Baz2004

I would take the “if its not broke don’t fix it” approach on this one - If you’re happy with them I wouldn’t bother changing, 16V brakes with good pads have adequate stopping power for any standard valver. Having compared the pads on both 16V and g60s I can say there is little difference in terms of size, the main benefit would be in using the bigger disks. A set of braded lines and xdrilled disks might make a slight improvement if that’s what your after, but I would be more inclined to upgrade the rears (mrk 3/4) first before the front as they can be problematic.

Nice ;)

It depends on what springs/struts you use rather than the drop, for example some cars with 20-30mm drop on crap springs can have a very harsh ride over cars with 50-60mm drop on decent springs/struts (H&R etc) Nice car 60m drop looks like a good drop to go for. :)

Here is a couple I can think of http://www.thecorrado.com/enphotosmeeting.html http://www.corrado-club.ca/main.html

Ah right I should have figured there is no need to keep the tension on the cable when the piston winds back in. :roll: Ill adjust the handbrake cable with the handle fully released, my new fronts are on now so ill be testing the pedal action pretty soon. :)

Nice motor apart from the styling any pics of the engine bay? Id say its uuuber quick :)

Yeah I mentioned doing this; it seemed to make a difference alright well a difference between having no brakes and having a handbrake of some sort. Did you tighten the handbrake cable on that Golf? If so how/why was the cable loose if the calipers were knackered surly the cable would have been tight to keep the pistons out?

:thumb right:

C&R sell the carriers for around 200 quid, or convert to Mk3 calipers for around 370. Details & prices are in the Brake Conversions section. http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk/

Do you have mrk iv carriers? Perhaps the VR carriers are different or perhaps my 16V had different carriers? I was pretty sure the mrk iv pads I have wouldn’t go in the carriers, im keen to find out how they feel at the pedal. My handbrake come up alot more than it used to did anyone else have this happen with the mrk iv calipers? I think it may be pad specific as I just checked the listings for the pagids I have and they are down for the mrk 2, 3 and 4 !

Does anyone have a part number on the 1.8 16V calipers & carriers. CNZ2 150512 9231 ?

Mrk iv pads are a different shape to the mrk 2/3 pads

My rear pads were shot anyway, but it would have been handy to use the mrk iv pads as there was plenty of meat on them + save on buying new ones.

Perhaps Mr Creswell can shed some light on the situation. I did notice pulling up the handbrake a few times helped bring in the pistons. my handbrake is almost vertical at this stage tho.

Just checked there with GSf and the pads I got (mrk 3 rears) are the same GSF model no as the ones for the corrado (64601A) ?? :scratch: I haven’t been able to test the pedal yet but I may have the wrong pads, As I mentioned I couldn’t get the mrk iv pads in the carriers.

I already tried fitting the mrk iv pads but they wouldn’t fit with the 16V carriers.

Yeah I heard that also or you can get spacing plates for your 16V carriers. You’d be better off getting G60 calipers while your at it, you can pick them up with carriers for under £100 they are a straight swoop and with a set of braded lines give better pedal feel.

I forgot to mention I got new wheel bearings (kit) while I was at it, its not vital on the newer cars - my valver is 16 yrs old.

Yeah the calipers can be pricy to buy new, I managed to get a pair off a chap who was upgrading his TDi Broa with Skoda RS brakes, I went to GSF for the disks & pads and I ordered the plates from VW which are around £25. The hose kit is around £24 from C&R I still have a spare set of VW passat lines & banjo bolts that will do the job if anyone’s thinking of the upgrade.

Was a genuine enquiry as it wouldn’t be evident from looking at them, I had trouble in the past with high idle speeds even with a leaned mix, I was considering new injectors having replaced my fuel lines at the time but found a broken idle control switch was the cause of my problems.

Off the top of my head it worked out around £120 that’s getting the calipers second hand and the braded kit from C+R. I considered xdrilled disks but at £35 each I left it, would have only been for aesthetic purposes anyhow as Im not pushing huge power. The new plates are a must for any older pre 92 cars as most ones Ive seen tend to be on the brown side :)

Im still keeping in real in the corrado I still got the tape deck in there :) I keep the Mp3DVDs for the everyday runaround. Got a lot of ol skool hip hop tapes for the 90s retro feel PE & RUN DMC (Down with the king) BBoys + LL Eric B 7 Rakim Gangstarr/ Lord finesse ICE Cube/ Geto Boyz NIce & Smooth Snoop, Dre & 2PAC Plenty of timbaland + missy Paris/ BeatNuts NAS Some ol skool R&B in there also Jodeci/ Rkelly Mary J/ Aaliyah Keithsweat/ Joe Horace Brown/ lucy pearl Lynden David Hall other classic stuff I bring out from time to time when in the mood. Hendrix/ Led zeplin Lenny Kravitz/ Marvin Gaye The Stones/ The kinks Bob Dylan/ Clapton stevie wonder/ Inxs

How was this evident? Very true I never liked how my 1.8 ran with this mod lost its bite + noise at low end. Id say the 4 branch might counter this effect but you’d be better off with the 42 or Tbs if you wanted to modify the intake.

Noting should be causing pressure unless your running hot or not getting proper circulation. Might be worth investing in a samco kit if your old water pipes are getting rubbery.

Is this in your VR or 16 valver? If its in the valver might be worth checking the stat, are you getting hot air in the cabin heater soon after restart? Do you get any cold air from the fan?