oxfordpaul

I'm not sure about the handbrake cable, don't think it was disconnected? I'll mention this to him, cheers.

Hi all, I've just had my rear axle bushes renewed but also had to have the brake compensator valve replaced as the nuts were seized. Problem is now the pedal has a lot more travel before the brakes bite. The mechanic has bled 4 times and hasd done the abs pump and the master cylinder but still not right. He said he hadn't connected up the compensator so it was fully open when bleeding. The system he used to bleed was a pressurised system using a compressor to force fluid into the reservoir (the compressor had a pipe with the exact cap to screw onto the reservoir). Could thios have damaged the master cylinder or is there just some wierd knack to bleeding the whole thing? He replaced the front hoses a few weeks back with no problem so I think it's to do with the compensator. HELP!

I've got 100 VWX which I like as it's dateless and has the VW bit in it. I'm not a fan of mis spacing the letters though or plates that are trying to be something they're not e.g VRG for VR6!

Weekends for me too, had a garage built this year so not been out in the rain since Feb! Still manage to rack up about 3,000 miles in a year as I can't resist taking it out when it's dry.

Really! Where did you find that? is it standard or Recaro?

Bojmobile, don't do it!! I want to keep the rarity! As Dukest says I waited years to find aqua with cream and i love it. I've never seen another with standard cream leather in Aqua Blue, they normally seem to be Recaros (which I'd like!). I think it looks great but each to their own, I know a lot of people prefer black but cream is definately very rare...

I recently bought and installed a new aux pump and fan controller (the later type) and my aux pump works as described above, i.e. when ign on and when after run fans on. The reason for the new controller was to solve the fans not cutting in till 105 but that mystery remains unsolved - I've had new stat and thermoswitch too but have decided to get the switch changed under VW warranty as there's nothing elese that affects the temp at which the fans come I am told?

Mine is s2795, what do they go up to in the final year I wonder? Mine was registered Oct 95 so a few more I'm sure.

I've had this problem and bought a new switch. However i remember reading on here that it's just something to do with the contacts oxidising in the switch and if you prise apart and cleant them it''ll all work again. maybe try a search - you'll find the post somewhere.

bump

Update! I've bought a new fan controller and it's made no difference to the temp at which the fans come on. In fact, the fans work exactly the same whether the controller is plugged in or not. However, one thing that does now work is the aux pump after the engine is switched off. It used to only work with the ignition but now it stays on after the engine is switched off (this was when it was hot, about 100 degrees). HOWEVER, the fans did not come on, only the aux pump. I thought they were supposed to run at the same time as the run-on circuit? Therefore does this again point to my speed 1 not working? Also when buying the controller they also showed me a relay that is part of the fan speed circuit. Does anyone know if this controls speed 1 and 2? Or have I simply got a duff rad switch, faulty guage or dodgy fans that are seizing up and therefore not working with the 6v supplied for speed 1?

I had a similar problem. It was the brake pedal position sensor. This is plugged in to the servo in the engine bay. The servo is attached to the bulkhead behind the steering wheel as you look at it. The sensor has wires coming off a plugf at the base of the servo. This is on a VR6, I presume 16v will be the same... Initially my garage changed a sensor under the drivers footwell - this is not the correct one.

Hi, the fuses all look fine in the fan controller module. The aux pump does work and I've just discovered it shouldn't stay on after the negine is shut down unless the coolant is 107 degrees or more so that may explain that. So I'm still stuck on one question - does anything other than the rad switch affect the on or off nature of the fans? If not then i must have a faulty switch (even though it's new) or a faulty guage (but I doubt this as it reads a perfect 90 when travelling at speed).

