Baz2004

If your 16V is more than 12-13 yrs old then yes they will be much better than what's on it, they look the business also. :lol:

You'll prob need to take off the alternator to do this job it gives you more room to work. You'll have to remove the power steering belt also which can be tricky to get back on.

OK found the problem at the weekend came at the end of a 12 hour day on the car brought much relief. Turned out to be a broken switch (Thermotime switch) after trying new ISv and cold start valves and taking off and putting on 2 different inlet manifolds + throttle bodies as well as changing fuel injectors + lines to mention a few things I was beginning to loose faith then I found the loose wire and clip by chance when I went hunting for a Allen key dropped when fitting the cold start valve. The minute I touched the clip off the switch the engine settled back down to 900 rpm – sweet J broke the circuit and she jumped up to 3000 - problem solved, made my day that was for sure.

I found a truck/tractor torque wrench usually does the job, would need to have some weight behind it but no chance of it breaking doing the job.

Could be a timing problem, when was the belt last replaced? try adjusting the throttle body a bit to allow more air flow and see if it stabilises. I don't suppose you changed inlet manifolds recently? I've heard of similar probs from people who have put 50m manifolds on.

Did you get a new thermostat with the replacement W-pump?

nice 1 thanks ;) did u get them pics?

Anyone know is the water pump on the 16V the same asthe one on the G60? Is the one on the mrk 2 16V golf the same as the corrado 16V?

Its this bolt with the hole that attaches the banjos to the callipers that I need* 2, I can get braded lines made up locally if I can source these bolts, do the C&R lines come with these bolts? would they be on the existing rear callipers by any chance?

Do the C&R / Goodridge hoses come with the banjo on them? do I need a separate bolt to attach the banjos to the callipers? (looks like I need a bolt with a hole to pass the brake fluid into the calliper from the banjo) Would ordinary mrk iv pipes do the job?

The spoiler control module was updated on the late spec Corrados, I saw on vortex there is some mods people make to them to move the spoiler at lower speeds etc Might be worth picking up a late spec one from someone breaking a late C.

ill disconnect the ISV and tomorrow and see what happens, already tried the pedal don’t think that sticking.

The cable is actually slack hasn’t been replaced recently, its quite loud alright but noise it the last thing im worried about ! Was getting nowhere adjusting the ISV either, seems to start and idle Ok when started from cold start. Don’t notice it climbing to 3000+ when left idle either.

My 16V is idling at 35000rpm starts Ok and sits around 1100 after a few mins any throttling and it shoots up to 3500 and does not return.. I checked the throttle body and it seems fine, could this be a problem with the injector housing as I replaced a couple of lines recently? There seems to be a build up of pressure also in the water I recently replaced expansion cap, I thought that might be due to an airlock can this in any way cause the problem?

Do you have any oil leaks? What about your oil cooler? Did you check your water pump? Rubber seals may appear ok to look at but you wont know for sure by looking, try and get a cap off another VW and try it. .

Was she oily? Look on the bright side she's good for another 100k with the head done provided you look after it. Head work is never money wasted the car will drive better/smoother and be more economical, be sure and get a new expansion cap all the same last thing you want is to cook the new gasket!

I agree your better off getting the complete wishbone + bushes its a time consuming job replacing them you'd be another couple of hours burning/hacking the old ones out and fitting the new ones in.

You could also replace expansion cap, Ive heard the rubber seal can go on these breaking the airlock causing water to leak out the overflow. Its more than likely your stat but it would be worth while taking off the water pump also to make sure its in order. Also while you have that off check for any blockages in the pipes leading to and from the rad + pump keep an eye for oily coolant cus that's a sure sign that you may need the head done..

After jacking up the hub/front shocks with the jack they went in fine was just a matter of getting them level – Not easy doing it if they’re not going in at a horizontal angle.

Yeah more and more people are coming back to me saying this could be the problem. Ill be ordering both pump + stat as well this week just in case, might as well since I have them off. Its very easy for this seal to get damaged if the car was boiling over at any stage, I had trouble with BOILING water in the past before I got the headwork done which lead to the seal getting damaged and subsequently lost.. Hopfully my problems will be solved by the weekend.

Cheers Dennis one of the lads over here had that same problem with his 16V mrk 2. Thinking back I remember the cap was off quite a bit and I may have lost the O ring. Im just wondering how the overflow bottle works cus there seems to be a hole in it at the back for water to pour out when the level rises too much if its supposed to be sealed how does this work? My water doesn’t come out the cap just this overflow hole. Ill be getting a new cap for sure anyhow.

Can anyone tell me are the wishbones on the corrado (early 16V) sided? Got a couple of new bones from GSF last week and I’m not sure if they are the right ones they look like 2 left ones but I was told the rados were not sided. Been beating the sh1t out of one of them trying to get it in on the right side and it just wont go in. I’m just wondering do I need to get hardcore on it or are these things sided?

Was looking at it yesterday, cant figure out what’s causing the problem. I checked all the pipes and they all seem to get warm. Checked the internal fan in the car, it could be better but its not too bad. I got a hose and put water up into the pipe leading to the internal rad and it ran out fine no blockage. I took out the water pump and stat, the pump looked ok as did the stat, I tried it again in hot water and it seemed to open fine could have closed a bit better tho. I’m going to replace both pump and stat this week and hopefully that will solve things. I’m just hoping the rad is not phucked. I’m not keen on buying a new rad on the chance that it MIGHT be the problem, Can anyone tell me what way the water circulates in the 16Vs, what direction and sequence does it circulate?

The water thermostat is down near the water pump I remember distinctly taking it out and putting it in boiling water when I had it to make sure it opened up. It was closing fine also Im just hoping I put in back correctly, Ill be checking the temp of the pipes for sure. Ive got a good concentration of coolant in the water also which might be keeping the temp low causing the stat to remain closed.

I was thinking about the thermostat alright how would that cause the problem? The water doesn’t appear to be boiling over? Ill be looking at it in more detail tomorrow & ill give it a work over for any trapped air im thinking it should have all come out at this stage though.