_Matt_

He's wrongun alright. I cannot for the life of me see how the parts were broken, and ended up looking like late parts in my eyes may I add, given the packaging and they are not exactly easy to snap off like that. You'd have to use something like pliers to break them - if they were damaged in transit the whole package would have been crushed length ways and even then the flexibility of the entire moulding would have just bent with the packaging - i don't believe for a second it was done in transit thinking about it logically. So if that had happened then it would be obvious on delivery that the package was well battered and something might be up - which don't correlate with the 12 days he took to tell you.

I did wonder what that wardrobe door was all about. The tailgate you have is for a US spec car - not a bad move actually though - it means you can add a 3rd high level brake light and be seen more on the road.

That's interesting fender, recently found out the earlier roof moldings were different shaped at the ends and a different length also not listed on ETKA/Part diagrams also and this hinge issue could well be that. I have a spare early green coloured door in my garage will dig out it out for measuring.

It's that part I put in red - 1994 on there was a body change but not sure what "F" added to part number as well. There is something odd on what you're experiencing - Keyo will measure his early doors to help clear it up. Assume your car is broadly standard, no known accident damage?

That is odd I have not heard of that. I have just checked part numbers on a 1989 car vs a 1995 car and they are coming up as the same part number. The parts diagrams can be wrong on early cars, missing early versions of parts but not normally on a late car. Are you able to get measurements on top and bottom hinges on your car? Attached a couple of pics of mine to help

Good to hear it sold quickly and was a pain free experience. I did have a quick look back to page one. My god - hats off well done.

Hi, the part no for your injectors in the 9a 2.0 16v is 035133551F. A set of 4 has gone up to £150 since I last looked: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-FOR-VW-4X-BOSCH-FUEL-INJECTOR-0437502043-/373946944932?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Not many people realise but when testing the kjet in these cars you have to lift the flap/disc ontop of the airbox, under the intake boot to simulate vacuum pressure to allow fuel to flow from the metering head (also above airbox). If this isn't done it looks like fuel isn't making it to the injectors. Also E10 fuel is very bad for these cars if you leave them sitting. I had a 9a I put e10 in, left it a few months and had similar problems to you. There were little crystal like deposits on the injectors which blocked 3 of them. An alternative rather than buying new injectors would be to get them cleaned and flow tested but I would guess the labour is about the same as buying new. Assuming the garage you're using may not know the way kjet operates it might be worth you requesting they flow test each injector - it is possible to do this on car with each injector put into little jars. The disc in the metering head (under air intake boot on top of airbox) must be lifted by hand. This is what happens when the car runs under vacuum - the disc/flap lifts slightly to allow fuel to flow from metering headto injectors. This is also why vac leaks on kjet cars can cause you havoc. It is worth finding a garage that specialises in kjet to save you grief. The general garage on the street just doesn't have the knowledge to deal with it. Kjet is simple and relatively cheap to fix but if you're a mechanic from the "computer says replace sensor era" you will struggle and feel like your car has a major issue when it does not. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Its likely to be blocked fuel injectors but most general garages don't understand the cars. If you have fuel to the metering head it's not going to anything further back in the system. Ideally fuel system needs pressure testing but I would ask for the injectors to be changed- 80 quid for 4. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Opps sorry I didn't see this - have just replied.

Looking lovely. As you know I am doing the same job on my mk2 16v too but sans the pro alloy housing. Thanks for getting me the clips, they look good 😄 Pro Alloy housing is a great bit of kit but too rich for my pockets today.

God this brings back memories of my drive home from the bodyshop - awful creaking noise from the windscreen area and CRACK straight down the middle on the way home. Lucky for me I got a replacement for free. The chap that did apparently had done loads of them for the local VW garage when the cars were newer but clearly had forgotten the knack. He said he put a support/rubber/something or other right at the point it cracked. It has been a really enjoyable ownership experience. I try to keep my head straight though, it's not the car it's the people working on it.

