newer, and there is no way, even today that you would be able to rent one of these for £100 for a weekend, not even a hope Tyler :lol: The going rate for a sports - exec car for a 3-day weekend ranges from £350-£650 depending on model, from the company I used to work for and thats for a less than year old car normally. Deposits are around £1k which I think is pretty fair. The arrangement normally is you leave a full deposit of whatever amount and this is the minimum cover. If you have an accident this deposit is kept and the balance is kept as a suriety, if damage is less than whatever deposit amount was, the customer gets balance back. If more than whatever cost of deposit was to fix, the customer forfeits the deposit and the owner of the car / hire company claims back the rest of the cost from their insurer. The customer is also normally able to reduce the size ofthe deposit down slightly by paying an extra premium. Also, it is normal standard practice to ask for a £75 fuel deposit. Both the customer and the hirer of the vehicle must go over the vehicle together and come to an agreement on pre-existing damage / condition of vehicle prior to hire commencing, so there can be no arguments when the vehicle is returned (I have seen this happen TIME AFTER TIME AFTER TIME) Minimum age for the cheapest car (a Mini Cooper S) was 25+ and the same age for Merc C220, E280, Jag X-Type, Audi A4, SAAB 9-3 Conv, Audi A3 conv. 30+ is the minimum age for TT-S, Audi A5, Range Rover, Audi Q7, SLK/CLK 350, XF, XJ, S-Class, ML, Porsche Boxster. Would I rag the ar5e off the car I was renting ? Well the cars were built to be driven and I would drive them hard, and the fact it is someone else's car would mean that I probably wouldn't be as gentle as I might be if the car was my own, however, I wouldn't be inclined to totally abuse it or drive carelessly or dangerously. Hope this is useful mate.

I have spoken to a few bodyshops recently and they all have said that the cost of doing resprays has gone up massively in the last few years basically due to the fact that the government banned solvent-based paints (European Product Directive baned solvent based paints from 01 January 2007 due to VOC content). So now all paint is water-based which is much more expensive to buy even at trade-cost, plus water-based paints do not give as good a finish and take longer to dry (roughly double that of solvent based paints). I remember when I had a full respray including colour-coding down on my CRX about 5 years ago and it cost me £1200 for a good job. Now your looking more like £2-£2.5k as mentioned above. However, a lot of the cost is also prep-work, and if you are willing to do this yourself with guidance from bodyshop, you could make a big saving here.

Had a set in the past, they look pretty cheap and a bit gash tbh, better off getting the dub-diesgin industries ones, far nicer and more substantial, although they are more expensive, unless you win them for a good price like I did on eBay..... :D

Morning :wink: Looks nice, and those RECARO's are pretty rare too,

:lol:

Not really.....the companies are only merging, Porsche is not taking over the VAG group

I have a few sets that need doing too.

Nice looking G60 mate, Wheels look quite jap-esque ?

Fitted new chrome interior door pulls and new VW Motorsport Votex leather gearknob along with MJ-trimmed blue alcantara gearshift gaitor.

Great progress mate, what's the specs of the 3 series touring, 330d ?

Check these out: and

All red crystals (prof. done) with reverse lights left for obvious reasons: Standard rears, half-tinted using CC of Canada guide:

Definetely Compo MO's, wanted a set in 16" for ages, but went for Borbet C's to use as my spares instead, whilst Porsche splits and BBS RS splits are getting refurbed. They will look really good, and yeah,dark gunmetal grey is the way forwards 8)

