Scruffythefirst

If you dont mind the fuel bills (you didn't seem to mind them with the C) a v6 omega makes a good tow car and cheap too (under 2k) very comfy and cheap to run. Second hand trailer shouldn't be much more than £800 either. And I think theres special deals for the saftey kit for the bimmer. I'll dig out the spreadsheet i made a while ago when i get home.

If it was my car i'd be taking the engine out and checking the shells, oil gallerys and fitting a new oil pump plus getting the head pressure tested. I wouldnt reccomend driving with the oil pressure light on either. Mind you its not a stage 3 cossie engine which isn't your daily transport

If it was my car i'd be taking the engine out and checking the shells, oil gallerys and fitting a new oil pump plus getting the head pressure tested. I wouldnt reccomend driving with the oil pressure light on either.

That wont work, he'd have to pay for the telegraph pole, emergency services, recovery plus he should get 5k+ settlement and the cars probably worth 3k in bits tops.

If its just over a weekend my dad wont mind - 2 or 3 weeks will probably be ok too. You've got space to store stuff so we'll strip as much as possible even if bits dont have buyers.

Rubbish, your saying that you do damage when you lift off the throttle (which is all engine braking is). Its a lot more gentle on drivetrain components than full throttle use, yeah if you downchange to 7krpm and dont use the brakes at all then you might increase the wear.... I suppose you dip the clutch when you lift off the throttle? No-ones mentioned the downside of huge discs and massive calipers yet and thats weight. Discs are bloody heavey and in the worst place you could possible think of for adding weight - rotating unsprung mass (mind you, big heavy wheels seem to be in fasion too)

Didn't sleep at all last night mate, thinking about what could have happened to you, what might happen to me when i get mine on the road. To make it all worse on my way to work this morning there was a car on its roof 50 feet into a field and another about 300 feet into the field. I got there just as the air ambulance was arriving. Gutted, just gutted. Get a bimmer and a big diesel and a trailer and lets go racing, drive at 30mph on the road everywhere.

Sounds possible that one of your waterways has corroded into an oil gallery, which would explain the oil pressure warnign light. How much oil is there in your coolant ?

Exactly, braking is always limited by the tyres, unless your on a track and you've cooked the brakes into submission.

So how do they get sufficient air fuel mix and atomisation? Turbulent inlet tract?

Can we wait untill i've finished mine please? I'd whoop everything even if its still running in :shock: well, if i could drive :(

Dinkus, shouldn't you be working like a posesed hamster on speed :roll:

The question is why do you want better brakes :shock: If your thrashing it so hard on the road that the pedal is going long, something either isn't right or you should be locked up (in prison ) If you're getting a long pedal on the track and the brakes are fading, then yes you want bigger brakes. If you dont like the feel of the brakes then they either need bleeding again or its the effect of the servo removing the feel. Bigger brakes may help a little but the biggest imprvement in feel will come from the increased (or decreased) piston area in the calipers and pad choice. Braided hoses should also help with feel of the brakes. However, if you want to look cool then bigger brakes are exactly what you need :evil: :twisted: :shock: :shock: :shock:

the stress raisers will be pretty much the same and the effectiveness of the dimples will be less on track than the full holes.

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Depends who you want them to look cool for. You average chav pikey might think standard size drilled discs are the mutts sausages but everyone who knows what the score is will not be particularly impressed. A set of 330mm drilled discs crammed under the wheels with 6 pot calipers and slick shot wheels will look a lot cooler, IMHO or you could just get of those crappy shark tooth things, look nice though, what with the rather large unswept area going rusty :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

probably why it has a gearbox Seem quite reasonable to me considering a cossie should have an oil change every 3k or so (esp if its tuned) with a little fettling 600bhp isnt too difficult from a 2lt cossie lump (9k rpm on standard bottom end) although I doubt you'd get a 3 year waranty with one. Vr6's are pretty lazy tbh considering you only get 190bhp from 3 litres.

VW? Tbh I dont do VW's so I havent a clue. Get OE bearings if I were you - there not something you want to break. Depending on the state of your crank you might need a regrind and oversize shells too.

Fill the petrol tank to the top otherwise you'll get condensation which is worse than gone off petrol. Petrol has a shelf life of several months anyway and it wont drop the ron enough to cause problems (unless your running very high boost / lean) If you worried about that put super unleaded in it when you leave it. Ideally leave the battery on an optimate trickle charger (attached to the car)

Full set of bearing shells - main and big ends full gasket set inc sump and headgasket depending on the state of the bores new rings or new rings AND pistons (if it needs a rebore) Machine shop work - rehone or rebore as required and a full engine balance is a good idea (pistons, rods, crank, front pulley, flywheel and clutch) big end bolts (get arp ones) You'll also need plastiguage, vernier calipers, and a good torque wrench. Plus anything that needs doing to the head - new valve guides / stem seals etc....

Well my car wouldnt start this morning or this evening. So instead of putting inlet manifold and steering column on the dax (lots of shiny stainless bolts from work :) ) I'm going to be tracing wiring in the fugging cold. And i'm tired. But at least my boss is a nice guy :shock: 8) See ya tommorow dude

Ask dinkus about camera mounts and cross bracing - ideally you need 2 supports clamping the camera in addition to the one bolted to the camera itself. I quit working there and cant remeber the make of the kit. Its the kippers fins :mrgreen:

Yeah you can hit that out - put a screwdriver or simmilar on it and give it a good tap. You should idealy replace them with new ones on reassembly. Then jack the hub up and gently tap the wishbone downwards and that should release the ball joint. Make sure you stop the jack from moving backwards when you jack up the hub as the spring will want to force the hub out and use a block of wood so you dont damage your wheel studs / disc.

Make sure you get a proffesional to lighten and rebalance it. The consequences of a disintergrating flywheel at 6000rpm doesnt bear thinking about. For best results get a light clutch too

Did you put the pulley back on the right way round so its not slipping off? is it seated properly - IIRC when i did dinkus' it was possible to seat the tensioner incorrectly