Hi Crasher, no aircon. also have just tried bridging the terminals again with a plain piece of wire rather than my bulb screwdriver and the low speed works! so the cuurent for the bulb must have sapped the power instead? Anyhow I did this with the fan controller totally disconnected and the fans still ran (speed 1 only). Therefore does the controller have any effect on speed one and if so what? I reconnected all and let it run to temp. The fan cuts in just after 93 or so but only for a few seconds and then stops. The guage continues to rise to about 106 and then they cut in again but it sounds like the same speed as the first time. They then cut in and out but the temp stays at just under 110. Also I noticed that my aux pump is on with the ignition but off when the ignition is off even if the engine is hot - I thought it was supposed to run on for a few minutes? Does the fan controller run this part too?

Bump, please anyone?

Cheers guys, finally it sounds as though we may have a solution. I'm really disappointed that APS didn't think to do this when they had the clutch out though as I'm now going to have to incure more labour to get this sorted. I presume then the clutch itself is fine to stay, I'll just change the slave cylinder and get the grease applied.

Hi Jon, funnily enough your car was at Stealth when I had my Scrick done! I'm glad someone else knows what I'm on about! As you say it simply sounds like something needs oiling as it only happens when warm - surely if it were the clutch forks they'd creak all the time...

The clutch was changed at APS. I then went to Vince for my Schrick and he said I should demand the clutch be changed under warranty due to the creaking so APS did but as I say it's the same. It was a VAG one. Where is the spring on the pedal box? I might get the slave cylinder replaced anyway - would that create the snatching in 2nd?

How do you know if it's inside or not? It certainly is under the bonnet but I can't tell if it's external or not. As you say the clutch release bearing was replaced I was told and after I asked for a replacement under warranty I would have thought they would pay even more attention to this?

Hi, I thought I'd re-ignite my thread on this as the car is still doing it despite being on it's 2nd new clutch. It's silent when cold but creaks quite loudly when warm. It's quite embarrasing as you can hear it over the engine noise at idle outside the car - I've had a few VR's and none have done this. APS said it was the forks on the clutch but I don't see how it can be with this being the third clutch that has creaked? Also not sure if related but the change into 2nd gear and to some degree third is quite sharp, like a thud when the clutch takes up. Again I can't see how 3 clutches all behave the same? I've had all new engine mounts but still no change. Could the slave or master cylinders affect any of these things?

Hi all, I've read for hours the posts on here but haven't found the answer to my problem. The fans don't cut in till about 105 plus which is too late and I would say certainly stage 2. At about 100 the fans don't run unless I turn the engine off - then they cut in. I have tested the electrics and found the following:- 1. When bridging the wires for the thermoswitch I have found speed 2 works with the ignition on but not with it off. This is the red wire with the red and black wire. 2. Bridging the main feed (red wire) with the red/white (speed 1) wire makes the bulb light up on my tester with the ignition on and off but the fan does not run either with or without ignition. 3. Bridging the brown/red and brown/green (diagonal opposite) on yellow multiplug operates the fan at speed 1 with the ignition off as it should. So it's clear speed 1 works with the engine off but why won't it work with the engine on? PLEASE NOTE I've done all these tests with the engine cold. Is there another sensor somewhere that needs bridging to fool the thermoswitch wiring into thinking it's warm for the fans to run?

I can't vouch for the longevity of an engine that is thrashed from day one but I can say in my experience of a string of Rover company cars I used to have (worked at a dealership), everyone used to remark on how fast mine were compared to others - the secret remained mine but basically I used to thrash them from day one (but only once fully warmed up!). So what kev says makes sense.

Here's mine with 16" RX

I have a GSF PAS pump on mine. I've had it changed under GSF warranty as it was very noisy - the new one is no better and when i say noisy I mean really noisy! I'm told GSF supply reconditioned units. I'm now going to have to pay for the labour again to have an OE one fitted. I'm not sure whether this is just bad luck but I also bought new roof strips - one side from GPC in Luton and the other from VAG. THE GPC one was too narrow so the flange didn't cover the gap. I've since bought a VAG one for that side too. False economy in my experience to not use VAG.

The rubber grommet inside the tailgate (there's one at each corner covering the screw for the light cluster) fits perfectly...