Hi Mike, I take it you got the seats ok in the end ?? Building a 16VG60 engine is by no means a cheap option and requires a lot of specialist bits to be collected or 16VG60 integration kit purchased (a popular method especially when these kits were still available from BahnBrenner and the exchange rate was good and Darren from G-Werks could get them - sadly, these kits are obsolete now) This kit basically supplied a lot of the necessary parts to convert a 16V lump, together with the 8V G60 lump into a 16VG60 engine, they are based in the USA but even with the customs duty added, as the $ was so weak back then, it was very good value). The 16VG60 integration kits went out of production in 2008, and they have no plans, as far as i know, to have their suppliers produce any more. However, don't worry, there are several other companies that do the 16VG60 integration kits, both in US and EU. If you use the 8V G60 as your base engine, it's a lot easier and you need less parts but you do new special forged, low compression pistons or Audi S2 ones. You will also need Scirocco 16V upper and lower intake manifolds (very difficult to find, and command a high price as they are so rare and most peeps know what you want them for so ask a high price!), or a modified Audi S2 intake manifold (easier to find and cheaper). If you use the 16V engine as base engine, you need a hell of a lot more parts and have to lower the compression ratio using a metal head gasket as far as i know. From BahnBrenner website: Build Option #1 (G60 As Your Base Engine): No matter what engine platform you start with as your base, the best way is to build up an engine with custom pistons and the correct compression ratio for this boosted application. If you want your base to be the G60 engine platform using the G60 block, rods and crank. You will have to use custom pistons with correctly cut value relief's and the right compression ratio for boost. BBM has these custom pistons in a limited quantity. Required 16V parts for G60 base engine: * Custom BBM low compression 16V pistons for use in the G60 block * 16V Cylinder head complete * 16V Scirocco Intake manifold lower and upper (or modified S2 intake manifold) * 16V Distributor, complete * 16V Distributor Block off plate complete * 16V oil pump, complete * 16V Secondary shaft and gears complete * 16V Timing belt and gears, complete * 16V Exhaust Manifold or 16V Header Build Option #2 (16V As Your Base Engine): If your starting base engine is the 16V platform then you can use a thicker copper head gasket to achieve a lower compression ratio for use with the boost. This is not the best or correct way to generate the proper compression ratio on any engine, although it is a simple and less expensive route. The preferred method on the 16V base engine is to also use custom pistons with the correct compression ratio for this Supercharged system. BBM has these custom pistons in a limited quantity. Required G60 parts for 16V base engine: * G60 G-Lader Supercharger or BBM Screw Compressor Supercharger kit * G60 G-Lader mounting brackets and belt tensioner complete * G-Lader outlet (silencer box) or BBM RSR outlet kit * G60 Serpentine / idler pulleys for water pump and alternator * G60 AC pump or European water pump pulley * G60 Throttle body, complete * G60 Fuel Injectors and FPR * G60 Idle stabilizer valve (ISV) * G60 Digifant1 ECU and engine wire harness * G60 Digifant control relay * G60 Oxygen sensor * G60 Water temperature sensor (blue) * G60 CO% potentiometer * G60 Relays, fuel pump * G60 Intercooler, IC hoses to and from the G-Lader * G60 Lower water pump pipe * Upper and lower coolant hoses * G60 Radiator and fan assembly You need S2, RS2 or custom pistons to lower the comp ratio, as when fitting the 16V head the placing a 16V head on an 8V G60 PG block lowers the CR approx 1.8 Points. Since the G60 engine already has a CR of 8:1 then dropping that CR 1.8:1 points lower will bring it to about 6.2:1,definitely too low for a 16V G60. Now for the conrods, you can use your stock/OEM PG G60 rods but it is recommended that you use PL 16V Rods + custom (or S2/RS2) pistons due to the fact that your rod ratio using the PG rods will be too short. Thicker metal head gaskets are used to lower the CR if you start with a 16V lump as base engine. Also, I think Audi S2/RS2 pistons drop straight in and are cheaper (about £80 each new, set of second-hand ones for about £100-£150) than getting custom ones (Wiseco, JE etc. - about £450-£500). Have also found another couple of sources for the 16VG60 integration kits (RP-tuning includes custom manifold and pipework) [these kits are VERY similar to the BahnBrenner kits, but are still in stock and readily available, and around the same price]: http://www.rp-motorsport.de/glader/16vg60-bausatz.htm http://www.slstuning.de/eng/g_lader/16vg60/index.php http://www.orz-motorsport.com/16VG60%20engine.html 16VG60 conversion guides (both very good) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1784212 http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread ... 212&page=7"] http://mysite.verizon.net/laurin99/g60.htm (NOT BAD, BUT PART NUMBERS ARE ALL VW MOTORSPORT ITEMS, SOME NOT AVAILABLE ANYMORE AND ALL VERY EXPENSIVE, BUT BASICS CORRECT) The best resource of info on how to build this engine is probably these guide above and the Yahoo discussion group which I suggest you join up for help: 16vg60 group on yahoo http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/16vG60 (FOUNTAIN OF KNOWLEGE) As far as manifolds go, it is easier to source and subsequently modify an Audi S2 inlet manifold (and I think it looks better when fitted, as doesn't encroach over the top of the 16V head), or you can buy a custom one (these are basically custom-built, CNC-machined copies of the Audi S2 intake anyways, with one runner cut-off and overall length shortened). There are several sources of these, including Roma Tuning, SLS-tuning, RP-Motorsport (mentioned above) etc. These are all I have seen being used in the over in Germany, Holland etc. It's also worth speaking to individuals on forums or companies (including a few on here who have built or had built for them 16VG60 engines and who now have them running) who have had experience of actually building these engines, as they will know the best soloutions, and which people at companies to direct you to to source parts and get better technical advice than I can offer. It would be worth contacting John Mitchell Racing http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk as he was one of the first to have a running 16VG60 in his corrdo and it was a beast. Also, contact Darren at G-Werks on this forum, based in West Sussex too, as they have been involved in a few 16VG60 build and can supply parts and offer advice and tuning capabilities etc. All the stuff I have posted is info I have collected over the years on building these engines when I was thinking about doing it, but I decided in the end to stay 8V G60 for now. This all said, the 16VG60 engine is still quite an original option for power, as there are not a huge amount around, so go for it I say ! Hope this helps answer some questions.

Anyone have one of these fitted ? Here is pics of my current set-up with the VWM gearstick that arrived today:

Does anyone have an alloy gearstick shaft sleeve fitted to their rado ? Are they easy to fit / how are they fitted (and do they fit properly) and where did you get it from etc. Pics would be great to see what it actually looks like fitted and in place. I already have the dave16V alloy surround and a new blue alcantara gear-gaitor fitted and have just bought a VW Motorsport Votex leather gearstick so was just wondering if this mod would finish this area all off or would it be better to give it a miss. Cheers, BigTartanJudge

Very nice, reminds me a lot of mine (apart from mine's not a 20VT) as similar-ish colour. I have had the rear of mine deseamed, debadged and towing eye removed. Had the front number-plate recess replaced with CC-mesh to allow airflow through to large FMIC.

Suposed it might have been, but would have been hard to get a match for the colour and wasn't willing to pay MJ-prices for doorcard retrim plus kinda wanted late-spec ones too. Just bought some late-spec chrome interior door-pulls too.

If it moves, kill it :snipersmile: :)

I ran 9x16" Borbet B's all round on my white G60 and they were ok, but I was running 205/40 all round and had arches all rolled.