Bodywork can be a nightmare and once you start you go past he point of no return if stuff isn't quite right. I've learnt to make sure at least the lower sections of the car are taken back to metal and to only use restoration specialists. Place I had it done was a refinisher/painter/smart repair who had done old cars and I had looked at them in the flesh but clearly was only any good at painting over long lasting repairs. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Probably some elements of the recent respray / bodywork done. Paint is nice but I'm not happy with the drivers 3/4. The body shop didn't repair the fuel filler door area correctly and the door sits proud & they didn't bare metal the arch lip and there is rust coming back. I supplied two arch cuts to go in if needed but they tossed them in the bin and said mine were fine. It's booked in to a proper fabrication resto place in about 15 months time (waiting list). I have a new 3/4 from Classic parts to go in as needed and they will be basically bare metalling both sides on the lower sections and sills, making any repairs and I expect repainting the sides. It will cost me the same the again as I paid for the first respray. I look forward to posting the progress on my instagram account where the original bodyshop follows me 🙂

I get you on the paint stuff and equally for me damage of fogs and lights I don't want to fork out to replace. I cracked an indicator on my first proper drive out a month ago. I'm going to see how this year goes for usage and may consider selling mine if I don't start using it more.

Great colour and pretty rare. Lovely golden fleck. The only black id want. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Looks nice and I don't mind the wheels tbh - they look period correct and easy to clean. Is it black magic met black or solid black? R32 sounds a nice future plan

The non-res or the Car for sale!?! Hope the exhaust

Welcome, equally love the 8v. Hardly anything to go wrong and will save you no end of hassle and headaches and plently fast enough for exploiting the car on a B road.

Sounds good to me

I love a high mileage hero car - great results on the MOT show the effort you put in and you must drive with mechanical sympathy - well done.

Where abouts in Hertfordshire? Me too. Happy to give you hand or have a look etc if helpful. I am north Herts/border of Cambridgeshire Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Very sensible approach. I wouldn't recommend dipping into any life/family investments or the golden 6 month cash in the bank to restore one though - investments will perform their value today 10 fold over a lifetime vs restoring a Corrado and eating into other family budgets will create resentment and rifts in families! Just my view to keep it all balanced and under control.

I know the costs because I've done it on mine over 4 years. It still needs more work sadly the bodyshop didn't get one of the repairs quite right. That is half the battle - finding decent people to do work you can't. The more you do yourself the more you save. I gave up trying to justify mine to myself and wife. She still raises any eye brow and it does come up in arguments... made worse since she hates Corrados - I know divorce material right there. At the end of the day it is a hobby and I take great satisfaction saving a car for the breakers yard and getting it as good as I can. My Corrado would have been scraped if it wasn't in my hands. I do sometimes look at my spend list and mark up items that are just maintenance to bring the overall cost down - brakes, bushes, suspension, sensors and then I go all man maths and knock of modifications such as wheels, exhaust, cams, remap as they were just nice to have. Basically I get back to the true cost of restoration and that is welding, fabrication, panels and paint. Looking at it that way you're in for 5-15k depending how serious things are. An engine build is mainteance really once something has done 150-200k but personally I'd rather have a higher mile car with rebuilt engine and restored body than a 80k motor with restored body and have to pay the premium for low mileage. Different if you're just doing it to sell but I don't want to sell mine. I may not make much sense but it keeps the demons away from my mind at least. I want to restore a G60 next and also have mk2 16v and mk3 16v at varying degrees of completion (75% & 90% respectfullly to my standard, which isn't as high as some). Yeah it costs, but if you had a modern equivalent leased car for a decade you'd probably spend more doing that have not have an appreciating asset in your hands at the end of it.

Nice piece of analysis. However I think you'll always be out of pocket if you restore one. Full Paint + bare metal + welding on the lower sections is going to cost you £7500-9000. If you can get away with just the sides then 4-5k Underside restoration could be £2-6k depending what is needed. All new running gear - bearings, brakes, shocks, bushes is going to be 2500 + fitting 150k + corrado VR6s are are borrowed time so factor in an engine rebuild - £4k You're basically looking at £15k - £25k to restore one + buy it. Paint + fabrication is the killer. There was a great green rado with 190k on it that had a bare metal job up for £10k. That would be have been a clever buy. Edit - if looking for one to restore find one with recaros or at least black leather. Cloth will pin it back value wise. Mileage is a bother to people who don't understand what restoration means so probably best to err on the side of caution and go for a low mile car (that ironically will need almost the same work anyway).

Welcome ask away and enjoy Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk