Baz2004

60mm drop are they 16s?

I’ve heard of people welding the front mount on their track cars for this reason. No matter what mount they use the bolts always give out, poly cross member bushes can last longer but may increase the problem with more vibration.

Does anyone have a pic of an empty engine bay with all the mounts in? I presume a VR/G60 set will fit a 16V?

What’s involved in fitting them? i.e is it possible to do without stripping the engine/exhaust manifold?

Looking for advice and places to get a decent front engine mount for my 16V.

:lol: If they are decent ones they can be resealed and reconditioned. How old are they?

what’s blown on your coilovers? are they leaking?

I had a similar problem on my valver, when I inspected the wishbones + ball joints I found one side was fairly worn and most of the bushes were worn out. I replaced both track rod ends the anti roll bar bushes and the ball joints and its seemed to solve things.

Does anyone know if its possible to use 280mm disks on 16V calipers & carriers? Will 16V pads work with the G60 calipers? Anyone know how much longer the lines are on the G60s?

Depends on the track I know if its a small windy track the 8Vs are a bit better compared to the 1.8 16V with standard cams. The 2L 8V mrk 2 engine is a good track engine also with the right cams it can be a good runner. As your prob know it all depends on your budget if you’re cutting it tight then there’s little point in starting jobs that you may not have the budget for. (Head work + suspensions don’t come cheap) If your planning a transplant then perhaps a 1.8T might be a better option, again this really depends on your budget but its a straight forward way to get nice power. In the long run it can work out the same price as doing extensive work on 8/16V engines. It really depends on how much your thinking of getting into it, if its just for occasional fun or more frequent competition use.

Respect the effort its just like the TVRs inside, I love those TVR steering wheels. Looking well very impressive :thumb right:

Are they 17s? I have the same set on my valver, great looking wheels they really suit the corrado. what drop is on your car ? 40mm? What rubber did you go with?

Id hold onto those sebrings if you do get new wheels, you never know when you might need them + you can always put them back on if your selling down the line. I’ve had the same troubles with my 16V (as im sure many on here have) Im almost at the end of the major jobs (Engine + suspension rebuilds) and it’s a good feeling seeing it all come together bit by bit. What brakes did you go with g60s? Did you do the rears?

Does anyone have a pic of this car? Im really after one for my old man he had one in the 70s and always goes on about its subtle style and excellent drivability. E30 M3 Evo if your looking for handling E36 M3 evo if your looking for pace. others perhaps TT? Evo 6? Sti? Audi Quattro Ur? 16VG60 syncro mrk 2? Corrado storm, Clio sport 172, Williams Clio? Williams Renault 5? Brabus E190, 106 gti? Fto? fiat coupe 20VTurbo. Lancia Delta Integrale, skyline turbo, escort cossie, to mention a few.

yeah was really expecting to see an early valver on there, id say they will do another short piece on retro coupes at some stage plenty to choose from in the early 90s - with a slightly bigger budget perhaps 3k you might see a G60 up against a Calibra and an Fto now that would be entertainment.

:scratch: 2-3 track day’s a yr and not really bollocking it around at that.

I just measured the pads I bought they are 2mm thick I’m guessing the mrk 3 rear pads are the same? they have the smae model nos in GSF?

I was comparing both sets of pads at the weekend and the mrk iv ones are way thicker that the original rears on the corrado. Has anyone fitted the mrk iv brakes without this problem? Where would I get a set of these G2/G3 pads?

Has anyone fit the S2 calipers and carriers to their corrado? how effective are they to the G60 setup ? Has anyone modified them to fit 280mm disks ?

Is this the best stuff to use on valvers? Would it be good for mild track use?

Must be the grade of coolant Im using, I was putting in a good concentrated mix in my valver when i had head trouble, it seemed to keep things a tad cooler, although I was topping it up every week or so. I also found replacing the oil cooler on my valver helped get the oil temp back under 120. Don’t know if this would be the same in the 8V as it seemed to be a valver issue.

Sounds like an avg night out in Dublin :silly: :drinking:

30mm socket will do the job be careful if you don’t have the oil filter drained you’ll get your shoes painted a dirty shade of brown! The oil temp sender is at the back of the mounting the switch at the front is the pressure switch as far as i remember. Might be worth going with a more concentrated ratio on the coolant 1:1 perhaps esp if your having heat problems.

Could try and add more concentration of coolant but if it wasn’t causing trouble before (coolant was added) then I don’t think this will solve things. You may need to check your water pipes for blockages and your stat and water pump impeller.

I heard the 2.0 8V box is a nice short shifter for the 1.8 16V. I’ve seen good results on a mrk 2 16V with the G60 box, there’s a nice low end punch, it goes a bit flat over the 110 mark but sure its not wise to be pushing over 110 to often anyhow. The 1.8 8V mrk 2 gti box is another alternative as would the 8V mrk 3 Gti box.