_Matt_

Sounds good to me

I love a high mileage hero car - great results on the MOT show the effort you put in and you must drive with mechanical sympathy - well done.

Where abouts in Hertfordshire? Me too. Happy to give you hand or have a look etc if helpful. I am north Herts/border of Cambridgeshire Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Very sensible approach. I wouldn't recommend dipping into any life/family investments or the golden 6 month cash in the bank to restore one though - investments will perform their value today 10 fold over a lifetime vs restoring a Corrado and eating into other family budgets will create resentment and rifts in families! Just my view to keep it all balanced and under control.

I know the costs because I've done it on mine over 4 years. It still needs more work sadly the bodyshop didn't get one of the repairs quite right. That is half the battle - finding decent people to do work you can't. The more you do yourself the more you save. I gave up trying to justify mine to myself and wife. She still raises any eye brow and it does come up in arguments... made worse since she hates Corrados - I know divorce material right there. At the end of the day it is a hobby and I take great satisfaction saving a car for the breakers yard and getting it as good as I can. My Corrado would have been scraped if it wasn't in my hands. I do sometimes look at my spend list and mark up items that are just maintenance to bring the overall cost down - brakes, bushes, suspension, sensors and then I go all man maths and knock of modifications such as wheels, exhaust, cams, remap as they were just nice to have. Basically I get back to the true cost of restoration and that is welding, fabrication, panels and paint. Looking at it that way you're in for 5-15k depending how serious things are. An engine build is mainteance really once something has done 150-200k but personally I'd rather have a higher mile car with rebuilt engine and restored body than a 80k motor with restored body and have to pay the premium for low mileage. Different if you're just doing it to sell but I don't want to sell mine. I may not make much sense but it keeps the demons away from my mind at least. I want to restore a G60 next and also have mk2 16v and mk3 16v at varying degrees of completion (75% & 90% respectfullly to my standard, which isn't as high as some). Yeah it costs, but if you had a modern equivalent leased car for a decade you'd probably spend more doing that have not have an appreciating asset in your hands at the end of it.

Nice piece of analysis. However I think you'll always be out of pocket if you restore one. Full Paint + bare metal + welding on the lower sections is going to cost you £7500-9000. If you can get away with just the sides then 4-5k Underside restoration could be £2-6k depending what is needed. All new running gear - bearings, brakes, shocks, bushes is going to be 2500 + fitting 150k + corrado VR6s are are borrowed time so factor in an engine rebuild - £4k You're basically looking at £15k - £25k to restore one + buy it. Paint + fabrication is the killer. There was a great green rado with 190k on it that had a bare metal job up for £10k. That would be have been a clever buy. Edit - if looking for one to restore find one with recaros or at least black leather. Cloth will pin it back value wise. Mileage is a bother to people who don't understand what restoration means so probably best to err on the side of caution and go for a low mile car (that ironically will need almost the same work anyway).

Welcome ask away and enjoy Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Haha fair play we're all different. Appreciate your honesty. I think we should be more honest - here's one from me - a bit "hubnut" but I really like base spec or low spec cars. Of course I've bought the sporty versions but give me a Corrado 16v with cloth seats, A 1.3l Golf L wihtout rev counter, Vauxhall Carlton GL on it's shiny hubcaps, Corsa "Merit" with its silver steel wheels and I'm equally as impressed at seeing one today as I am a VR6 Corrado etc. Infact I am more interested in that sort of stuff than unobtainium cars.

Hi have 7x16s on the car with 205 45 16 tyres - similar diameter for speedo compared to 205 50 15. The 15s are more comfortable by a noticeable amount. The 16s are not uncomfortable though and fine for daily duties. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Nice update, you're right about the handbrake should have been leather. Tell us more about the port matching - is it a dremmel job? Do you go to the edge of the gasket line? Interesting Airbag on your glovebox - does that mean you don't get a glovebox? Not seen that before. Looking forward to hearing about the engine when you get it back.

Have you lifted the flap in the metering head - i forget what it is called, the part i have circled in red. It's the movement in this flap that opens the channels to distribute the fuel from the metering head to the injectors. There are some very knowledgeable chaps on kjet on clubgti - rubjonny for example.

Yes my one of those exploaded when the car was in the Bodyshop and gave them all a shock - they were too scared to even turn the engine on fearing some mechanical failure. I chatted to Vince at the time and he said it can be a sign of the crank sensor failing - no joke that actually happened 2 weeks later when i got the car home - no crank signal on VCDS on cranking and the car would not start. I replaced it with a used part and bought another as a spare rather than delete.

Just to add i also had a new fuel pump installed when it was at Stealth with the other work so it could even have been that? The car was also remapped to suit cams. Lots done so very difficult to narrow it down now. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

No but the MAF did later fail 2 or so years later after the bodyshop. They had the airbox off and I assume ran it with the dust etc and destroyed it. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Prior to my engine work - just chains, head refuribishment and refreshed injectors - I was having an issue with warm starts. It would crank and crank and when it did it would cough slowly into life. I changed loads of sensors - coolant, cam and crank, the relays, I installed a 1 way valve on the fuel line, changed the FPR, new coil pack, new HT lines. Nothing solved the problem. Yet when I got back from Stealth (they did the engine work) it has been perfect ever since. Difficult to conclude what it was. I had my chains done becuase there was a noticeable vibration at idle every 2 or 3 seconds and I was worried. My chains were stretched and my tensioner battererd. I have considered the warm start issue might have related to tolerences in the engine due to the chain stretch but I don't know really.

Lets see some winter dirt pics 😄 Nice to see one used daily. Do you ever worry about a minor impact like a wing or a headlight (or fog) going or do you have those in stock.

Ouch but good you've fixed it already. You must be coming up to another MOT again soon - what's the mileage now and any more pics of the car? It looks to be holding up nicer (axle aside) on the last picture. Is it a 1.8t if I remember correctly? Edit to add - such a shame all the pictures and history have gone from the threads.

That's another seller Keyo, the other chaps is still listed at £2500. Chris Benton is a clever chappy - if a Shrick is worth £1250-1500 normally he is adding £250-500 to the price on the back of the other listed for silly money.

I would be interested in part ex-ing my nice front black leathers for the Recaros if you did want to do a deal and make the car more compatible on it's value. PM me if and when

What is the budget? There is a fairly reasonably priced one in your preferred colour, r32 engine and recaro seats I dont like the wheels but otherwise tidy car. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202106254237449?atmobcid=soc3 Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

If this works for the mk2 golf as well I will take 2 looms. Id also be interested in the bits Keyo is adding if Zak would consider adding to all looms as an upgrade? If not I'll just take the standard jobby :) Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thread resurrection - where can I get one of these Kurzy looms? Will iit work on a mk2 and mk3 as well?

Wow Chris those fog light glasses are the holy grail for worrysome stone chip damage ruining the front end. Must admit I sometimes think twice about driving it because of unabtainable spares and I hate the hella covers. How much are they?

I bought a 20litre petrol can recently - makes the job easier for the projects at home. I think the thinking behind a full tank when stored up is becuase fuel is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air. If you fill the tank there is less air to absorb moisture from. Diesel is worse than petrol. Not sure what the added deal is with ethanol within the fuel too but I could see a situation where even premium E5 fuel becomes contaminated over a winter layup if the tank is not full.

Ditto I got it off Amazon. Also if parking it up it's good idea to have a full tank as it limits the air space available for condensation to occur